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HybridZ

Mike kZ

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Everything posted by Mike kZ

  1. That looks home made. Notice the battery hold down.
  2. Can you buy these barrel locks at a local store?
  3. Do a search for AC stuff, there has bean a lot of info on this subject. I have installed a Vintage Air system in my Z
  4. You're right they suck!! Mine don't lock right either!
  5. For an LT1 it should use a t56 from '93 to '97 with it's own belhousing. '93 t56s are rated at 400ft# of torque, and '94 to '97 are rated at 450ft#
  6. This sounds like your electric fan is not comming on until 210, once it comes on it drops back to 180. Did you check this?Don't run with out a t-stat on the street. The engine will run hotter because the radiator does not get a chance to cool the fluid.
  7. Any error codes comming up? Maybe it's just a bad oxygen sensor.
  8. **** man!, That's twice I fell for one of those!
  9. Man you are a mess aren't you! You will have a warrant against you, but if you turn yourself in to straighten things out, they may not re-arrest you.That all depends on the cop I guess. You will most likely be fined for not showing at your last court date though.What will happen in court, I'm not sure, I guess it depends if they take pitty on you.Good luck!!!!
  10. Alright!! congrats of a new hybridZ to the ranks!
  11. Congrats on your purchase! Enjoy the ride, I know I do!!!
  12. Most tanks fill at mid point up to just below the top of the tank. So when you fill up, the gas is all the way up the fill tube. Untill you use up that gas, yes the rubber hose is in gas 24/7, so you don't want to use a rad hose. Did you try using the same diameter exhaust pipe bent the way you need it? Then just use a short piece of fuel type rubber to connect it to the tank. When I moved my tank to the center of the rear, I used a small piece of exhaust pipe to fill the gap.
  13. I'm not using the charcoal canister, or the vent tank! I welded shut all the vent holes on my tank except one at the top of the tank facing the front of the car. I ran a vent hose from there to the inlet in the side of the filler tube near the top. I then drilled two small hole in the gas cap to vent it. So far this seams to work well.
  14. Funny you should mention this, I did this to myself. I haven't driven my '62 409 Impala for awhile. On Saturday I changed the plugs on the car and took it for a spin. I punched it through the gears and thought, what's wrong with this it feels so slow. I came home and took the Z out, and did the same thing, man what a difference! So much quicker, better handleing, and just easier to drive! There is nothing wrong with my Impala, I'm just used to a quicker car my 240Z!
  15. Do not connect your amp gauge wires to your volt meter! After you disconnect the the two heavy wires from the amp gauge, connect them together ( I bolted the two eyelets together) then rap it up with electric tape or what ever to make sure you have no bare wire sticking out. Now for your volt meter, all it needs is a good ground, and power from your fuse panel.
  16. What are your plans with the spare tire well? Why did you cut out the bottom only? If it was just because of rust, and you are not modifing your tank, I would weld a piece to the bottom hole and keep your spare tire well.
  17. I used a Street/Strip suspension made by Jeg's. They were called Jegster S/S Bars. They are a great suspension for cars with low ground clearances like the Z. Now here's the bad part, I haven't seen them advertised in the last 5 catalogues or so. I would call them and ask if they still build them at 1-800-345-4545. The old part number is 550-41001, $299.99 for the bars. Front mounts, track rod,shock mounts, were extra. So are the coil over shocks. P.S. instead of using the track rod as is, I shortened it and used it as a Panhard rod. It attaches on the top of the dif, on the passenger side, over to the drivers side of the frame. This holds the rear end more stable. I also tilted the top of the coil overs 10 degree inwards / . This will help the car handle better. My dif ( a shortened 12 bolt Chevy with moser axles, posi, 3:73 gers, and disc brakes)is I think 45" hub to hub, but I'm guessing. What I did was, first mount the tires on the rims I wanted. After removing the old IRS, I rolled the tires under the car to see how much to cut out of the floor. I then cut the wheel tubs down the middle, and removed what was left, but keep them you'll use them later. Next I bought some 2"x 2" square tubing for the rear frame. I cut out what ever old frame that was in the way and designed a new frame rail per side. I kept the cubby holes, but part of the frame goes into them. I connected the front part of the new frame to the stock part of the frame that the old IRS was attached to nearest the front of the car (the forward part where the rear A arm was attached too). The back part of the new frame was welded to the bumper frame, I also added some small sections from the new to what was left of the old frame. I also made some frame connectors out of 1 1/2 x 3" tubing to connect the front frame at the firewall to the same stock rear frame the new frame rails are welded too. These will be used for the front mounting point of the S/S bars. I made sure I had between 3/4 to 1" clearance between the tire and fender, and tire and frame. I made a small hump in the new frame over the dif for suspension clearance. You can see the floor is higher in some of the pics at my site. These are street/strip bars. "In street mode, the right bar functions as a torque arm, and the left bar is a suspension link. This allows both tires to stay on the ground during body lean while cornering, as well as prevents wheelhop and maintains traction under acceleration or uneven roads. In strip mode, both bars function as an easy to adjust ladder bar. The upper tube of a conventional ladder bar is not needed, thus providing maximum clearance. Jegsters S/S Rear Suspension Bars are universal in design and feature polyurethane bushings in the front mounting holes. Fully adjustable for wheelbase, pinion angle and preload on the rear, via a left/right hand treaded link. The left bar features an additional quick disconnect provision that changes the function from a ladder bar to a suspention link." All you have to do is install a large bolt in the left bar and they become ladder bars, it's pretty easy. The bars prevent the dif from rotating, along with the coil overs 550-41003 - S/S front mount brackets (for vehicles with ground clearance limitations) 550-41004 - S/S track rod w/polyurethane bushings. (I modified this to be a panhard bar, better for the street). Both of these were $69.99. For the coil overs I used the Pro/Series 2000 coil-over mount &shock kit from S&W Racecars 1-800-523-3353. I bought the deluxe 3 position 5" mounts with 12" 130# springs, part#40-223C-130 (these springs are for drag racing, but are too soft for the street. Since then I bought progressive 130/250# springs from Jeg's part# 122-12-130/250)or you can buy 200, or 250# springs from S&W Racecars. The price for the mount/shock kit is $259.95 . No I didn't have to cut behide the seats, in fact I left the stock cubby holes back there. My new frame partially goes through them. I'm running 295-50-15 tires on 15X10" rims
  18. This would be kind of hard to check, but it seams everyone here who took their windshield off has found rust holes under it.Me included. This is probably where the water is coming from that rusts the floors out.
  19. I have 295-15-50s on 10" rims, but to get it inside the stock rear quarter, I had to mini tub the wheel wells and add a shortened 12 bolt Chevy diff. You can use them with really wide flares.
  20. Too bad it's a photoshop image!
  21. If it's built by Mopar, and has Chevy components, it could be an AMC tranny. I think AMC used a Chevy bolt pattern.
  22. Yes, you're loosing pressure in the cooling system through the bad heater core. Now if you bypass the core (connect the two heater hoses together) and there isn't any other leaks, you should be able to drive the car. If it still over heats, there is another problem.
  23. Todd, I couldn't make the last meeting, but will probably go to the July meeting. I'm not a member yet, but I think I may join. A friend of mine has a 260Z w/327 and is a member, and I've seen other V8 Zs there. Also the Prez has a nice one, but only brings it when there is a show.
  24. Hey, Todd, where in Atlanta are you?
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