SleeperZ

Aha, that is much clearer. In such case, you just need to shunt the meter with the appropriate resistor. You can wire a lower resistance pot across the speedo winding, say 10K or 5K (wire the wiper to one of the main legs).

IMO, the big drawback with the drawthrough is the inability to intercool. Some folks use water or alcohol injection to cool the charge, but will not remove the heat - you just reduce the temperature by adding less energetic fuel (water can't burn!). Intercooling is a huge advantage as the heat is actually removed from the intake air.

You didn't mention whether you are running the car under load or not. If you are just running up the motor out of gear, you will not develop any boost. Take it for a spin!

Heya Shane - watta ya know - I have those parts left over from my L28ET auto, I'll talk to you tomorrow morning

Ahh...too bad this doesn't work for Nissan L engines.

With all due respect to Corky Bell and his company - he does seem to know his stuff - I don't understand how a RRFPR can perform adequately. My thoughts on using the larger 370cc injectors follow this line: Lower the fuel pressure and/or adjust the AFM so the car runs normally with the larger injectors. This should get you normal mixture ratios and similar performance up the point where the duty cycle is maxxed on the ECU. At this point you would want the RRFPR to increase fuel pressure to maintain the fuel mixture at 11 or 12 to 1, HOWEVER if you are running some higher boost, say 15 psi and up, you may be making this boost by 4000 RPM. The fuel pressure will not rise past this point and you will still run lean (WAY lean IMO) as you get to 5500 RPM or so. The only way to tune this thang would be to raise fuel pressure high enough to get your safe mixture at redline, max boost, then you would run pig rich in the midrange RPMs... Any comments? If the fuel pressure rise was boost referenced AND RPM referenced, I can see a benefit.

Believe me - just short the two big wires together - all you are doing is removing the ammeter. If you were removing the voltmeter, you would have to leave the wires open.

What kind of budget are you looking at? The latest SportZ mag has a writeup on a budget stroker project using mostly used parts, and does it for about $2500. Do not think you can do a good one for less, as quality machine work is critical on this build up.

Doubtful your mouth could pull enough vacuum to move it. A "MityVac" is a very cheap tool that tests these things with ease...

", someone smack me! " Consider yourself smacked! And I hear you about the funds thing...

IMHO, no internal mods are necessary. Use factory gaskets and factory internals, unless you feel like throwing in some total seal rings. I've not heard anything bad about them and they should reduce blowby. If you are going for very high horsepower, consider the standard mods like prepping the rods, destressing the block, maybe o-ringing the block (with a factory head gasket). I paid $700 for my hybrid. You can run as much boost as you want as long as you can supply the fuel (factory EFI to about 12 psi) and keep the intake charge cool (good intercooler). I know folks running 23+ psi on stock motors. A good freeflowing exhaust is a must, and eliminating intake restrictions help as well.

I, of course, did not check my local laws before scrapping the ZX exhaust when I transplanted my '82 motor into my '78. The '78 used regular gas and had no cat - the '82 used unleaded and had a cat. In Colorado, they do an exhaust sniff test for cars prior to '82 and check for the emissions equipment. They are getting lazy and not looking at EGR and carbon canisters, but they always check gas caps and cats. Of course they check the equipment for the vehicle, not the engine, so mine passes visual every time (sniff test is another thing ). So not being familiar with the laws, I've done it and the state doesn't seem to care, let alone even notice.

Don't bother trying to close a EFI loop with an O2 sensor. They are too slow, and the O2 sensors are only accurate within a narrow range of mixtures and temperatures. Get a good one with fuel metered via maps based on RPM and airflow (like Shane's JWT )

DAW - the only plausible reason I can come up with is the way the air bypass is routed differently on the turbo setup. Also, the turbo has an automatic idle control, and the Weber allows a manual idle setting. I'm not letting MSA's recommendation keep me from installing it!!!

I was wondering what the internal wastegate looked like, so I took off the cover from my T3/T04 turbo. The flapper appears to be large compared to the hole it covers. Has anyone tried to grind out the hole? How much could be ground out without affecting the sealing of the flapper? What benefits would one be expected to see? Any issues with grinding it out with the turbine still in the turbo housing? I'm getting real close to reassembling everything and putting into the car. Psyched to turn up the boost with an intercooler !!

