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Thumper

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Posts posted by Thumper

  1. yes it is a 83 but how can you tell is there a marking or different number on the box to be sure you never know with old parts.

     

    Am i suppose to check timing with TPS ON or OFF, this would help a lot.

     

    And is setting the timing better advance or retarded for turbos at idle. I hear people using 20* and 27*. This information will be useful for all the Z buddies.

     

    TPS on. Just make sure it is adjusted correctly. Also all this information can be found if you searched. ALL OF IT. The 83' ecu has a different code on it search and you can find what yr it is from. Timing is always better advanced as long as you aren't detonating.

  2. If you are really worried about the discharing hurting the battery then get the yellow top optima. It is a deep cycle and designed to be discharged and recharged. It can also be used in normal car operations. I also will recommend optima and a battery minder, i've never had a problem with slowly discharging batteries since.

  3. Drill and retap your thermostat housing for the gm clt sensor. I forget the thread pitch but you should be able to search on hybridz or anywhere on the net for the size and pitch. Or just buy one and find a nut that fits it. Good luck.

  4. Hello all,

     

    At idle - where should i set the timing to using flat top pistons and turbo. I know on a stock block you use 24* but snice i have flat tops do i want more advance 20* or more retard 27*.

     

    Do set the timing with the TPS on or off because when i set the timing with the gun and the TPS off car ran like crap 0 power and ran pig rich. When i timed with TPS on WOW car ran like a champ and temp stayed cooler.

    Oh yeah i was setting it at 24* and the motor has been recently rebuilt if this info helps.

     

    You got it backwards. Timing is advanced the higher the number and retarded the lower lower the number. I'll assume you have the p90/p90a head so you have 8.7:1 compression ratio. As long as you run premium gas and keep the boost low you should be able to keep it at 24 degrees. Although what year ecu do you have? 81 and 82 the stock timing was 20 and 83 it was 24. If you ever hear anything that sounds like a paint can being shaken up then lift off immediately and retard the timing atlest 2 degrees. Good luck.

  5. Ok I was having a discussion over on e30tech.com They over there feel the hy35 with its 9cm compressor housing is too small and you need to run a hx with its 12cm or the turbo will be out of its sweet spot at upper rpms. I have said that I know of cummings running these up 35psi+ and stock they are running 18psi so I don't believe 20psi on a 2.7 will get it anywhere near out of its sweet spot. Their arguement is that since I am spinning the engine twice as fast as the diesel engine this came off of that the gas engine needs more air than the stock diesel engine. Even though the stock engine is a 5.9l diesel and the bmw motor is a 2.7l

     

    I know diesels don't burn the entire amount of fuel per combustion cycle but it still injests 5.9l's of air per revolution correct? Also what do you think has more exhaust energy a 5.9l diesel engine at 3k rpms or a 2.7l gas engine at 6k rpms. I would think the 2.7l just by alittle bit not alot since more of a complete combustion. Although more compression in a diesel engine so more exhaust pressure? The discussion is long dead and i'm not looking for ammo just wondering. Thanks

  6. I thought that the advantage to using the holset was that it didn't require the use of a modified manifold? I was planning a manifold split in the way you describe, but I was going to be using a Garrett t-04, not a holset. I say was, because now I'm trying to concentrate my energies towards a v-8 conversion.

     

    You don't need to use a modified manifold to use a hy35w or hx35w. But in order to fully use the dual scroll housing the hx has you need a split pulse manifold. The hy does not have a dual scroll.

     

     

    Your manifold sounds good except you don't NEED a equal length manifold. Its nice but not necessary. Other than that sounds like you are good to go. You might consider selling the hx on ebay and buying a hy35. You won't need a spacer or a slit pulse designed manifold. Also it will still spool faster and will handle any amount of boost your z can handle.

  7. I've seen stock rx-8's run 14.9's to 15.1 Even a strong turbo kit wouldn't kit it into the 11's maybe high 12's. It would have been something special or your car might be down on power. How sure are you that it was an rx-8. Maybe another car with a body kit or... Just wondering?

