preith

I posted a question on Valvoline's site feedback/questions form: My question: I would like to know the exact percentage of zinc added to all of your Racing line oils. Response: Ours contain .11% zinc. I'm having a hard time beleiving this, and wonder if the person answering the question perhaps wasn't up to the task.

This is a good thread, I'm really glad someone (Silent) shed some light on this. X64v, per your reply to my previous post, my bad, thanks for catching that. Also, I was hoping to avoid additional shipping charges, tried to find the Valvoline full synthetic racing oil locally, but have been having a very hard time. I can only find the VR1 racing oil (dino), but not the full synthetic racing. I even called the local Valvoline oil change place. They could only give me a 1-800 hotline number, and said I can't find it because it's not street legal, but I'm wondering why then can I get the VR1? Valvoline's website does state it as having zinc added, but again not the quantitiy. The "dated link" lists Vavloline Racing, but not VR1, I wonder if it's the same. EDIT: A quick Google search resulted with a link to Amazon.com of all places, at $49, qty 6, with free "super saver" shipping, will have to look into that. the VR1 isn't listed as "not street legal" here's the full synthetic: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GAN3H6/qid=1152552820/sr=1-6/ref=sr_1_6/002-0418305-1774441?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=automotive&v=glance&n=156841810418305-1774441?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=automotive&v=glance&n=15684181

That rule has changed. It's not as bad now, but there still is penalty. It used to be a 100lbs, but it's now something like 2% of the total minimun weight listed in the GCR. With that said, almost all of the SCCA Runoffs front runners are using a live axle.

Interesting. According to TimZ's link posted, the Amsoil 2000 series does NOT have any zinc added. As Tim stated, the link is a bit dated ('99), but with the current trend, my assumption is this hasn't changed.

I was fortunate enough to have a very nice degree wheel built into my ATI damper. With the head off, I found the exact TDC with the dial indicator. I then draped the chain on the lower sprocket and fabricated a more rigid pointer out of 3/16 steel rod, grinding the tip down to a nice point. I could then finish installing the head and have a pointer which could take a slight bump and not be affected, which didn’t happen anyways, but it’s a nice insurance policy. I also used the t-stat housing for the plate mount. I suppose I could use some flush tapered screws, but the bolt heads really don’t hamper the indicator base.

The racks are also available in custom center to center lengths. I believe the typical rack pictured is about 18”. I measured up the stock one at about 24”. I’m not sure about the steering ratios. The racks are available in different ratios, but I was under the impression they weren’t changeable, or not without considerable effort. Another benefit of having the rod ends for inners as well is you can also space that side for bumpsteer. Cary, the cross member would still be U-shaped of sorts, but if you look at the stock one from the side it jogs forward a bit; this would be eliminated. There would still be oil pan clearance issue though without the engine set back a few inches.

Cary is probably sick of hearing this, but I’m still of the opinion that a stock car steering rack is the only way to go: Heh, ignore the right crossed out in the pic... The expense is considerably more, but ditching the entire stock steering system - rack, cross member, and steering column from the get go makes your life so much easier in the long run. Everything is then available off the shelf and practically no machining is needed. The steering rack is much easier to mount. I’m not entirely sure how I’m going to do it, but I was thinking fabricating a plate similar to this, but incorporating a threaded ackerman adjustment into it at a 90 degree angle to it, on the cross member. The inner tie rod mounts are available threaded, all ready to go for 5/8 rod ends. The steering u-joints, which Borgeson for example sells, can be used. The steering column can then be a splined shaft (also off the shelf) suspendend by rod ends, simplifying things and shaving some weight off the car as well. Also, when fabricating the x-member, I plan on pretty much going straight across from the frame rails, instead of angling forward like the stock one, thereby creating loads of room for ackerman, and mounting the engine to the frame rails. I believe you can’t set the motor back in FP, so that may be a problem for some of you. The suspension pick-up points can also be much more narrow if you’re using rod ends for them too, and clearance isn’t as much of an issue then as well.

Looks like the bases have been covered already, but just for the record, I have NOT been down this road yet. I talked it up a bit in the past, but I still haven't had a chance to do what I had in mind yet. If you modify the cross member, you can also allow for bumpsteer adjustment by playing with the height of the rack overall; maybe getting it more in the ball park and fine tuning with spacers on the ends. You can buy a variety of pre-cut aluminum hex tubing, already drilled from Coleman racing, and most importantly cheap, at about $10 each. http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=2_1025

You shouldn't have to weld any aluminum. The brake arm is steel, and that's the only thing you need to weld. Girlings I see. I don't have any clue wether the Tilton setup would work, but it's worth looking into. You may have to fab up a new plate depending on how far apart the master cylinders are. The Tilton setup comes standard for 2.5" on center, but you can special order 2.75 and 3". I wonder if you could get away with a proportioning valve instead?

