blueovalz

Can't see it, even with a copy-&-paste with the properties.

Great pictures and explanation.

I figured it was about time for one of your fine photos. Even ol' Jesse hasn't come up with anything this odd.

Issues that make a coil-over set-ups desirable are 1) increased wheel back spacing for wide wheels and tires that would normally interfer with the larger diameter OEM springs 2) Ease with which spring rates and can be changed 3) Ease with which the ride height can be changed. Sectioning a strut tube is only recommended if you lower your Z enough that nomal suspension compliance causes the top of the strut tube to impact the bump stops. This would then be resolved by shortening the tube, which requires a shorter than OEM insert in the tube.

You could put the entire front brake assembly onto the Z, but it would require more work than simply using the 280ZX front calipers with the '84 300ZX rotors (these rotors are larger than the 280ZX rotors). Reason: the 300ZX rotor is large enough that you can remove about 1/4" off the diameter of the rotor (any brake shop can do this) and still bolt the 280ZX caliper onto the original Z caliper location. Using the smaller 280ZX rotors without modifications to the radial location of the caliper will result in only a portion of the ZX caliper brake pad making contact with the rotor face due to the smaller rotor diameter. All of this information is based on having the early (240) hubs which have a thinner flange, which allows minor work to fit the caliper over the rotor correctly (thin spacers or washers). The thicker 280Z hubs space the rotor too far inboard for an easy fit with the caliper mounted to the Z caliper mounting bosses. In the end, there are much easier and better ways to improve the Z brakes than the use of the 280ZX rotors.

Thanks Tim. I've always wanted to see one. Any chance of pics of how the driveshaft tube is attached to the engine?

Quite a bit of work there. Not long ago I say some photos of a professional installation of a 302 into a Focus with RWD as well.

A transaxle is the transmission and rear-end (differential) all encased into one single component midway between the driving axles (which in this case is the rear axle)

Un-installed, a collapsed lifter looks no different than any other lifter in the engine. It's ugly head only rears up when oil pressure, which is sufficient to pump up the good lifters, will not do so with the bad collapsed lifter. A new lifter can be placed into the bore. I've mixed and matched used lifters with used cams all my adult life, and have never wiped a single lobe as a result. But when I do this, I treat is as if it were a new cam and used a quality break-in lube on the lobe and lifter, and performed the usual cam break-in procedure that's used with brand new cams.

I'd think I could come up with something cute here, but this guy (Davis) is just too sad to work with. What a Bozo. What can I say. Clinton more or less pissed everybody off here in Arkansas, and then the voters re-elected him. Go figure.

Heat checking I believe will contribute to this very serious problem. This is usually the first thing I check when examining a flywheel before an install. I've never had a flywheel explode, but I did have a pressure plate explode. In that example, I was intentionally slipping the clutch on the holeshot in the hopes a smooth engagement on the first 30 or so feet to avoid breaking the tires loose in an old Mustang....Wrong! When that thing let loose it sounded like a plate glass window shattered all around me. One piece went through the hood, one punctured the header, and one ripped through the battery tray and battery. This was AFTER it left a 3" gap between the motor and the transmission (can we say "NO bellhousing?"). Fortunately for the Z, the flywheel is well forward of feet and toes and I feel safer if nothing but this.

Excellent material there Alan, Thanks

I used to race (slalom) my '65 fastback with ALL the Shelby suspension parts and suspension modifications. Then one day I drove a Z around the track and....., well, the motor that was in the Mustang is now the same one in the Z. Yes, setups may have been more optimal in the Z than in the Mustang, but the Z left quite an impression on me. I'd put my money on the Z.

Yes, I once again see a reason to keep my SX

The translation had something to do with speeding congressmen and stop signs?? Anybody have any idea what he's talking about 8)

Ah now, it just a diamond in the rough. Something a lot of compression and heat would refine The creator of this vehicle may one day be a future design artist for _____ (fill in the choice of your favorite car builder).

Dang, you huffers and puffers are a tough crowd Please let me walk out of this netherworld intact and I promise I'll not return

silly me

Great work. I'm probably missing something here, so I'll ask; with such deep backspacing on these wheels, how will the spring/shock assembly be incorporated into this swap. It appears that the wheels will interfer (and not by a small amount) with the shock.

I believe the vast majority of those with lowered bodies have the smaller diameter coil-over arrangements, and thereby have the spring perch at, or below, the section width of the tire. Swapping the taller, for the shorter rubber mounts help in some cases (280 vs 240 top rubber) on unmodified strut assemblies.

Ummmm, it seems every post so far has been been using a stuffer. Any NA V8 times out there?

This is why I avoid at all cost telling them what I'm trying to do (with my "Supra rotors on my Z") with the part. I had one guy not even bother getting a part simply because he "knew" the fit was impossible. Its amazing how close minded some people can be. On the other side of the coin, I do have to give praise to the Hwy 5 "pick and pull" because the 3 brothers that run this place are always helpful, anticipating another story of how "this" part is being modified for "that" application.

I was going to say my ST rear bar (7/8") did not have this middle bend in it either, but after seeing the picture I just assumed my memory had gone south. I bought mine in '88 and it was straight throughout the twisting portion of the bar.

I believe the bar's arms will hit the control arms if done this way?