75280z

I will try and upload the video of my exhaust before and after the catalytic converter install. It definitely smells better. It is still too loud, so I will be adding a rear muffler. The whole rear part of my exhaust needs to be reworked it just doesn't fit quite right so I will be fixing it in the next couple months. My suspension parts came in I will probably start that project in the next few weeks. Videos of exhaust

Once again my Z is sitting dormant. I drove her off and on through the fall. I really enjoy driving this car. She is now hibernating for the winter. There will be many updates in the months to come here is what I have planned. For the next month or longer it isn't like I need her put together right away. - Tokico HPs (I ordered them they should be here Thursday 27 Jan 2011 hopefully. - Eibach Springs (Came with the HPs. - Poly Urethane Bushings. I already installed several of the front I am dreading the back ones. - Exhaust is way to loud I am going to be doing some work on the exhaust. I will take pictures before and after of my ride height. I will also try and take some before and after video of my exhaust. I am getting very excited I have been putting off suspension for a long time I am ready to start it.

Well it is time to update my tired suspension. I see suspension parts pop up from time to time for a 240z but seldom for a 280z. Hence this advert.I live in Aurora, Co. Wanted: A. 1 Set of 280Z Tokico Illuminas OR 1 Set of 280Z Tokico HP struts. - Condition: New or used but still in good condition. B. 1 Set of springs they can be any brand I just want a bit stiffer than stock. - Condition: New or used but still in good condition Trade: I have a IMSA 3 piece spoiler that I will gladly trade towards the suspension parts I posted above. It doesn't have mounting hardware. I can get you pictures on request it is in great shape. I check HybridZ almost daily and will respond quickly. Thank you for your time.

Tony D I am sad to see that even in 1989 [i am assuming it wasn't 1889 ] that they did the stupid body fat content and 'ideal' weight crap. I thought that was a newer developement, my feelings if you can pass the PT test and you aren't in a special job (Like being able to fit into a plane) that they should let people be! Also I am unfortunately not part of a club I do come out to the track day, mainly to see the other cars, and honestly I am planning on joining I just keep forgetting to. I am like stated above in the slightly above 25 range and have a wife and 3 kids, so when I am done with work I am usually at home with them.

I won't be tracking/driving/using my car for its intended purpose (Is that the correct term).

I have been getting excited for the track day I have been slowly replacing my bushings, and am actively looking for Shocks and Springs (I am trying to buy them here if I can for cheaper than new) I will definitely have my Z out at the track on Saturday, though I will not be racing. Next year I plan on having everything sorted so I can come to the track events.

Agreed Daniel's car is very very nice. Anyone going to the Ztrack day @ HPR on the Sept 10th?

Just like the title says looking for a gently used Megaview for MS1 is any one has one.

Alright a couple of updates. I picked up an IMSA 3 piece rear spoiler off craigslist, I doubt I will put it on anytime soon, but I have got it when I decide I want to. More importantly I got my polyurethane bushings in the mail today I think I am going to start switching some stuff out in the next few weeks. I probably wont get to the rear suspension until i get my new springs and shocks, and that won't be until I sell the 510. Pictures to come hopefully later today.

Just watched it on netflix, awesome movie. I watched it with my wife last night thanks for the tip

A couple months have gone by I built the SLC DIY and really liked it here is my review of the product. I also have driven the car quite a bit and worked out some bugs I still need to replace window felt and some of the other stuff. Now that my wideband is back in it I am concentrating on tuning the car again! I got my SLC DIY-1 back in February of 2011. I immediately opened it to make sure all the parts were there, they were. I then packaged it all back up and stored it until I could work on it. I ended up putting it together in March, but when I came back to it I found I ended up losing some of the molex pins when I contacted Alan he promptly sent me the replacement parts and at no charge which of course was not expected, but a very nice and definitely made me a more happy customer. The board looked to be good quality and the components were separated out by values. It was easy enough to solder all the parts on to the boards and the sockets make installing the IC’s much better than say putting them on the board themselves. That being said there were several locations where I wish the solder pads were just a bit further away from each other that way there is less worry of solder bridges, that however is just a very small gripe. When first put together the board didn’t work 100% due to the fact one trace had lifted and separated from a pad coming from Molex pin 5 once found a dab of solder to reconnect and the system worked flawlessly. The 4 Seven segment display is a great added feature and one of the main reasons I actually purchased the kit, I don’t have a dedicated AFR gauge and didn’t want to have to run with a netbook all the time in order to watch the value. That being said the display updates very fast so if you don’t have a very stable AFR you can tell. The display can be toggled to display things like oil pressure, RPM, AFR, Boost these are little things that can be added to make it a more feature rich unit. The SLC DIY1 has now been replaced by the SLC DIY2. If the SLC DIY-1 is any indication of the quality and features of the DIY2 (which come pre-built and tested) then I would say that I think this is a great alternative to the LC1 or even the more expensive MTX-L, with the added benefit of being a small DIY type company. The extra gauges and information it displays can be used in conjunction with Megaview or in place of a small netbook. I really liked this product and hope more people using MS give it a try as it works very well with it. All in all I think for all people wanting to have a more do it yourself wideband option this is the way to go, as well it will give you the option to have a gauge all you need to do is mount it where you can see it. Link to 14point7 as well as a vendor that offers good discounts here on the website. I try to not just sell products here, but I really do like this product and any one with Megasquirt or other things I would like to get the word out about these products. I will post pictures later. My link My link

I hate when posts aren't closed out for searchings sake it makes it much more difficult to find answers. I never was able to get the LC-1 to work properly, so I ended up finally installing the 14point7 controller and it interfaces very easily with Megasquirt.

you mean the bulge? I would look into taping it off after the rest of the car is painted

O2 sensor is sometimes to blame for failing gas mileage. I don't know about the 12% idle thing, the throttle position does seem a little weird.