Iskone, I’m surprised you don’t have a balance bar. If you have Tilton master cylinders, it’s fairly easy to do with the kit they offer. A sleeve needs to be welded to the brake arm. If you, or anyone else is interested, I can try to snap some pics of my setup.

I have dual Tilton .75†masters with Arizona Zcar’s 12.25†brakes, front and rear, on Hawk Blue pads if it matters. Heh, not a lot of thinking went it to it on my part; I went off an Eprod Zcar build featured in SCCA's Sports Car magazine back in '99 when it was being reintroduced to the Procuction ranks. Anyways, I’ve run the car successfully with this setup on about 20 hours of actual wheel to wheel road racing time. Now, I’m not quite old enough to have any experience with a non brake boosted car, but initially the pedal felt HARD, to say the least. When I first drove it on the street to “shake it down†a bit, I thought “how in the heck am I going to have enough leg muscle to stop this thing on the track?†My first inclination was to step down to 5/8†bores, but I decided to stick with the 3/4's and it’s to the point now where they feel pretty good. Maybe it’s more of a comfort thing? With that said, I still have to treat them like I hate them.

I've exclusively used a Nason single stage acrylic enamel on my car and have had good results. It starts at around $25 a quart, at my local body shop supply place. The primer is usually more expensive than the finish coat anyways...

Looks like my post was lost from yesteday. Paul has all the bases covered, I just wanted to add that the head was actually a carbureted N42, without the FI notches. That's not the reason I bought it, but it didn't hurt since I'm using it with triples anyways. It was the one for sale on John Coffey's web site (not the sunbelt engine). Also, the final chamber volume after Paul finished it off was 37mm, which with flat tops at a zero deck height will yeild just under 12:1 or 11.9. Paul mentioned the OEM flat tops actually protrude about .022" above the deck, and if that's the case, the compression jumps to 12.5.

Here's mine. Took a buddy of mine about 10 minutes to do on the lathe. I started with solid stock and drilled them out.

Same as Tube80Z mentioned, I was talking with a few Formula Ford owners at the track, and they both mentioned that they just dab the clutch pedal to help cusion the shifts.

Good news, I emailed the owner of the red GT2 which I posted the link for. He replied with the following: "I used a Nissan bellhousing from an automatic transmission. Ken Muth from Washington machined an adaptor plate. It will accept the four speed or the five speed like mine. Ken can be reached at the following numbers, Ken Muth home 360-668-6071 cell 425-971-4251" If I had only known! I've literally thrown away 3 auto transmissions.

I guess I'll be the first to cut on it. It is a great car, don't get me wrong, and nicely done, but could that fuel cell BE any higher? I know he was going for the whole diffuser thing, but that really has to hurt the center of gravity.

That's just a breather tank, or catch can, to prevent any differential fluid from dropping on the track. Many, if not most, race sanctioning bodies recomend, or require them. Looks like you answered your own question. Yes, they're basically a non-synchronized transmission which enables quicker gear changes, higher reliability (without the possibility of synchros breaking) but at the expense of higher maintenance (replacing the dog rings).

I was going to suggest that as well, but his question was directed towards Jerico's only. Houseman is another vendor which modifies stock boxes, or maybe only the Datsun comp ones, to a dog ring style. http://www.housemanautosport.com/

This GT2 tube frame car has a Jerico 5-speed mated to the 'ole 28. I beleive most of the 300zx GT2, ex L28 powered cars had the Jerico trans before they went to the v6. http://race-cars.com/carsales/other/1062560599/1062560599pw.htm

Here's an auction from what I beleive was the same vendor I originally bought them from. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-L20B-O-S-STAINLESS-VALVES-w-bronze-guides_W0QQitemZ8035512819QQcategoryZ33621QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem He's in Ohio, but per a previous post, they're available from a place in Portland http://www.engnbldr.com/ As Braap (Paul) eluded to, he's working on installing these on a cyl. head for me. I opted for having him turn them down just a bit, so this way I don't have to worry about notching the block; the .560 lift cam makes this more difficult. They'll still be slightly larger than stock too. I don't want to give too much away, but the completed head will be quite nice....

Yeah, I was thinking open loop too, but tuning with an external wideband and changing the fuel map with that. Another harness and everything is definetly the way to go! I'd probably use the wideband just for peace of mind after everything was swapped back to the "simple setup". Right Jon, what to do with the AFM...

Ok, I have to bite. How much can you really do with an antiquated ECU from a 280Z? It's been a long time since I've tinkered with the L-jetronic, but from what I remember a rising rate fuel pressure regulator and a different pump pays dividens. The rules states: "Fuel injected cars may alter or replace the engine management computer, or ECU, provided that all modifications are done within the original OEM ECU housing. Only the stock (unmodified) OEM ECU connection to the wiring harness may be used." That box is pretty big. Why can't one replace the internals with something newer and programmable? The only catch would be the 02 sensor; trying to think of a way around the harness rule...