Thumper
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Posts posted by Thumper
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Long time no talk guys and one gal. I've poked my head in here once or twice mostly to remember what a good forum is like. Well i've sold all my z's but no worries i'm getting another one in a few months:) Lets see since last time I posted I have parted out my red 260z. Bought my old 280zx back from my friend, turboed it and made it fairly nice looking and fast (13.3@105). And sold that about a month ago. I just bought my self a 87' BMW 325. It has some paint oxidation and a bad center support bearing but other than that in great shape.
I've moved from Houston, Tx to Pittsburgh, Pa. I'm only up here for a few months before I go back. I'm getting some computer certifications up here and since my brother works for Microsoft I can get alot of deals on the books. I've installed two megsquirt systems on peoples car's and thats about it.
One thing that is frustrating me of late is I have tried three different bmw forums and not one has nearly the knowledge and professionalism of this forum. I've forgotten how bad it can be.
Ok here is the million dollar question. The BMW and I are growing on each other. I'm debating on which car I should make my track car the 325 or 240z? This would be a few solo II events but mostly full tracks. The BMW's can get as light as 1900lbs but mine would be closer to 2100 if I made it into a track car. They can get about 300-350hp (more if you push it) out of a stock block with a good power band and the tranny's can take what you want to throw at them. The rear-ends have 2.73lsd all way through to a 4.10lsd available. The only bad thing I can think of is that the exterior is alittle bit too perfect to strip the interior and make it a track car. Besides a few cracked plastic lens, some paint oxidation, and ONE small ding it is perfect. I think the bmw has a better suspension geometry but the z has better aerodynamics (I believe) and so on and so on.
Whats your input on this guys. BTW no matter what I will be building a z soon if not a track car then a Z-GAD copy drag car.
Here are few pics of the SOLD 280zx and BMW (there are more in my photo album). The BMW pics were taken by prior owner and don't reflect what i've done to it lately. (a.k.a. I don't like the way it looked stock
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Phil just found this thread. I believe you can use a 2.75" to 2.5" adapter for the outlet on the turbo. This is a new holset hy with the 90 turn on the compressor side correct? Also I have a 4" k&n filter for the turbo if you need it.
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Seems alittle fishy to me. Why would the woman keep the video camera rolling? Maybe not though. I was hoping he was in law enforcment.
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about to install my Walbro 255.. right now I have a stock ZXT pump. The NPR IC I have is 28x9x2.5
Then thats probably why your a/f ratios are dropping at higher rpms. Your fuel pump might not be able handle it. On my ghetto beast with 370cc injectors and a starion intercooler I was maxed out at 13psi before detonation. I then put on a walbro and I upped it to 19psi with no detonation.
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What fuel pump and intercooler are you running? If you a fuel pump that can support it and a half-way decent intercooler (starion, npr, and maybe even a supra) you could turn it up to 16 dropping to 14psi. That would be about 240-250hp what is 85% duty cycle for those injectors. Remember at 14psi of boost you are running 51psi of fuel pressure and most injectors are rated at 43 psi. Good luck on hitting 12's.
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Looks fast but if its n/a then at most it has 300hp most likely 220-250hp. In a 2300lb car that is a high 12. I would love to see this on the track though. That is where it would shine.
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This has got me thinking. Ok a miata is halfway generalized as a girl car. (i've owned one and beat the crap out of alot of cars with my girl car) I believe that is so because 8 out of 10 times it is a girl driving it. Atleast in my area. But with an older z or zx i think only two times out of 5 yrs of owning z's have I seen a girl driving a z. So is a Z a MAN'S car? Although you could say that just about any old car since MOST women don't like old cars that they have to fix or work on. Hmm well Katie welcome to the site and Larry good luck on teaching her the dark arts of Z's.
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EBC= Electronic Boost Control
TPS= Throttle Position Sensor
IAT= Intake Temp Sensor
FUBAR= Fucked Up Beyond All Recognization
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Well I figured the problem was between my megasquirt and msd box. So it was either my relay board was messing up the signal or my megasquirt was sending a bad signal. So I bypassed the relay box and wired my white wire from my msd directly to my megasquirt fidle wire and presto its fixed. I truly don't know why it fixed it. Only that it did. I have guesses mostly bad put together of the relay board but don't really care why its fixed just that it is. So fyi if you have these symptoms bypass your relay box.
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I have found that compression will go up about 5-10psi from cold to warm. And 5psi from the throttle plate is opened. It doesn't matter too much since when you are doing a compression test you are mostly looking for consistentsy.
Mycarispurty, Looks like you have a bad headgasket around #3 cylinder. To be more sure its the piston rings and not your valve seals you should put a teaspoon of oil down the spark plug hole and do it again. If it goes up then its your piston rings. If it doesn't then it is more likely your valve seals. Good luck.
