blueovalz

The double MC provides front to rear biasing, and is not for pressure assistance. A double MC set-up would allow you to eliminate a brake bias regulator (proportioning valve) often used for the rear brakes.

I have a Uni-lite distributor with a coil, no iginition boxes or added circuitry, and this was with the engine running.

I have a simple coil/distributor set-up, but I get 12VDC on + side, and about 8-9 VDC on the distributor side with everything hot.

I've wondered this myself, but a couple of points made me decide on keeping the booster. First, a larger MC would aggrevate the situation in that the mechanical advantage would be decreased with a corresponding increase in MC bore (provided no change was made to the SC). You'll be losing not only the advantage of the booster itself, but also increasing the effort needed by using a larger MC. Second thought. Well, how about if I used a smaller MC, which would allow me to gain back some of the assist I lost by removing the booster? The problem with that was I did not have enough fluid transfer to push the larger pistons of the brake upgrade firmly against the rotor. I could have experimented to find a size that would provide this (right at the edge), but I wanted a margin for safety in case the system ever was compromised.

Personally, I don't care for it. I've seen other renderings (remember the orange concept a while back?) that looked more like the original that I loved, but this one misses the mark completely (kinda like the 350Z did). This one looks like a new DC product with a GM name.

What kind of driving are you planning on? I've done some marginal baffling on my home-designed, shop welded tank and it works fine (1 year + on street driving). It's not meant for extended right-hand turns on low fuel, but for the street, where one would be in and out of a corner fairly quickly, it seems to work fine. I simply surrounded the pick-up with a 3" by 3" square box (no top) about 6" tall, that extends to the bottom of the tank, but are not welded to the bottom of the tank (only welded to the sides. This allows fuel to move through the small slit or space between this box and the bottom of the tank. This flow is more than the engine requires, but slow enough that when I corner to the right (pick-up is on the left side of tank in the corner using no sump), the fuel takes some time to eventually flow out of this box. I followed up with that by bisecting the tank with again the same type of wall from front to back. Then I filled all of this with normal fuel cell foam. The pick-up is in a crease in the bottom of the tank defined by a nearly flat bottom with slight 20º crease to keep fuel flowing toward the pick-up. In this photo, the pick-up is on the far right side up toward the front (cannot see the pick-up hole from this view) Drawing of the side profile of the tank.

I had an 8", zero offset wheel with 245 wide tires on them, and only had about 3/8" between the section width and the springs and body sheetmetal (OEM body and springs). 8 1/2" with 25 mm offset would not work on the S30 with OEM springs, and I believe a coilover arrangement will be marginal with this 5 3/4" back spacing.

I had MRT make my wheels for my street 280Z many years ago. They could (and I assume still can) make any center section, and weld it to the shell (lots of widths available) at any point for any back spacing. They were a bit heavy (.090" shell, and .25" center section steel wheel) but they were worth the money (not expensive). http://www.mrt-wheels.com

Mike, This problem is really the main reason I started my latest project (930 cvs). I knew that sooner or later (and it's been a lot later than I ever expected) I'd need to rebuild my zxt shafts, BUT, I found no one that had two part numbers for left and right sides in their catalogs or inventory. On top of that, I couldn't find a source that would take my axles, and rebuild them exactly the as they sit now (left inner is swapped with the right inner joint to fit my carrier). I figured if I take the issue out of having to rely on someone else to do the work, it would get done correctly.

This was my experience as well. I lost several U-jointed shafts the first season, but I still have (until this month) the single, original set of ZXT shafts I put under the car over 15 years ago. Yes, I've got a little slack in them now, but the unusual situation with these ZXT shafts (for my backward gear carrier) caused me to want to try something new (930 joints).

I feel your pain Owen. It seems the folks that don't have the "purchased" showcars are the folks most impressed with what we do as a whole, and that's perfectly fine with me. When I get the thumbs-up from the 40 year old mother driving the pickup truck passing the Z (yes, I do get passed from time to time), or from the bearded biker, that means more to me than bling bling Bob and his 350Z which spends more time in the shop having stuff bolted on than it does on the road. Anytime I get into a discussion like this, I simply ask them to show me the nails (fingernails). That tells the whole story.

There has been a lot of discussion on this topic, and a search will provide more opinions than you will care to read. Here is one example: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102643&highlight=spacers

Great work! I almost wish I'd done this myself. Great idea!

