SleeperZ

The slight modifications include reversing the slope on the voltage input to the ECU, and calibrating the base value. Not trivial. A microcontroller with a good A/D and D/A could be programmed to do it, or if you are good at analog amplifier electronics, equally simple.

Jersey, do the covered spots carry through to the head too? If not, no big deal, right?

No difference. I think the term "aftercooler" comes from the supercharger world. They are both mounted after the compressor (by necessity).

That's beautiful, nice job!

Actually, as long as the battery has the capacity to start the car under the conditions, the charge rate is irrelevant - it's just a constant voltage charger, alternator capacity has nothing to do with how fast the battery charges. The reason the battery is so large and heavy is for starting under cold conditions, and to last for years of daily starting.

I'm running about 350hp with my turbo setup, at 16 psi boost. The parasitic drag of the charger will have to be subtracted from that. Also keep in mind you will need an intercooler to run that level of boost. I'm sure that charger will not pump air above 15 psi without massive amounts of heat, and no real increase in air mass. But I've not seen a flow map, so that's where I'd start looking if you are serious.

I've bought many at scrapyards for $15 each. Those pumps are everywhere. It's the new ones that cost money. I bought a new one for $170, but that's rare.

Yep, looks good. I'm sure you'll be giving me a run for my money soon!

I heard all sorts of (mis)info. I just got one of each and did the comparisons myself. And I found no substantial differences. The N42 seems to have more casting intrusions inside, some of which are hard to grind out. I got most of them, and I'm quite happy with the intake.

Sounds like a good setup - you must be looking to run some higher rpms with the .83 stage 5 turbine? If you port the wastegate, you'll also have to get a bigger flap to match it. Unless you will be running more than 20psi, I'm thinking you don't need to port it out, but maybe that's the idea?

I find it hard to believe this guy isn't going to charge you more to install a VG motor over the easier L28ET. There is quite a bit of custom work to do fitting in that engine. Personally I'd go with the L28ET - you can always do a VG later.

TimZ, that is an excellent explanation. Makes sense to me, I was curious that my dyno chart was taken in third gear - I thought my 419 torque was high as a result - but now I know it's REAL! (unless they screwed up the rpm readings...possible )

I've never heard of this Z site, so thanks for bringing it to my attention. When this idiot starts yammering about Bandimere (my hangout), I had to go register and call him out.

You know he's BS'ing just because he left the caps lock on.

I'm using a Bosch pump for a CIS injection (high pressure). OEM for Porsche turbo.

J Taylor is right. Check your plumbing, to make sure you haven't switched the boost line (to compressor housing and wastegate) with the MAP line (to the manifold). And there are two modes, internal wastegate and external - the logic in controlling these is probably different, and switching modes could result in what you are seeing. I wouldn't try to send it back until you have a good grasp of how it is installed. My unit works perfectly, the low boost mode will regulate right at 12 psi, for the tight road courses, and the high boost regulates at 16 psi for the street and strip.

I'll weigh in with my 0.02, although I'm sure it's nothing new. It makes sense to me that drivetrain losses are not constant or linear with power output, ie: not a constant 20 or 30 hp, and not a % of total power. It is probably somewhere in between, as the losses in the drivetrain will be somewhat dependent on both rpm and vehicle speed. This places variables in the transmission ratios and the rear-end ratio...

That WAS a long post. I still get exhaust fumes in my car whenever the windows are down. They almost completely go away when I pop up the sunroof. I think your fumes are getting in the same way, by being sucked in from the back from the forward motion ofthe car. You may get some benefit from extending the exhaust tip further out the back, but it may look funny. I don't think you will get many fumes from the firewall area - sorry I don't have any suggestions for sealing it up. If you are still using a crush-bent 2-1/2 at the back, you will realize a huge benefit by just replacing those bent sections with 2-1/2" mandrel bends. Your glasspack is not restricting that much I bet. A pair of 90 degree bends will probably only cost $50. If you can do the cutting and clamping or welding, it should only cost you $10-$20 more.