My intuition about draw-through tells me Corky Bell is right. Trying to pull a fuel/air mixture through the blades of a compressor sounds like a cold-starting nightmare (besides you can forget about intercooling - have to resort to water injection or some other band-aid solution).

Scotty, you would have no trouble with the injectors, since they are batch fired. If the ignition system is separate from the FI, it should work with a little tuning or injector swapping. Keep in mind if you lose 2 injectors, the ECU is still going to fire the injectors according to how much air it reads, so you will be quite lean. So just swap in some higher flowing injectors and adjust the AFM to fine tune it (I know you've done this).

Turn your engine to TDC, then look through the cam gear to the first tower. There should be a notch on the gear that lines up with an arc on the tower, indicating proper cam timing. If they don't line up, you know it's off, and you will need to pull the gear and move it a tooth forward or back. Good luck.

Beef - I've done the swap in my '78Z "Here are a couple question I have in my mind right now... 1) How much boost will a stock L28ET handle?? 2) When I tear down the block what should I do to it, how much bore, what type of pistons. 3) How much HP can I expect from a t3/t4 hybrid?? 4) Can I use my stock drive shaft, and can my 240 rear handle the power of the L28?? 5) What other thing would I plan on doing?? " 1) A stock L28ET will handle dang near anything you can throw at it. SHANE is running 23psi on a stock L28ET. Key is good intercooling and plenty of fuel. 2) If you want to build a stronger motor, you can condition the stock rods, stock crank, and maybe some 0.020" forged pistons with total seal rings. You don't need a large bore, but you can bore them to 89mm. 3) Depends on which hybrid you get, but a T04E will support 450+ hp, after that you might consider a full T4 and a custom exhaust manifold. 4) The drive shaft should be OK for 400hp, as should an R200. If you have an R180, replace it. 5) Aftermarket EFI is a good option, otherwise stock electronics work well to 250-300hp.

Put the dished turbo pistons in the block, that will make it essentally a turbo F54. You'll still want to tap the oil pan for a turbo oil drain (or swap on the turbo pan). With the N/A fuel injection, you will not be able to make much power - probably be lucky to safely run stock boost. So swap out the ECU, wiring harness, AFM, and distributor to complete the tubo conversion.

Shane - I've never heard of anyone offering a custom manifold for the L28. The only ones I've seen people have fabricated themselves. It seems to me any competent machine shop could mill out the injector holes for larger tips to the proper depth for the new injectors. Provided, of course your new fuel rail will hold them in.

I happen to be running a T5 behind my turbo motor, but I know lots of folks running the regular Nissan trannies with turbo motors at high boost levels that report no problems. In fact, the T5 is not highly regarded for it's shift feel, and they prefer the Nissan.

It is possible to fool an analog ECU like the early Zs '75-'78 to make minor compensatory changes, but you will not get satisfactory results trying that with a digital ECU like the ZX and the ZXT. The O2 sensor is used to make minor mixture changes during cruising conditions only - the O2 sensor and feedback loop is very slow. The injector size is internally mapped, so any sensor fooling only works within a small range, maybe 10%. For idle and full throttle, the ECU is going off a map, and there is only a couple things you can do. 1. Reprogram the chip. This is the best way, and makes the ECU very happy. 2. Add unmetered air in proportion to the increase in injector size (ie: add 40% more air if you run 370cc injectors on a turbo), bypassing the AFM. This will probably help the idle mixture a little bit, but perhaps not at all. But it gives an added bonus of less intake restriction, and will give proper fuel mixtures under cruising and full throttle. The only drawback is you may have to pull spark advance, because the ECU is basically being fooling into operating at a lower part on it's ignition curve, and a turbo ECU without a boost sensor will pull timing toward the top of it's fuel map.

The SVO injectors will take a bit of work to adapt to the stock fuel rail, but it's just a matter of attaching hoses to the tops of the injectors, and monkeying with the o-rings and possibly the plastic end caps of the injector end. Scottie, of course has done it, and may be able to explain better. You can get a fuel rail full of 4 injectors off Mustang SVO, Merkur XR4TI, or Thunderbird Turbocoupe. Expect to pay $20 at a U-pull-it, and I personally have more than 20 injectors I intend to flow test. I could be persuaded to flow test and match a set of 6 and sell them

It's obvious to me you can get more than that. Ol' 12 second Norm is putting a minimum of 230 to the ground with his L28 and dual SUs. What's that, 250+ at the flywheel?