SleeperZ

if you are only targeting 14psi boost, you are setup for it right now. Install the ProfecB and turn it up.

What's your compression ratio? If you are over 9 or 9.5 to 1, turbocharging is going to be very difficult. Do you have a high overlap cam? Turbos hate overlap. You will definitely need a good intercooler and an aftermarket (read tuneable) EFI system and a very efficient turbo like a T3/TO4E at the very least. High performance N/A engines and forced induction do not mix well.

I've heard the same thing on the fuel rail - it's good for 300+ hp. I am using an N42 intake on my turbo, and the tool that really helped smooth out the bumps and port the intake (60mm tb) was a 1" drum sander on my drill. Costs about $5 including replacement sandpaper drums and it won't clog up - just cuts like crazy until it wears out. Of course it wont reach the bumps waaaaay inside.

Try a Grand National V6 turbo for an excellent drag race motor in a Z.

Yes, there is a 6 bolt "washer" between the flywheel bolt heads and the flywheel, but also a "cap" on the end of the crank of the automatic models that needs to be pried off in order to mount a flywheel. It would be very obvious in assembly, as the flywheel could not be centered and hung on the crankshaft - the OD of the cap will not go into the relief of the flywheel, and the flywheel would stand off the crank about the width of the ring gear.

On my new L28ET install, I used a Felpro head gasket torqued to 65 ft-lb (standard torque using stock bolts), and the gasket said re-torque isn't necessary. I will be running higher boost on this, as soon as I can dial it - I've run 10psi on it so far, with no issues. Should I re-torque it anyway? What is the procedure for re-torque? Do I loosen the bolts, or just re-torque at 65 ft-lbs? Any specific sequencing on re-torque? Thanks

I'm turning blue - can I breathe yet?

Did you keep tension on the chain the whole time it as off the cam sprocket? If not, most likely your chain tensioner popped out, and you need to remove the front cover to replace it. Been there, done that.

Nice going! That's an excellent deal. I have just finished an install of a junkyard turbo motor in my '78 (I've been running a turbo for while, just go a new motor). I paid $150 for just the engine and a bad turbo, but it was a factory Nissan remanufacture with very low miles. I fired it up this weekend and boy does she purr...

My thinking (and that's all it is, but I did get an engineering degree) along those lines is the tire width should follow the weight of the vehicle [for a given tire compound]. Obviously the softer rubber compunds give you more grip, but shear off easier, so by making it wider you are increasing your grip. I think there is a law of diminishing returns, where wider won't give you any more traction - this should be where the reduced weight on the tire (per square inch) gives you less friction. [frictional force is the weight/square inch times the frictional coefficient of the tire compound]

Hey Pete - I bought mine from Jegs for $20 - it threads into a 1/8" NPT fitting. I bought some brass 5/16" hose barbs and a 1/8" NPT "T" fitting and plumbed it inline after the fuel filter.

And I thought I was the only one. I drilled my junkyard motor's manifold for an EGT sensor and tried to remount it to the head... it wouldn't line up. I ended up reusing my old manifold that does seem to match head -- I couldn't figure out what was wrong with the other one - holes lined up, ports appeared to be in the right place... Oh well, no help

And the answer is....... YES. You need money and some internal prep, but I hear you can do it with stock block crank and rods.

A/R is the area (cross-sectional) of the turbine divided by the radius of the snail at the cross-section point. This number is a constant all along the snail scroll. A smaller number generally means a smaller area (more restrictive), but that will give you a higher turbine speed (for better spool). You already know spool speed is traded off for top end power. So you would have to pull off the wastegate housing and the snail, and replace them with your stock pieces - it is not too dificult, but you need to make sure the turbine is the same size. Will your downpipe flange bolt up to the new turbine housing? Some of those T3 sections are not compatible with the ZX downpipe flange, in which case you must bolt on your stock turbine snail and wastegate pieces.

That inlet sure does look funny (small inside a large), but I don't recommend modifying that, I imagine it's there for a reason. Looks good, and I'm sure it will need a spacer. I would also look into getting the .63 A/R turbine housing on that.