  8. I did'nt want to weld on my new HY35 so I'm trying this on for size, I bolted the waste gate thingie to the intake manifold????? I'll have to see how it works.

    2720141419.jpg

     

    This is what I did with my wastegate. Since the intake manifold and exhaust manifold torque with the engine the only movement will be metal expansion between the two different metals. (very small) I never had a problem. Just make sure you can open the wastegate arm all the way. And have you ported the crap out of the hole? I had to make it the same size as the wastegate puck all the way through the turbo (almost twice the diameter). And I even angled the hole on the inside of the turbo next to the inlet flange so more air would go in there. Good luck.

  9. Actually the only thing setting up a msd box for a cylinder is change the output for the tach. It does nothing on the inside or so says MSD Tech that I asked a few months ago. So you can run the MSD box on your 8 no problems just if you hook a tach to it, it will not be correct. But all you have to do is take the cover off the box and reconnect the cut wire and you are good to go.

  10. Depends on the class, sanctioning body, and whether you want to win or just have fun. Tough call. The Z will always feel more like a real race car, but depending on class rules the BMW may be faster. In ITS we won ARRC's in Z's until the E36's came along and we saw the writing on the wall. I've driven both in IT trim and like the Z better but the E36 is faster- in that class. The BMW costs more to race (tires, motors, spares)- in that class. The Z looks more like a race car to me, but it comes down to what you're trying to accomplish. For the longest time the Volvo 142 was the hot car in ITB. Proof that you can't make a race car out of a pig, but you can make a damn fast pig. You don't say what class you intend to race in and what you're allowed to modify. That will determine which is faster.

     

    Nah no competition. This will just be fun for now. I don't want to have to get serious or follow any rules. That for me would kill some of the fun. I still want to race with other cars just not in a sanctioned race.

  11. The 280zxt auto tranny is only good for about 125mph in the quarter mile with the stock rear-end and tires. If you trap faster then you will need either a 3.36 rear-end, taller tires, or a 4n71b (z31 auto tranny) Also the n/a or bw t-5 does not like drag races and 350hp. It will last for awhile but it will never be realiable. So if you really plan to run 350hp and you want a manual then the ka or z32 is the way to go to save money and time. If you want to run 300hp you are ok with the stock tranny just do a rebuild. Good luck.

  12. Heh Posting this on A Z forum? expect some biased results

     

    Yes I am but I also know this forum has lots of experience underneath its many belts. So far the only reason people would choose the Z over the BMW is cost (i've looked it up not that much more than a z) and because its not done as much/it is a z. Since i'm still going to have a z for a drag car/weekend warrior I will still have my z fix. Right now i'm leaning towards the BMW but it might change.

     

    The major thing I don't like about the bmw is I know I will have a low rev limit (unless I rebuild the bottom end) so I will have to run a lower rear-end. Since I will have a lower final drive I'm going to run a smaller turbo for more spool (low-end power) but less top-end. Other than that I see the BMW as a perfect track car for a track noobie:icon44: Any other things I should consider? Thanks

  13. A woman was in bed with her lover when she heard her husband opening the front door. "Hurry," she said, "stand in the corner."

     

    She rubbed baby oil all over him, then dusted him with talcum powder.

     

    "Don't move until I tell you," she said. "Pretend you're a statue."

     

    "What's this?" the husband inquired as he entered the room.

     

    "Oh it's a statue." she replied. "The Smiths bought one and I liked it so much I got one for us, too."

     

    No more was said, not even when they went to bed.

     

    Around 2 a.m., the husband got up, went to the kitchen and returned with a sandwich and a beer.

     

    "Here," he said to the statue, "have this. I stood like that for two days at the Smiths and nobody offered me a damned thing."

