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Thumper

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Posts posted by Thumper

  1. Not sure where you were going with this response, but from my 1st post on this topic I was recommending the C5 Vette over the 99-00 Coupe, given the criteria. I'm sure a 996TT blows away all of the other cars you have known, but this isn’t a 996TT vs everyone else comparison. I only raised the Porsche costs into the mix as a contrary viewpoint to the one in which you compared BMW maintenance and modification costs to that of your Porsche and considered it “NUTSâ€. As I stated earlier, my experience with Cost of Ownership and modification on my 99-00 M Coupe (which is the exact car the OP was asking about) has been very good and apparently quite the opposite of yours. Perhaps I have some direct experience with Porsche’s as well?

     

    My apologies if listing Porsche prices offended you in some way. I'm certainly not trying to bash your decision to go after a 996TT. I'm simply trying to provide some 1st hand BMW M Coupe ownership experience to help in the OPs query. We can at least hope that this information proves useful in some way.

     

    Dave240z and Mikelly, I found both of your views informative. I think that you both raise valid points but seem to have some miscommunication on what the other person was trying to get across.

     

    One of the auto loan stimpulations is that the car needs to be an 02 or newer so a s52 bmw is out of the question. And being that a s54 M coupe or m3 is as expensive or more than a z06 (talking about initial cost) and I would rather have a z06 over a M coupe if prices were equal I will be getting a z06. I have ordered one from a dealer in Cali and it should be here next week. It is an 02' Blue with 50k miles on it. I'll post up when it arrives. Thanks for the input.

  2. glad to see your ok Ted!

     

    sorry to hear about the accident!

     

    You go through more cars then I go through new underwear.. *erm wait.. that reminds me*

     

    ughm.. anyway! thats a tough call! Z06 or BMW M series?! I say Z06 purely for one reason.. raw brutal horsepower.. in addition COST OF MAINTENACE!

     

    BMW's will be hell on the wallet over the years and fixing parts, while Chevy's are cheap man!

     

    Yeah i'm glad I got away with no lasting effects. But if I hadn't pulled myself forward off of the seat then I would have had no bumps or strains.

     

    About the underwear umm yeah I try to change it alteast everytime I do an oil change or get a new car.:ass: This was my first true at fault accident I've ever had. I say true because my mr2 caught fire about 4yrs ago. Other than that one person did a hit and run on me and someone backed into my parked car. I guess i've been halfway lucky.

     

    Damn I just counted up all my cars and i've had 14 cars in 9yrs of driving. Thats not including cars I've bought and sold for a profit. Sheesh yeah i'm an addict and my name's Ted... Hi! Ted

     

    Well I think I will be more happy with the z06 so thats what I will get. I found one within my price range and in color I want Blue (I wanted blue or black) The only downside is its in Cali and will take 20 days to transfer to Houston. Damn did I mention i'm impatient. Oh well I guess it won't hurt (too much) to drive the slowmobile (protege) around for 3 more weeks. As soon as I remember to grab my camera from friends house i'll post pics of my 350z.

  3. Are you talking about M-z3 or M-z4 coupe.

     

    I can`t say anything other than the Bimmer cause... I work there.

     

    But I just love the Z4 coupe, it's shape reminds me of the Z/quote]

     

    I'm looking at the z3 M coupe. Ironic thing is it is more expensive than the z06. I hadn't really looked at m coupes prices untill yesterday. In order to get it into my price range it needs to be a 99-00 maybe 01. Most likely due to being so rare. So I think I will either get a 350z or z06. One of the reasons i'm looking into the z06 over the 350z because in order to get the acceleration to the z06 level i'll need atlest 5-7k dollars and thats even getting the handling and brakes to that level. Of course i've driven the 350z and i've driven a m-coupe, so this weekend i'm going to testdrive a z06.

  4. Well about 3 weeks ago I was in an accident. I hydroplaned and hit a congrete drain going backwards. It happened doing the speed limit (I had a witness :mrgreen:) 45mph on a rainy day. I was being passed by lots of cars including my witness when all of sudden the back end kicked out. I tried to steer into but it still continued to swing around so I put my brakes on and went for a ride.

     

    I'm lucky because I missed hiting the beginning of a guard rail (which would have lifted my car up and most likely fliped it) and slide down into a water gulley on the side of the road. I went into it backwards and hit a 3'x3'x2' concrete drain cover. After I hit it I skidded across the concrete doing underbody damage (which I think caused the car to be totaled). They got up to 18k damage before they stopped adding up. Every crossmember on the bottom had been bent etc... Pics of car will posted when I got home from work.:mrgreen:

     

    One thing I can say I did wrong was I knew my car had bald rear tires (sez's fault:mrgreen:) and it had hydroplaned two times earlier but it never kicked out just wobbled alittle(thus why I was doing the speed limit) . The ironic thing is I had ordered two new tires 2hrs earlier from tiredirect:fmad:.