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I am not running hei anymore but when I was I was using artic silver. Same stuff I used on my cpu. I am now running msd 6a and I found the relay board was built wrong. Also I knew it was timing because of the above mentioned timing light going out.
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Well I figured the problem was between my megasquirt and msd box. So it was either my relay board was messing up the signal or my megasquirt was sending a bad signal. So I bypassed the relay box and wired my white wire from my msd directly to my megasquirt fidle wire and presto its fixed. I truly don't know why it fixed it. Only that it did. I have guesses mostly bad put together of the relay board but don't really care why its fixed just that it is. So fyi if you have these symptoms bypass your relay box.
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Yes at idle it matches perfectly. Then as I rev higher it will retard away from the timing map. When I put it fixed at 25 degrees it will go to 20 degrees by 2k rpms and so on. Thanks
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I doubt this is your problem' date=' but a few months ago my alternator belt was slipping under load causing a voltage dip and the symptoms you are describing. Of course it was even worse with the headlights on.
Have you tried increasing/decreasing the value of the pullup resistor? At least with the tach input the following applies:
smaller resistance = more sensitive to lower RPM but noisy
larger resistance = less sensitive to lower RPM but less noise at higher RPM[/quote']
That might be the case if this wasn't under no load. This is reving in neutral. Plus the the alternator is brand new is working perfectly verified with a volt meter. Thanks
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maybe your distributor is not timed right with the crank? Maybe the rotor is sweeping past where you have designated timing' date=' and it is causing that kind of behavior.
unless the car was running fine before and all of a sudden it started acting up.
n/m just read your post and it seems that the spark is cutting out completely.
did you build it yourself? are you sure the vb921 is hooked up correctly? (are you using the vb921 coil driver?)[/quote']
The coil driver is not installed. I am running the msd to fire the coil. The only option installed is the flyback board. Thanks
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Already done. The timing will retard as timing goes up. Very little now that i have dwell at 50% and at 3800rpms the timing light will stop flashing alltogether. At 75% the timing would retard alot more. Thanks
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I have had a problem with the car reving past a certain rpms. I just installed a msd 6a instead of a hei module. It still does the same thing. I have played with the dwell settings and they do make it better. At 75% it will not rev past 2800 and at 50% it won't rev past 3700. At the higher rpm the car's tachometer will start to drop off but the tach in megatune will not miss a beat so it is getting a good clean signal just not sending one. I have my 1k ohm 1/4watt resistor as a pullup as needed. I am running megasquirt v3.0 with a flyback and a relay board. Any ideas? Thanks
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Dont they make interference with one another when run parallel the whole length?
Yes you are more likely to get cross-fire that way but magnecores have really good suppression. Only time he might have trouble is if they get really dirty. BTW the best way i've found to clean wires is use wd-40.
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Look closer that's 6 HP!!!!
What is the funny colored thing in the sky???
Is that a 6th horse or a house? My eyes aren't so good in my older years. Damn nm i'm only 24 the doctors did warn me when I was a kid not to play with it so much:flamedevi
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Yes I have two bolts holding down the hei and both are going through the sheet metal and touching the metal rings. Also I have the terminal W grounded to the ignition coil bracket bolt. Thanks any other ideas?
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Ok I have got it running better. But still not driveable. I have changed the dwell to 50% and it now goes up to about 3k rpms. No matter what I do it will not rev higher. I have changed the dwell, inverted spark, changed the timing, locked the timing, and changed fuel values but it will not rev past 3k. When I hook up my timing light, timing seems to be right at idle but the higher in the rpms you go the more the timing retards. Then right around 3k rpms and 10 degrees my timing light starts to not show a spark. So it seems like the module is trying to either fire it at the wrong time or just plain ain't working at that rpm. I have wired the coil and module up perfectly. Just as it was decribed in the sticky. I even installed the condensor. I hate letting a car win so if necessary I will buy a msd box which I know for 100% I can hook up right. Any suggestions thanks!?
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I just installed megasquirt v3.0 into a friends 260z. It won't rev past 1500rpms I am using a HEI 4pin module. It starts perfectly but after 30-45seconds of running it will slowly die. The module and coil are very hot. Is it my dwell settings? Would should I use. I have a 1k resistor between the fidle and tps 5v ref. Besides dwell what else could cause this? Thanks for your time.
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Congrats on the first time. Are all talon tsi's 4wd or just some like eclipses? If you can get a good enough clutch you should be able to get the 60fts much lower. Sub 2.0's if you have 4wd. With 97mph you should be at low 14's. My local track doesn't let me have a passenger ride with me. Even when I was running 15's.
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"PICTURES" What has old/young Thumper Been up too? Plus which car should I build next
in Non Tech Board
Posted
So in your opinion which car would you rather be driving on the track not including the looks of the cars. Thanks