blueovalz

Well, you've just about verified what I already thought, which was about 75 lbs added when I swap to a 351w block. I am guessing the 350 is another 50 lbs on top of that.

Should this not be 405 lbs instead of 305 lbs?) Can I modify this to make the comparison of a 302 @ 405 lbs, and a 351 @ 470 lbs with same equipment (cast iron heads, aluminimum intake, flexplate, and same harmonic balancer)?? Were there any other differences in equipment on these blocks (exhaust manifolds, etc?) This if very important to me as I am conteplating such a swap.

Mickey Thompson has a pretty good selection, but if you've not already figured it out, they are more the "straight line" variety (very soft compounds as well).

I would love to have both the 302 and 351 Windsor motors in pieces to compare weights. I did not realize the difference between the two was 120lbs. I could see perhaps 20 lbs extra on the crank, and perhaps 50 extra with the block (if that much). Hmmm

Thank you for the weekly enlightenment. It was good for me!

wing (wink, wink)

From a negotiating/deception point of view, Pinks works. This is one show where a Yugo could beat a Z06 based upon negotiation skills, and the ability to sandbag and make it look good. Because of this, the "horsepower" factor has been replaced with "strategy, wisdom, and knowledge". Anybody going to a Pinks event had better have his tactical ducks all in a neat row!

Excellent!

The only reason I posted the above question was that I had 8" wheels (which would only be 1/2" wider on each side verses your wheels) with zero offset. I only had about 1/2" between the OEM strut tube (I had stock springs on it, but that should not make any difference in this case) and the wheel's rim. With 245/45ZR16 tires, I had a pinkie's width between the strut and the tire, and the fender and the tire. Being my wheels were so much closer to the strut than what the above photo shows yours to be, I was concerned that perhaps your wheels were spaced outward so much so that fender rub would occur. Perhaps my memory is not as good as I hoped!

And yes, the front and rear circuits are separate from each other. Air from one will not go into the other, but air in one will affect the feel of both systems.

What is the offset (or back-spacing on these wheels), or do you have a spacer between the wheel and the hub? In looking at the gap between the strut and the rim, it appears to my eye that the wheel may too far outboard, and I wonder if the outside lip (on a 7" wheel) and tire secton will clear the OEM fender lip. Are you using flares or aftermarket bodywork?

Not sure what I'm looking at. Is the top photo a rear strut photo of the tie-wrap prior to pushing it down onto the gland nut, or is it the position after the suspension was set and then jacked back up again? If I am seeing this correctly, you've got the front suspension (last photo) sitting on the stops Doesn't look promising in that for the suspension to be set at a usable range, you need to raise the front by at least 2" and the rear by perhaps 1" more. This is where sectioning the case, and using shorter inserts becomes applicable.

Could you use 8" springs to drop it two inches (but without going to a shorter insert (which would allow you to shorten the housing), you'd hit the bumpstop occationally)?

These will be mostly "tension" rods, correct? Does anybody know what the "pull through" force or potential is on the ball joints? I don't know the original application, but were they originally designed for tension, or were they more a compression unit.

I don't know. I've only experienced one single location of any cracking or tearing, and that was the front frame rails adjacent to the front sway bar mount (I was using a 1.125" bar on a 280). I always felt it was the overly large diameter of the bar, plus the heavier Z.

I personally do not agree with the comment that polyurethan bushings add enough stress to cause failure of any part other than possibly the T/C rod. Other than the T/C rod, there is no significantly weak area in the bushing retainers or arms.

I love my aluminum flywheel. What I noticed more than anything else was the quicker shifting. The RPMs drop off for the next shift much quicker.

These mounts really need to be tied together in a rigid manner unless these mounts are solidly bolted to the engine block (which does not appear to be the case). Rubber mounting onto these mounts would cause them to sag (or crack and tear the frame rails) eventually as the frame rails would try to twist. Solidly connecting them (either through a crossmember of some sort, or through the block itself) would eliminate this problem.

Yep, this is the single one thing done to the rear of the Z that helps it the most. Good Job!

Make sure we are all speaking with the same definition of "throw". The original question referenced "throw" to pedal travel (unless I misunderstood), but most folks reference "throw" to the end result at the slave cylinder piston travel.

The other day I was having my son take some sensitive measurements on the earth's rotation. By happen-stance, I took off up the street in the BlueOvalZ and when I came back, my son showed me evidence that I actually accelerated the rotation of the earth from the MASSIVE torque of my little ol' 2.87" stroke SMF! Was I surprised! I guess anything can happen in physics!

Well, it's a small cannon though

I tried doing this one time. Our local was very fortunate in having an old airport runway as a straight, which definately needed a balanced set of wheels and tires. It almost shook my teeth out.

Thanks Pete. All this time I thought the Super String Theory was the theoritical natural limit to the number of replies to a string (234 was supposed to be the previously determined limit), which was violated a long time ago on this tail lights string

Thanks for the photo and drawing!