Sleeper-Z

Kevin, Although i'm sure you were trying to help... I already knew all that. And I made this thread to say what I have done wrong and how i was going to fix it. no offense taken. i planned for the 900-ish rpm idle and the 7500~ rpm redline. basically my goal was a 9-10 second car that is still "streetable". hel*, i even planned for the car not to idle and knew the parts were incompatible because the compression would be too low. just to eager to "get er' done!" BTW 350 block 248 at .050 200cc intake port "race" engine the truck is my daily driver and the trailer was coming it's okay though, i'm in texas, where 010 blocks go for $50. just have to get some drivetrain parts and i'm rolling. just not sure what direction i am going to do. complete the car and race, or give it up. kind of hard to do each, but school and money will be the defining factor.

i thought at first it was a vacuum leak but... replaced intake, billet base plate, metering blocks, gaskets, etc. i'll troubleshoot some more... although a full forged setup 383 sounds good to me, but i'll need about 3 months of pay since i'm a full-time student.

started her again last night and she won't idle. the only way is with a rag over the carb (makeshift choke). either than that there is no hope for an idle under 1800rpm. here's the basic setup: 60 over 9:1 pistons (9:1 with 72cc heads) 72cc dart pro1 200 heads (mild port) victor jr. intake (fully ported) 248/248 solid flat tappet cam 850cfm (probably flows around 860cfm) holley hp carb oh well, that's what i get for upgrading everything except for the pistons/rods/crank... hopefully in the next couple of month's ill build a 12:1 383 or maybe a 427 sbc. i have video but i need to find a way to get in on the computer and then find someone to host it for me... it does sound pretty wicked. thanks, steven m.

yeah, never use the bolt to tighten or ever use a hammer, even if it's a dead soft or mallet... your best hope is if it can be HeliCoiled...

real nice, and very fast on the restoration. good job.

not quite sure what you are talking about... maybe a fabbed up picture or somethign would help... although a supported MSA air dam or the like with the old gardeners lining under it should be sufficient..

kind of makes me want my fc again. over there in san antonio alamo has put out alot of fd's with 3 rotors, pretty neat stuff. how's your car going? haha i bought a new intake mani, carb spacer, and rebuilt the carb; just too busy and tired to do the swap! haven't even broke in the cam yet.

i've seen the car in the southwest alot. just saw it today at the meadows walgreens and seen it around alief frequently in the last couple of months... anyone know the owner? sweet car, nice exhaust note, sounds like a well tuned motor. steven m.

you should prime the carb before starting, not sure how it is on a mechanical fuel pump. but depress the gas pedal fully about 2-3 times before starting and try starting without getting on the pedal, that should help without waking up the neighborhood everytime you have to go somewhere.

olie05 if you ever go next time and see a 280zx if you could yank the weather stripping (if good condition) if it's a t-top i'll pay you for em'+compensation for time.

ehh... depends on taste... the th-350 is cheap, strong, and did i mention cheap? they'll take some good torque before building them up and some good torque after. i'm at about 3400 or so at 70 with 3.55 gear... all depends on gear and tires.

4 days minus wait on parts... then pulling it a week later and building everything right for months

i'd recommend a dual plane since you are building a relatively "stock" 350. you won't need the added gains of a single plane... or atleast you won't rev high enough to see enough gains with a single.

we do need to meet up. all of you guys are too far though! i'm in southwest, igors out in katy, chris, mike, and hickl are out by the woodlands. ahh hell, if everything goes well i need to break in my cam (300 miles) anyways.

what area are you in? 260zred... igor? this is steven, bought the centerlines from you a while back. -steven m.

good stuff

well, what seems like forever to me (just about a year), but probably a day for most of the people here... she's slowing waking up. billet baseplate, metering block, intake gasket, and various misc. should be coming in tomorow, and after i gasket match and port the manifold and spacer she should be able to see idle... (after i did the cam install there was a vacuum leak and couldn't get below 2000rpm, so i bought a new manifold + the above). already got the scatter shield and still need to get the cage cert. and fire suit. also thinking of squeezing some 26/8.5 et drags or 26/10.5 streets so i can make my first test pass after the cam gets broken in properly. on another note, i finally finished the body work on the right fender (shaved gas tank, new welded in rear quarter panel) and primered it for now, looking much better... now to fab a rear wing.... also got the front air dam from pete, and the headlight covers from mike. thanks, steven m.

can't find the one you like? fabricate one! or search until you find one...

i'm down! i'm here in the alief/sugar land area (about 15-30 mins from katy depending on traffic.) steven m.

your best bet is to either buy a new pan or make a plate, cover it, and weld it up. i wouldn't recommend JB weld though, it could work, but that could also be the reason it opened up again. sucks about all that royal purple. steven m.

not sure if it's been posted... but... 1)what rods did you use for the welding? or is it a flux-core mig. if they're rods i'd recomment a 6010 or 6011 followed by a 7018. also you might want to go thicker on the mounts, it kind of looks flimsy. 2)port/polish/knife-edge the throttle body. you'll get noticeably more throttle response. (might want to knife edge the butterflies as well). also removing the secondary set of butterflies/rod and block off the coolant passages will help greatly. forgot to add, remove the "pots" as well, it'll help with deceleration, unless you want the whole warm-up process. search "TB mod" on the rx7 forums and you'll find out what i'm talking about. nice swap! steven m.

new pics posted

i like the bracket work.

http://www.hotrodgossip.com http://www.htownracing.com http://www.houston-f-body.org just to name a few... definately stay away from edelbrock/carter... 650 SHOULD be good, but there's so many 750's out here in texas that go for cheap. post on the gossip and you'll definately get a reply, just don't tell em you got an import or you'll start hearing it. If you dont want a double-pumper, maybe you should consider an edelbrick. BUT double-pumpers aren't hard to tune at all.

good job on finding probably one of the most rustless unrestored z's! cheers