People I know this seems trivial, this thread is 3 years old, I would have to say I don't think it is going anywhere. ... that being said I wouldn't mind one

I went through the wiring several times, as well as testing several different methods to see if I could get an output from the LC-1 all to no avail my analog output would never respond. I received my 14point7 DIY wideband controller in the mail today and will most likely be putting it together tomorrow. While my LC-1 has seen very little usage I bought it almost 4 years ago and it has pretty much been sitting as I have just finally got to a spot financially where I can regularly work on my car.

So a quick update, been a few months I am driving my 510 Wagon daily and it has been doing a good job, I just got my tax money back in the last few weeks, so I have set to work on the Z I am thinking about doing some autocross. It is high time this car stops being a garage queen and starts tearing up some tires and braking things because of use rather than just rotting away. What I have done lately. Replaced the weatherstripping with stripping out of a Kia Sportage. Replaced the intake tube going from the filter to the turbo connector While tuning my LC-1 gave up the ghost so I am in the process of ordering http://14point7.com/SLC-DIY.php to replace the LC-1 Order some vinyl decals from RTZ as well as some HybridZ stickers for the car. Ordered a battery tie down. To Do: Order/Replace window channel felt Build and install the new Wideband controller. Drive the car, maybe burn some tires off

I actually found my terminator plug (My garage was pretty unorganized). I flashed LC-1 with the newest firmware, and after several attempts LMworks now shows my gauge in open air as 20.6. That is somewhat good news; unfortunately I still am getting no usable voltage reading from Analog 1 or 2. A little earlier Analog 2 read about 4 volts, then it slowly decayed, that was before I got LMWorks working. Now that it is running I am seeing a steady correct reading in LMWorks, but no voltage on the Analog outputs. Also another thing that has me confused when I connect the calibration wire to ground it should cause the voltage from the calibration wire to ground to go to 0.00volts until calibration is complete (The LED turns off, then turns on when complete), however when I connect it to ground and observe the LED or measure the voltage from the wire to ground it stays a solid 5.00 volts it should be going to zero correct. Also the error codes continue to blink if there is one correct it isn't a once and done thing right? **Update, tried reprogramming the LC1 to give a flat 1volt output on either of the Analog outs it didn't do anything. SO here is what I am ordering, and I will be posting up a review mainly because there is free stuff if I do . http://14point7.com/SLC-DIY.php

The LED remains lit up it never blinks. Also when I ran the LC1 with no sensor, then plugged in a sensor it blinked while it warmed up that first time. Also I do have a serial to USB, I was reading and realized I could use that, but I don't have the terminator plug so it doesn't work it just stays on the trying to find device pop up.

Car- 75 280z, 1983 l28et, stock injectors, MSnS-e MS1-v3. LC-1 WB, Stock dizzy I just my car running again in the past week or so. So today I went out to do a little tinkering. Tuner Studio says there is an update so I updated, upon restart I noticed I was not getting a readable AFR it was sitting at 7.65 (0.00 volts). I thought that was weird went and checked on the wiring of my LC-1 I notice that the calibration wire is jammed under the relay box so after I get it out I figure maybe that was my problem. From what I can tell it isn't. Here are the problems I can see. 1. Brown Wire (Analog 2) is putting out no voltage - Should be 5 Volts 2. Yellow Wire (Analog 1) is also not putting out voltage 3. The calibration wire when I connect for 3 seconds my LED doesn't blink while doing an open air calibration, in fact it seems to do nothing I don't have a serial port on my computer so I can't run LM programmer. Has any one ever experienced this. It seems like my LC1 isn't outputing a voltage, The sensor is warming up so LC-1 is at least receiving power. I have 3 different sensors and I tried them all and I am stil not receiving an output. I am going to continue to look for an answer but any help would be appreciated.

Just wondering if this has gone anywhere?

The main draw back with this set up, is to bulky and hard to move around. I went ahead and built a second one that works with the AK Rocker 100. all it is is a stand that the wheel is on (when I get a wheel with pedals I will set those in there) and a hoop that sits under the rocker to keep it from rocking, so the rocker can be used anytime, and when the wheel stand is not in use I hang it on the wall in the garage. That set up weighs 10lb's less and separates to make for easier storage. it cost about 6 bucks in material if even. I will try and post up some pictures, have raced many hours in it, and while I love the idea of using a real car seat it is hard to lug that thing out to the garage all the time, the wifelikes the living room to stay clean.

Thank you for the information. It is doing a fine job holding me up, but for some bigger people I don't know if it would do as well. I played for a couple hours yesterday, and I really enjoyed it, I think I need to move the steering wheel down some, but this will be an evolving project over the next couple months. I would also say as much as I love the RX7 seat and it was free, I need to find a much lighter seat because I have to move this thing and all the extra weight from a seat makes it more difficult. then so I am going to try and still track down an old AK rocker.

SO it is done, that is until I get a better wheel set up, because then I will have pedals and can figure out how to mount them, after that I am going to paint the whole frame white. SO the total bill for the materials was ... less than 20 bucks because the seat was free. Unfortunately I didn't have the conduit bender so that was 40 bucks . So if any one needs to use the conduit bender and is in the denver area feel free to hit me up. So it looks a little crooked but when I sit in it I don't notice. If any one wants I can write a write up on how I built it, when I get the new wheel, I will most likely add a plate to the upper part to mount it as well as the set the pedals on. Things that could have made the hole thing go better a die grinder, and a seat that has a very flat bottom that way it is easier to mount. Enjoy