     

    In the end the car was totaled, I had a small bump on my head and slight reverse whiplash(both gone two days later), I found out my license was suspended because of a ticket I got in Louisanna going to SEZ 6 I didn't take care of(taken care of now), had to argue alittle with insurance company to get the amount I wanted, and now i'm driving a 96' Mazda Protege (auto, 1.5l, one of the slowest cars in the world):cry:

     

     

    So now that has been taken care of what car should I get next. I've narrowed it down to three but leaning towards one. The first car would be another 03'-04' 350z less mileage but the same car, next would be a BMW M Coupe (I personally love the way this car looks), and last but not least an 02' Corvette Z06. All would be black and manual. They are all within my budget the 350z is least expensive and z06 is the most. I'm leaning towards the z06 because of how good it is stock but i've never been a fan of gm quality (import guy here) and the interior is not what I expect from a 50k car (espeically the radio). What are your thoughts on these vehicles? Mikelly any pointers on the z06?

  5. Didn't feel like reading your second post so I'll answer your first. The injectors will have two 12v's going in and when they want to be fired the ecu will ground it. So connect a test light to 12v source and one of the connectors. If you can a ground(aka light on) then you have a good signal and its a bad injector. If so try to tap it or apply battery voltage for a split second to it. Battery voltage is way too high but it can sometimes undo a stuck injector. Also sometimes when you mount an injector crooked or the holder is off then it will bind internally try testing the injector loose. Good luck.

  6. Im working on some pics ,ect.But like they say money talks,and I welcome any challenges,as long as its in my category.STOCK SUSPENSION&L-28 POWERED.

     

    Just to let you know the people on this website trully dispise people who lie or exaggerate. So if you are just to trying get attention/be an ass like I believe I would stop if you plan to not have admins bring their wrath upon you.(just my opinion) But if you indeed have a fast z then sweet. Let me know what you are running. BTW my 280zx ghetto beast ran a 12.4@110 with a 22yr old stock suspension. And i'm pretty sure i'm not the fastest though so good luck

  7. Nice find. The rear end gets that high when you have no weight back there. My ghetto beast when stripped had 3 full inches of wheel gap in the rear.

     

    There is not suppose to be a hole there. Probably someone drilled it for an aftermarket antena of sorts.

     

    Your brake lights are probably staying on because of the switch under the dash on the brake pedal. Check to make sure its there and working correctly.

  8. Again, not my experience. My Toyota truck had to be run without a thermostat when the thermostat failed (just for a day or two). It had an aluminum radiator and the needle would get maybe 1/8" off of full cold, max.

     

    One of my friends with a Z with a brass radiator thought her car made more power without a thermostat. I had to convince her otherwise after her driving for months like this. Her car also would barely register any temp at all.

     

    We both lived in LA, so there was plenty of traffic involved in both situations.

     

    Hmm interesting. One thing I just thought of is that my se-r it idled at 1000-1100rpms because of cams so the water pump was moving alot faster than say a v8 (or a stock car) that idles at 600 rpms. Also the radiator was 10yrs old and the oem thin one at that.

     

    Btw "83 HKS L28ET" interesting place you live. My my friend at one time Mike moved to miami. He drove a light blue 280z with a l28 turbo. Hey if you meet him say wuz up for me.

  9. I've never seen a car run hot due to no thermostat. Seen several which would never heat up...

     

    I have had two cars that I ran with no thermostat once because I didn't know different and second because I had to drive the car to the parts store. As soon as I got the car moving the car would run to cold but once I sat at a redlight it would creep up. I was running 2 12" hayden fans on a stock radiator on my se-r.

     

    I think that if you were not running an aluminum radiator with some monster fans or if you never sat for a few minutes after the car was warmed up then any car without a thermostat will overheat.

     

    But it would still run too cold once you started to move. Also running at 160-170 degrees is too cold but I have found with a 160-170 thermostat I run 180 degrees what I think is perfect. But then again thats my preference.

  10. Yes you are correct without the thermostat water will flow too quickly through the radiator so it won't have time to cool off. It will be must noticeable at idle and low speeds. Then at high speeds the water will cool too much and the car will run too cold and you will not get optimal lubrication and combustion due to the efi compensating. If you are running an aftermarket efi then I would run a 160 - 170 thermostat. If you plan to run factory efi then I would run 170-180.

  11. Curious, is the TPS a must have for megasquirt to run properly? I would have though if it was making proper corrections based on the MAP readings and the O2 readings then the TPS shouldn't be a big deal. Unless it has to have that signal for immediate accel enrichment...

     

    To idle and drive it does not need the tps but I personally do not like the map accel never got it to work as smoothly as the tps accel. Moby you ever get the map accel to work correctly?

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