Most V-8s, if installed as close to the firewall as practicable, will place at least the block, if not more, behind the front axle centerline. I've got the SBF in mine and the centers of the top of the strut towers lines up with the front of the block. This engine is about 1" forward of the firewall. The axle centerline is roughly 1" forward of that point (about 2" on my car as I've moved the axle forward) due to the caster. I believe the SBC has less waterpump and time chain volume up front than the Ford does.

hint, hint

You've listed all the ones I'm familiar with.

What Jon said. I leave mine loose as well. On my threaded adjusting rings (nuts), I've got two, that are separated by a large O-ring placed between them. When the spring height adjusment has been made using the top ring, the ring bottom ring is screwed up against the bottom of the top ring, which squeezes the O-ring against the threaded tube and against each ring. I locks it all in place very well (works much like a lock ring for a nut).

Great work and ideas showing here. Thanks for the string, and keep the photos coming in. I love to see things being made, created, fabricated...

I considered this same issue and chose NOT to remove any significant material on the two parallel braces for the seats. These distribute the weight of the driver more evenly on what I would call 'marginal' sheet floor pan. The type of seat will make a difference as well. Most racing seats have little padding in the seat bottom, which allows the driver to sit lower. Some of the fancier seats (and heavier) push the driver up higher.

This is exactly the method I will adopt as well for future tuning. A company that I've corresponded with will make them any length (other than their "standard" length of 37.5") for an additional $25 dollars. These splined bars are priced reasonably, but the arms are a little pricy (between $40 and $80 per arm).

The closest ones for the rear that I've found were front bars for the British cars (old MGs, Spitfires, etc). Even these need some slight work. The one that I used on the back of mine is a question mark now. I cannot remember for sure what the donor car was (I looked at sooooooooo many).

(pride swelling up inside me as a small tear begins to fall from my left eye). Looking good! And yes, these things are huge, but I was surprised by the fact that, aside from the adapter plates, there was no net increase in weight between these and the ZXT axles I used earlier. I thought about keeping with the metric hardware, but availability was better for the 7/16" studs I used to attach the companion flanges onto the plates, but I did use 10mm X 65mmw socket heads to attach the CVs to the plates. Thanks for the photos!! (Don't be like Mike) :mrgreen: Here are some final photos of my install. I also moved the differential over 7/8" to center it with the transmission output shaft, but the differential is sill higher than the tranny output shaft (but parallel). Then I made a Ron Tyler (RT) mount by tapping the 1/2" holes cast into the differential housing to a 9/16" NF thread, and attaching the RT mount to the differential via 9/16 NF bolts. Then I also attached an adapter plate to the bottom of the differential using the same methods (tapped and bolted). The machine shop charged me $25 to cut new grooves into the axles (to position the CVs perfectly) for the cir-clips and to cut off the remaining ends. Here is the RT mount with the crossmember mount. I did it this way so that I could remove the crossmember (to work on the suspension) without unbolting any of the RT mounting assembly. The RT mount in place (notice the tapped holes on the bottom of the differential. This is how I attached the top (RT mount) and bottom crossmember to the differential Here is the short side in the car (missing a few bolts, and the sway bar is positioned over the axle (it will be under the axle for final assembly) The neat thing is that I can put the axles in and out of the car without removing any stubs or companion flanges. Also, the adapter can be bolted to the companion flange and then this assembly can be bolted onto the stub axle. I did add about 4.5 lbs to the axles with this conversion, which was the weight of the adapter plates.

I've got a 157 tooth aluminum flywheel, but it is on a 289 and it's a Mcloed flywheel. I love it though, and would not ever replace it with a steel. I suppose the biggest advantage is the quicker reduction in engine speed for shifting when I let off the gas for the next shift. It allows for a fairly quick shift.

Using 3 bolts instead of the OEM 4 bolts to attach a bracket is acceptable. Simply remove enough material in the "ring" so that the bracket can be slipped onto the bearing carrier from the back side, but obviously this will require removing one of the mounting holes and the material around it. I've done this a 3 separate sets of rear caliper conversions, and even Ross' parts are 3 bolt designs.

I placed mine under the passenger side quarter window (street use). I can reach it from the driver's seat, but still have access to it from the other side of the car as well (I've got no windows either but I removed it from the window opening to just under the window on the inside of the car). I placed mine on the positive wire as the negative wire is grounded right off the battery in back. I don't use a key, so as soon as I buckle in, I turn the switch on and I'm hot.