preith

I did #4 as well. I felt it was a fairly simple, straight foward install. I'll snap some pics tonight as well. Also, I gather by pedal ratio Cary means between the two masters? This is really isn't something you need to be too concerned with during the install, but rather an adjustment after everything is assembled. Also, the remote cable can kit can be used for this. I also found the sleeve needs to be honed out just a bit after welding, or at least mine was distorted enough to where the rod wouldn't slide through. I did run into problems initially with the setup, the front master wasn't retracting far enough, and as the brake fluid swelled, the brakes increasingly stayed on until the car would barely roll anymore. It does address this in the instructions, but I found the pictures/diagrams to be a bit misleading; they seem to be exaggerated just a bit. http://www.tiltonracing.com/ins/98-1250.pdf

My favorite still has to be the GI Joe/Barbie one... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXb2wm8NBb4 EDIT: I forgot Nissan also got in a bit of hot water with this one too, as Mattel filed a lawsuit claiming irreparable damage to their name. EDIT #2: I completly forgot the sequal as well, I think I may have only seen it once or twice, quicktime required: http://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-vids/Nissan-Toys2.mov

As with most members on this board, I figured your car was a dual purpose of some sort as well, I didn't mean to ruffle any feathers, it was strictly speaking in a soloII reference. One point I think we need to touch on is the Nascar style bars are only required for the driver's side of the car. I have an x-bar similar to your link on the passenger side as well, but without the lower portion, which is nice BTW. Jon, I probably sound like a broken record with the SCCA reference, but I'm using it as a benchmark. My club, and NASA for example, follow their rules closely, but this is W2W for too, which most of member here don't do.

I'd also venture to guess that Steve's bars wouldn't pass SCCA w2w tech either. IMHO, this is all a bit overkill for a soloII car.

I've been biting my lip, but I have to agree on both points, outstanding work, but I'm in favor of the vertical spacers as well. But depending on the application, this is probably entirely adequate, perhaps a street/open track car. I'd venture to guess that wouldn't pass SCCA w2w tech.

Just thinking outloud, but on my next cage I would use the upper u-shape design similar to this: only tack the front down tubes in the initial mock up, weld the bottom halves of the upper rears, remove the front tubes, angle the remaining 2 pieces forward, finish the weld on top and put it all back.

My first thought was the sleeve thickness, or length as well. I'd try removing the slave and starting the car in gear.

What I find unusual with all of these complaints is they do have an Ebay store with a very good rating, 596 at 98.4%.

Mat probably addressed this in his PM, but to the best of my knowledge, regardless of what year a particular Z was made, it will NEVER be old enough for exemption. The rule was 20 years as the cut off point, but the DMV changed that to anything from '69 on, about 10?? years ago. Heh, back in the 80's before the DMV got wise, they would require an emission test only after the first year of ownership. My neighbors would sell the car back and forth between siblings once a year.

Agreed, everything on my Wisconsin Z, when compared to my other one from Texas, was night and day, pins being no exception...and I'm still trying to figure out why John named his clean SoCal car "rusty".

Thanks Cary. What I should have said was I've yet to study it and attempt to figure out a way, but it's nice to know it's been done. I'm still having a hard time visualizing it based off that pic.

Yeah I suppose it can be a bit trickey, he won't be in the yellow pages. I found my "cash only" guy through word of mouth at the autocross scene. Kind of a funny story, I was a bit intimidated by his establishment the first time I went there...house barely standing, junked cars everywhere, but he did good fabrication type work such as this.

Very nice Jon! I may go this route as an interim solution to the stock car rack, but I'd really like to find a way to convert the inners to rod ends as well. I must be getting more anal with age, and not to rain on your parade, but I wonder if there would have been a way to turn down the old tie rods on a lathe and get a really nice tight fit, one which would require preheating as Cary mentioned. I don't have a pair of tie rods in front of me, but perhaps one could cut off the outer end, chuck that side up and cut if off the remainder afterwards. I know they're tapered, but perhaps they could be centered with a dian indicator...just thinking out loud. Heh, unfortunatly for me I lost my free machinist connection; he persued a career in law inforcement, doh.

I found out that was the ITS pole sitter too, with a 2.43 laptime, pretty d@mn impressive.

This was taken at my club's (Midwest Council of Sports Car Clubs) outing at Road America last weekend. All I can say is wow! http://www.stlcg.com/RA_kink360.wmv

I forgot about camber, you're correct, that is a bit trickier, but like nope said, the pins, or bolts, are much much easier to remove. Jon was a little harsh, sure that's what camber plates for, but there's plenty of room to play with when both are used. I like to adjust the camber with the arms so the plates have plenty of room on either side, for easy adjustments at the track. Also, small adjustments on the arms translate to large adjustmens up top.

Ok, I found the pic: I have no idea how well it works, who makes it, etc, but I sure like the way it looks. I'm at a loss when it comes to turbo theory, but just wanted contribute with a real world version.

Innovator Z's (now defunct) website had a picture of an actual header almost identical to you drawings. The only difference was the turbo flange was closer to the block. I couldn't sworn I saved it but am unable to find it at the moment. From what I heard Dave Dutko (the owner) had change in jobs, moved out of state, and subsequently closed the doors a few years ago.

I'm a little late with a post on this thread, but oh well. Jon, if you plan on installing those crankcase exhaust collectors on your FP car you may want to double check the GCR. They are specifically prohibited in the SCCA W2W GCR, but I'm not entirely sure about autocrossing. It's a shame too because from what I heard it does work well.