blueovalz

The welding part is a unique idea, and it does avoid the need for any glasswork. The main advantage I saw for the creation of the fiberglass flange was to allow the part to be attached and removed with screws/bolts/rivets instead of bonding (I wanted to be able to repair/replace the part without destroying the bond).

The ring gear carrier from the earlier R200 may be a bolt in item, but the pinion (matching pinion) gear will ultimately prevent this from being an option. In short, no. You'll need to do your "work" in a higher transmission gear I suppose. BTW, and photo of the conversion?? I'm looking strongly at doing the same work.

We had a local "Dyno day" last weekend here in Little Rock, and 3 supercharged Cobras showed up (2 Cobras with the 5.0-one scroll type, one centrifugal, and a single 4.6L Cobra). The weakest of the three was 461 RWHP, and the strongest was 541 RWHP. I just slowly shrunk away as I watched this, thinking of my little ol' 300 RWHP. I think 18 lbs of boost was the highest being run.

That I had to put "DATSUN" across the top of the windshield to let everyone know what it was, is...well, you know.

What year F150 motor mounts, and do you have any photos of the engine mounts?

I used the "It's a Snap" on mine, and liked it. I think it lacks some of the finer details that Painless uses for specific applications, but for my situation, it was perfect.

Ditto on ZCARUT's advice. For a couple of years I always had a little oil vent out of the vent tube which kept the case greasy. I finally removed the fill plug, and watched about half a cup of oil drain out. I then realize too much oil was in the differential, so I then re-installed the plug, and never had an oilly differential from that time forward.

You may also want to check out: http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j59/Two40musclez/Two40MuscleZ/ which came from this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112221

Looks real good Van, and great to see the momentum build on this!

My final configuration was the use of the OEM steering arms using a 1/2" bolt (this was because the 5/8" bolt seemed to be a bit of overkill in regards to it as well as the rod end) BUT, I had a split tapered shim machined to clamp the 1/2" bolt into the tapered hole of the steering arm. It holds it so well that I must "pop" the end of the bolt with a hammer a couple of times in order to remove the bolt from the steering arm. I had it machined slightly longer than needed, and then ground the length down to where the shim was just slightly longer than the tapered hole so that the 1/2" bolt head and washers would squeeze (or crush) the spacer down into the gap between the bolt and the arm's tapered hole.

You won't be completely dismissed. This subject has been mentioned on this site a couple of times (SBC and SBF) before. I've got two SXs and with 210K on one of them, I am thinking about doing the same thing.

I am having difficulty visualizing the connection and adjustability between the tie-rod end, and the 5/8" bolt. Can you help me on this?

This is a great project, and hopefully should provide some small amount of useful information, but... I believe this ratio is inversely propotional rather than proportional. In other words a 1/25 scale model would need to have an airflow velocity of 25 times the full scale speed, not 1/25th of the full scale speed. Or, you could pressurize the air to 25 times the atmospheric pressure to reduce the flow velocity to a full scale speed. The purpose of this is to maintain the Reynolds number for the air flowing around the object being tested so that it realistically matches full scale characteristics. This is why a compromise must be made in wind tunnels between size and speed (or density). Otherwise, the smaller the model, the easier it would be to test, which is not the case. I realize this is splitting hairs perhaps, but this becomes very important in really small scale testing, which would apply in this case. __________________

I hope that others will chime in here as there are several different means of tackling the header/mounting/steering rod issue on the SBF swap, and one person's idea (mine in particular because I built my own headers) may not be the best. I've not found any long-tube headers that will work, plain and simple. They are either too tall (will drag the ground), or just won't fit the narrow confines once past the block. Block-huggers and shorties are the best option from what I've see, but even some of these may cause issues with the steering rod.

Gotcha! Never seen such an animal before.

Looking great! Can't wait to see some color, which begs me to ask, what color are you looking at?

I will purchase one, but my transfer of funds to PayPal is not expected to be completed until Monday, the 22nd. Will you hold a "L" out for me until I can pay for them Monday?

Great job! When you say "R180 6 bolt flanges", what exactly do you mean. I see two of your adapters have 4 bolt holes in it (I'm assuming this is for the companion flange?).

Removal of the backing plate is what most of us do, and I saw no effect of this with its removal.

Gland nut was alway my problem as well. It's the large nut (about 2 1/2" across) at the top of the strut housing that tightens down on the insert keeping it firmly in place withing the housing.

I do not believe you will have any acuracy thoughout the entire RPM range by simply adjusting the tach speed to actual engine speed at idle. There has been some discussion on the board about this before and I cannot remember if a resistor (shunt) was used to calibrate the tach or not.

Fiberglass to fiberglass it the best bond in this situation (be sure to rough up the bonding surfaces with some 40 grit (or similar) sandpaper to get best adhesion. 3M makes some great bonding compounds for attaching fiberglass or plastic parts to steel panels, and this may be what you want as well. As for using fiberglass to bond onto steel, it will look fine for a while, but you'll see cracks develop between the glass and metal within two years (probably less if the car sits in the weather much), which leads to rust, discoloration, and the whole notion of wondering if you should have done this in the first place.

The early 4 lug ones bolt right on ('84 maybe?)

I don't think it's anything anybody would want to copy. I had the '86 Supra rotors (12") machined to bolt onto the Z hub, and then modified the strut caliper ears to attach the Supra floaters. Nothing special, but they stop VERY well, and I've no longer found a really good reason any more to put the "better" 4 piston calipers on the car. Yes, some day I will do it anyway, but I really don't need to.

"soft and sensitive".... hmmm, sensitive implies (to me) that it will lock up the wheels very quickly with no modulation, but you're saying you must push hard on the pedal to stop the car. There are some strings from the past (search will help) about the reaction disc in the booster. You may want to investigate this if you're sure the air is completely out of the system. Several members have had bad master cylinders right out of the box (including me), and some have just simply not done the bleeding correctly (MC outward toward the wheels), and others have had the reaction disc slip out of place and fill into the diaphram chamber (easily fixed, but you'll need to find the string, being I've not had to do this and I did not pay real close attention to how it was done or fixed)