  14. I just purchased a 87' BMW 325 and the BMW and I are growing on each other. I'm debating on which car I should make my track car the 325 or 240z? This would be a few solo II events but mostly full tracks. The BMW's can get as light as 1900lbs but mine would be closer to 2100 if I made it into a track car. They can get about 300-350hp (more if you push it and big turbo) out of a stock block with a good power band and the tranny's can take what you want to throw at them (the bmw engine for awhile will be limited to 6000rpms though due to long stroke/rod length). The rear-ends have 2.73lsd all way through to a 4.10lsd available.

     

    The bmw and z suspension are similar. Mcpherson front's and semi-trailing arms in the rear on the bmw and mcpherson's all-way around on the z. I'm not sure on aerodynamics but being 15yrs newer probably the bmw (although the z "looks" more aerodynamic). The Bmw does have better brakes. They are vented and 4-wheel disks 260mm front 258mm rear. Both cars have similar prices on modifing parts.

     

    I'm not too huge on looks so thats not a deciding factor. Mostly looking at reliabilty and all things being equal which car would be faster. Thanks

  15. Hello! My name is Justin, and I drive a 1974.5 260z. It is a work in progress, so I will be asking lots of questions!

     

    Hi Justin. My name is Ted and I use to drive a 260z but now I drive an e30. And I'm addicted to cars. :flamedevi Welcome to the site!

  16. I am now a proud owner of a used holset hx35w(internally wastegated) turbo with a 12cm wheel:flamedevi . Only paid $270 with shipping so i think i got an awesome deal. Looking under the hood of my 260 it looks like it will fit on my l28et without fitting issues, but i have read that some are not able to fit this turbo on similar setups due to lack of clearance. 1) will this turbo fit? 2) would this be a somewhat street friendly turbo matched to an MS'ed l28et with stock dished pistons(7.4cr) if i do some mild headwork and a decent cam? I understand that thumper is seeing 12psi at 3100 as i recall from another post; can i assume similar spooling characteristics as this turbo is dual scroll and uses MWE(map width enhancement) though it is considerably larger? An info is helpful...

     

    Nope it won't spool as fast. In order to really use the divided entry turbo you need a split-pulse manifold. Also in order to use the hx's 12cm housing you need to run a spacer and make your bolts longer on the exhaust manifold. It hits the the exhaust manifold if you don't. If you do a search with the member 73turbo240z I believe he had a full explanation of why the hx doesn't fit without spacers. It might still be street friendly but I wouldn't want to track it. Too much lag. Still good for drag races though. Good luck.

  17. You could get a 325e. It was the same concept as an crx HF. Low redline, small combustion chamber, etc... it can get roughly 35mpg stock. With megasquirt or something to control injectors I could see 45 at the most. And you can pick them up for around $1k-1.5K. And its rear-wheel drive. But if you truly want the most fuel conservative 4 seater then a tercel or civic would be best. Or even a vw diesel. They get great gas mileage also. Like 50 if I remember correctly stock.

  18. How does one get an E30 BMW down to 1900 lbs? If I recall the specs correctly, a stock straight-6 E30 weighs around 2700 lbs.

     

    In any case, this seems to be a classic debate: the more modern car (the BMW) has advantages in chassis stiffness and suspension geometry. The older car (the Z) is easier to strip and is more amenable to radical mods. I'd say that in a closely-regulated class, race the BMW. In a "run what you brung" class, race the Z.

     

    Yeah I was skeptical also at first. There is a guy at 1851 and another at 1874 they both have roll cages. But from what I could tell the pictures are no longer hosted they are completely stripped. The e30 is kindof like the 280zx has lots of luxury stuff that is heavy. Heck no kidding there is 40-50lbs of sound deadening in the trunk. Its to help the weight distribution. Two layers all around inside the trunk. You can get another 40-50 by removing the sunroof and pot rivoting a lexan moon roof in its place, the seats are really heavy vinvyl 40 each I think, etc... Here are the weights of various parts.

     

    http://www.e30tech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8495&highlight=weight

     

    Just about everyone else though is in high 2100's to low 2200's. But they aren't extreme like the two others.

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