SleeperZ

Scotty - I'm going to differ on this one and say you should have NO lag issues with the turbo - if you still have the T3 turbine it should spool like stock (just like my TO4B and Shane's TO4E). However if you have to space the big TO4E wheel out from the stock manifold, your downpipe will no longer fit.

That's quite a blow. You have my deepest sympathy and regards.

JB Weld <---- won't work. You need a new downpipe. I have one, but the exhaust pipe is rusted in place - and they can be a PITA to get loose! Let me know if you still want it - you can have it for $10 + shipping cost.

You have really done your homework. The TO4E 50 or 57 trim will get you anywhere you want to be with a L28 motor. I'm not sure you need a TO4 exhaust turbine, plenty of folks are running the stock T3 turbine on any of the compressors you mentioned, but the TO4 will definitely not have any flow problems at the top end. You should not have to run water injection - it just displaces fuel and air - with a good Spearco your intake charge should be cool enough.

I may not be in school, but I am a student of the 'Z', as well as other life lessons.

You serious? April 1 was last week No such thing - dude is yanking your chain

Turbocharging is the way to maximum power, no matter what engine you use. Build a V8, and turbocharge it - that is how to get maximum power. If you are a bit more modest get a lowly GN V6 like Scottie-GNZ - I think he's only making 500 or so hp. Otherwise fit in a 2JZ-GTE or a RB26DETT - both turbo engines make SICK power.

It may, in fact, work, but here is what might happen. Your efficiency will be very low, and your air charge will not cool down. The coolant was designed to go through at a very low velocity, so there is not much surface area to dump heat to. You may not get much pressure drop, but I bet you get very little cooling.

I'm sorry, I really do not understand. Where does this factor of 4 come in? I have over 2 dozen of these "brown tops" on my bench, and I have flow tested them. I hold them open for a minute over a graduated cylinder, and they put out 370cc - it's that simple. I can see opening the injector for 15 seconds, measuring and then multiplying by 4 - is that what you mean?

Donna - if you were not in California, I'd say you can easily get rid of the PCV (vent the valve cover) and easily lose the boot, as you no longer need an AFM with the TEC. Fuel vapor cannister too. But that is all required emissions equipment. I don't think I could get away with removing it in Colorado either, if my car was '82 or newer. The older cars don't get inspected for that stuff anymore, so I've rid myself of EGR and other stuff. I still run a PCV as there is some benefit to pulling a vacuum in the crankcase (don't know if it offsets the disadvantage of oil vapors in the intake though...), and I've not yet figured out how to run the fuel tank vent without the cannister. I do want to burn the fuel vapors.

If you aren't sure about electronics, I suggest you get the ECU and harness from the turbo car. The harness and ECU are different, but can be swapped into the car with ease. Get all the relevant sensors including the AFM, distributor and the ignition trigger and coil. Also get the fuel pump. This is a very common swap, even in first gen Zs, and there is lots of material on this swap - just search the archives (check zcar.com too, lots of info).

I doubt you'll have any trouble from the turbo and sc Honduhs and such. They may have the power/weight, but they have no way to stick it. You get the hole shot and never look back.

Are you talking about an N42? All the n/a manifolds do this. I plugged the original hole and drilled and tapped a new one (1/4" NPT) in the spot where it goes on the turbo intake. Not too big of a deal. You can also plug it, and put breathers on the block and cam cover.

Is the body of the injector brown? There are green ones that do not flow as much. I have personally tested the brown top injectors at 360cc at 37 psi, so the company that tested them did it wrong, or your injectors are seriously anemic. No injector I know of only flows 100cc per minute. Maybe they only flow test them for 15-20 seconds? Who knows?

I'll offer my $0.02 on this topic. I have a L28ET with a T5 and a 300ZX (Z31) ECU. I do 0-60 in 5-6 seconds, 1/4 mile in high 14's (at 5800 feet - intercooler going in soon), and I get 27 mpg averaging 80mph. I got this mileage going from Denver to Grand Junction (250 miles) in about 3 hours. This included an incredible pull at 9000 feet, passing a left lane hog up an 8% grade at 115mph.

FWIW, since my IC has 2" inlet and outlet, I'm running 2" from the turbo to the IC, then opening up to 2-1/4" and between the radiator and the motor I will expand that (with a long reducer cone) to 3" bending 90 into the Weber TB. I'm hoping I have the room - I'm making some more measurements before I buy the parts

Wooo! It's on!

Your base fuel pressure should be 37 psi. that means under boost of 8 psi, you should have 45 psi of fuel pressure. You either have bad wiring (very bad wiring) to your pump, or your pump truly can't deliver. A stock Z pump can do 8 psi over base, so I'd be real suspicious of that pump.

Doesn't sound normal to me. Check your radiator cap to see if you are sealed. Check your fluid level, and make sure your overflow tank is burping out all the air.

The supercharger kit is from Jim Cook Racing (not usre of the URL, probably jimcook.com or jimcookracing.com). It uses a roots blower similar to the Eaton unit used in the Jackson Racing kit. The picture in the catalog has not changed in years, and I don't know anyone who either bought one, or uses one. It's pictured as using the Holley Projection system, which is not very popular anymore. I would think if you could get the intake manifold, charger and belt system, you still might have trouble putting a carb on top of it as the TBI is not mounted flat. What about getting a SC system off a Ford Supercoupe? - that might be easier to retrofit, although it's still EFI. Not many options it looks like.

The P90 and P90A heads both have square exhaust ports. What's the URL for ATK? My guess is get the turbo motor - I have no idea what means.

I'm pretty sure dividing the voltage down with a resistor is not going to work. Most of those instruments have an internally regulated reference voltage (to deal with the varying battery voltage) - reduce the input and it will just cease to function. You may have to resort to what the Z folks have always done with speedo gears - swap a cog or housing to change the gear ratio. Err...I may have mis-understood what you are saying. You aren't trying to reduce the supply voltage, but the signal to the speedo display? Is this an analog meter driven by a VCO (voltage controlled oscillator)? It could possibly work if that is the case, but instead of a series resistor, wire the pot across the signal to ground, and wire the wiper to the instrument. That way you will not affect (by much) the load impedence driving the instrument. A high value would be appropriate (say 100K).

What I believe may get you from here to there is to put a variable resistance "across" the meter. What across means is one end of the resistor at your red wire, the other end to the other wire of your meter (you need two wires to complete a circuit). You don't cut, or interrupt the connection, you are effectively lowering the resistance of the circuit by putting in a variable resistor in parallel with the resistance of the meter. Since the meter is current driven, you are bypassing some of the current required to drive the meter through your pot instead. The "wiper" is the variable leg of the pot (the middle connection). Connect this leg to one of the outside legs and the resistor becomes variable. If I'm not adequately describing this, email me, and tonight I can draw up something on the computer and email it to you.

The air/liquid one that is. The screwy inlet/outlet configuration was giving me a headache, so I sold it. Final price on Ebay was $237 - I sure hope the bidder doesn't turn out to be a deadbeat. Anyway, I went and bought Shane's old Spearco 2-225, good for 700 cfm at a 1.5psi drop (has a 3.5" x 8" charge air interface). Plumbing should be much less headache I can't wait to get this baby fired up again