Quick calculation here, for 420 cc/min injectors and 20 psi boost with 40 psi static fuel pressure, you need a pump capable of supplying 150 l/hour (40 gal/hr) at 60 psi. Oops - 440 cc/min injectors... 160 l/hour (42 gal/hour) at 60 psi.

I believe one gallon of fuel = 6 lbs weight...keep in front of your mind that pump manufacturers will overstate the flow rating. For example, the Walbro 190lph pump will flow 190lph at 15 psi - that is not a pump for a turbo motor - this same pump will only flow 120lph at 60 psi.

I am pretty sure the turbo pump can supply more fuel at a higher pressure. Since the manifold pressure on a turbo car rises 7 psi over atmosphere, and the injectors are rated for a higher flow, you would be wise to run a turbo pump. I am selling used Bosch pumps as upgrades - the factory ZXT pump flows 90 liters/hour at 50 psi (37 base + 13 psi boost), and the pump I am selling delivers 145 liters/hour at 50 psi. This is enough pump to supply the popular Ford SVO injectors (370cc/min @ 40 psi) at a boost pressure of 13 psi.

The numbers are actually quite easy. Multiply the flow rating of your injectors by 6 cylinders and convert it to whatever units your prospective pump is specified. Then add your boost pressure to your base fuel pressure supplied by your regulator. The fuel pump must deliver at least (and I'd give it 20% margin) what your injectors can deliver at 100% DC at the fuel pressure + boost pressure. Remember, most pumps are specified at a certain flow at a certain pressure. Be sure the pump is specified this way or you will certainly get a pump that can only deliver "50 lbs" at 5 psi.

I could be wrong, but this is what I've seen at the scrapyards.... The bolt-on brackets from the Maximas that fit the early ZX calipers will not work with the later ZX calipers or the 240SX calipers - the bolt spacing is different. Supposedly there is a Maxima bracket put on some of the '82 Maximas that allows you to bolt up the later ZX and 240SX calipers, but all I've seen were welded on.

Oh jeez...60mm is almost 2-1/2", the size of my whole exhaust. Sucks that you are throwing out almost as much as I use Oh, BTW

Scotty - The guy I know who runs a TO4E in his 240Z ran low 12's to high 11's up here at 5800' elevation. That should be close to 400hp at the crank. Unfortunately his shop (TEC) will not disclose the specs on it - trade secrets you know...If you have a good IC and fuel system, you may be able to hit that with the TO4E you have provided you can attach your old exhaust housing. When I bought my turbo (from JCR), I had no idea what I was buying - it worked well and I was glad it just bolted up - no spacers or serious intake mods. Since then I have taken it apart and measured it; it is a TO4B super V trim, with a stock exhaust housing and I love it. I've looked up the flow maps and this sucker gives 73% efficiency from 10 psi to 22 psi on the L28ET. No wonder it flies so well up the mountains! Good luck whatever you decide to do - learning about this stuff is 1/3 of the fun (driving it is 2/3 )

The N/A distributor will not attach to the shaft, so you need a shaft as well as a distributor. I do not believe the crank angle sensor will install into the N/A distributor either. If you are using the factory electronics, the non-advancing distributor is nice, but if you really can't find one, you could use a N/A ZX distributor with an MSD boost retard and ignition box and just not use the turbo ignition curve.

Scotty, he makes no mention of what trim the compressor is, just an A/R, but with that tiny hot side A/R you will spool like the devil and possibly choke down on the top end. The stock T3 has a .63 A/R and is well matched to a stock L28ET. BTW, "lag" means different things to different people - a big compressor will give you "lag" if it doesn't get you full boost by the same time the stock one did - the turbo will be spooled, you just may not have as much boost at the spooled rpm. (Just MHO)

The clipped wheel I have heard contributes to a slower spoolup - I believe it is a turbine mod to increase exhaust flow without moving to a larger turbine housing. You may just not have the flow to get that compressor pressurized before you run out of revs, but it wouldn't surprise me if you were actually making more power than before (like Scottie said). Then again, if you are too rich or timing is off, the motor will feel like a slug.