blueovalz

Impressive bit of work there. My mind is trying to comprehend what kind of boost this will provide, and expected performance. Any hints?

I am obviously biased toward the V8, even if I was doing it again. The shorter package (and in the SBF case, lighter and smaller) allowed me to be more creative in the bodywork.

Are you assembling the control arm part first (bolts and all). If so, leave the bolts out, assemble the rear first, then put the bolts through everything in the control arm last.

I've used the lexan for the rear (smaller than OEM size) window and side windows. It will scratch, but with descent care, and the used of moisture when cleaning it, it works fine. I've had them for going on 12 years (rear window has a slight grey tint to it) with no visibility problems.

Sorry, I was wrong. I moved the steel tube brake lines when I replaced them, and instead, terminated them just behind the bolt that holds the crossmember to the frame rails. Sorry for the mislead.

The same SS lines were used for both OEM and ZX calipers on mine.

Sharp looking wheels. Won't see too many of them around. Lots of spacers there (on your site) too. I liked the front rotor spacer idea. On the wheel spacers though, have you considered welding the two together to make one larger one? This would at least eliminate any looseness from developing between the two anyway.

Interesting marker light. Now if only they made, say, a BLUE oval (he he)

Scottie, Don't know if the filler is race legal or not. But I got tired of having to open the hatch every time I put gas in the car, and if I spilled a little, then the fumes were inside the car. I made the hatch when I made the rest of the body, so it is fiberglass. It uses the OEM hinges, but I use Dzues fasteners to hold the end down (this was originally race only, and was held on only with the fasteners, but I have since installed the hinges and removed all but 2 of the fasteners). The Lexan is pop riveted in, with a small thin bead of sealer applied first. The size was reduced on the window so that the Lexan would not get hot and sag on those hot summer days (the Lexan may not have done this anyway because of the convex shape when installed, but I did not want to take any chances). The total weight of the hatch is 19 lbs. It's not real light, but I was looking for strength and longevity along with a weight savings when I built it and did not want any future warping to take place. As it turned out the rear (IMHO) took on a different and better look with the smaller rear glass. The window sizing was done when I made the hatch originally; before Hydra got me thinking seriously about the filler idea. I could have gone further south with the filler, but I still have the spoiler to re-install after the paint job is finished, and I needed to be sure it would clear it.

I ran this combo for many years, but to be truely simple, the hub must be from a 240z (identified by the half moon cut-outs between the wheel studs on the outer circumference of the wheel flange). These hubs have a thinner flange which allows the calipers to be bolted on with only a minor spacer (about a .100" washer in general) required. Then with about .125" radius reduction on the rotor, you will be in good shape.

Finally finished the interior part of my fuel filler for my cell. Here is the assembly as seen when the hatch is opened up. Now the car is ready to paint (yeah, right, that's what I said before Hydra got me to thinking about this little project)

Tim, thanks for the pics. The work looks great, and glad to see the attention paid to the "unseen" parts too. Keep the pics coming.

Pardon my horrendous spelling and grammar (was repeatedly distracted)

The front SX suspension strut tube is more upright than the Z, plus the distance of the tower to the edge of the fender lip is much shorter. This would entail, again, the mandatory moving of the entire mounting points outward (lots of reinforcement and fabrication). The rear on the other hand would seem to be a much simpler approch of fabricating mounts further outboard a couple of inches to mount the SX rear assembly. This is prefaced with the comment that many other parts of the subframe may need to be modified first. If a 'Vette rear end can be put into a Z, then certainly an SX can to, which make one ask, why not put the 'Vetter rear end into the Z in the 1st place.

Can't answer any questions but can say it stayed my 289 street '66 Mustang in a street race many years ago. Surprisingly fast.

I would guess the simplest way would be to change strut tube angles (kingpin), with the additional lengthening of the control arms (this would seem to be the most painless way). A wider rear could be accomplished with the "insertion" of a wider entire rear assembly such as the 240sx, 300zx or the T-bird IRS, with their attending subframes.

Well, I've watched this string with fascination, being I have destroked my 302 (Ford, mind you) back to the 289 configuration, and Grumpy has probably put the entire string into crystal clear focus with his last post.

Plus think of all the advice you can pass on to the next member who has never done it.

Interesting reading (plug reading I mean). Especially with the limited amount of sleep I'm surviving on today.

Is that with or without the bow tie?

Thanks you guys. You all are too kind, or to blind. Either way, thanks again. Now on to our regularly scheduled program.

The later Z also had a better quarter panel lip weld the helped prevent water, thus rust on the lips. The later models are a little heavier too. Visually, of you plan on removing the bumpers, there will be no difference.

My L24 weighed 427lbs (complete motor).

Let me add that I too felt unworthy in many postings and appearances in shows and forums (and still do at times) many years ago when I first started. Sticking with the cause will allow you to grow and learn. And before long you too will have everbody fooled.

Hey guys, just a nerd here with an airfile. I more than anyone enjoy seeing any of our members work in the form of pictures. It provides ideas to others, gets the grey matter to wiggle around some, and can be a source for feedback. That's what this "family" of oodballs it all about. BTW,I can't see Tim's pictures, but it may be my firewall here at work. And I am at anybody's service for any advice, but I've been humbled quite so myself seeing what our other members are capable of. Just a small fish here.