SleeperZ

What kind of fuel pressure regulator do you have? If the outlet is not large enough, your big pump could be overpowering it (and fuel pressure would not be dependable). Or your pressure regulator could be malfunctioning under high flow (at idle is highest flow).

Summit sells a gauge with a 1/8" NPT thread 0-100 or 0-60 psi for $20. Just get a brass T fitting with 5/16" barbs and a 1/8" NPT pipe, you're in business.

Bastaad525 - I made my timing comment because I read this "...(at idle or when ticked into remaining closed off idle) it runs much better but advances the timing too much..." I interpreted that to say you had not timing at idle with the TPS closed. When the TPS is closed, I don't believe the timing will advance; I could be wrong on this, but it seems to me when I time my car, idle speed will not change the timing, but as soon as the TPS opens, the advance changes.

But that doesnt include the cost of valves does it? I'm thinking of doing complete rebuild on my N/A engine (but im rebuilding to support boost cuz I do want to turbocharge it). What do you suggest as far as valves? Stock valves, if you need them. When I had a head built with a turbo camshaft, my head builder flowed a stock exhaust valve vs. a larger (not sure how much, 2mm?) valve on a stock bore. The bigger valve did not flow as much as stock, supposedly due to shrouding by a stock bore cylinder. If you are doing a bigger bore, you would probably get different results.

But that doesnt include the cost of valves does it? I'm thinking of doing complete rebuild on my N/A engine (but im rebuilding to support boost cuz I do want to turbocharge it). What do you suggest as far as valves? Stock valves, if you need them. When I had a head built with a turbo camshaft, my head builder flowed a stock exhaust valve vs. a larger (not sure how much, 2mm?) valve on a stock bore. The bigger valve did not flow as much as stock, supposedly due to shrouding by a stock bore cylinder. If you are doing a bigger bore, you would probably get different results.

You have just identified an ignition timing problem. You must set the ignition timing with the TPS closed. If you have too much advance when you close the TPS, just adjust it to the right mark, then you should run better off idle.

Yes, you can sell it , but you must pay off the "lien" holder at closing. That means you have to go to the bank with the buyer, and the buyer pays the lien - you get what's left over.

'83 turbo has no ballast resistor, as far as I know. The "condensor" you speak of is just a capacitor, and is just for noise suppression; it should not affect whether you get power to your coil. It is not at all clear what you are testing and how you are doing it. You wil not be able to test the CAS inside the distributor with resistance measurements. You need to turn on the ignition (with the distributor harness connected) and check for voltage, and then check for voltage pulsing on the outputs as you turn the dizzy by hand. However, if the car runs at all, the CAS is working, so you need to check for power and signal to the coil, which is controlled by the ECU. If you can verify you have 12V to your coil, then you just need to check to see if your ECU is triggering it. Disconnect the signal wire to the "ignitor", and check to see if it is pulsing, either with a test light or a voltmeter. If it is, your coil or "ignitor" is bad. If not, your ECU may have a problem.

That's pretty funny.

[mexican accent] Kit? We don't need no stinkin' kit [/mexican accent] Make one. It's been done, but I don't recall who. Make some measurements, get some parts, make some more measurements, make some parts, drop it in, make some measurements, pull it out, make some more parts, drop it in again, hook it up, fire it up and drive.

What's the dilemma? Get the Z32 and put a V8 in it. Then you have both.

You don't need to reprogram the ECU to run more boost or fuel. Just up the fuel pressure to get a better mixture at WOT, the ECU will adjust the midrange for you. You may be approaching the limit of the stock injectors if you raise the boost much more - I believe I was pushing it running 14 psi with stock injectors and a similar turbo/IC (but I'm 5800' elevation, equivalent to 12 psi at sea level). I am now running 16 psi with SVO 370cc/minute injectors and 43 psi static base fuel pressure, and that A/F ratio is running about 12.0-12.5 to 1. You can see my dyno numbers in my signature; I have not made significant adjustments since. I am able to make the SVO injectors act like stock by installing the MAF hot wire element in a larger intake (3-1/2" OD exhaust pipe). I even passed Colorado emissions testing with no adjustments on this new setup. All this on a factory '86 turbo ECU. If you are still interested in reprogramming the EEPROM, I understand it is somewhat complex - I have the added benefit of less intake restriction from the stock MAF housing. Bernard may read this and post his work on the subject, but the bottom line is Jim Wolf earns his money on modified Z31 ECUs.

I'm scratching my head on the honking thing too....I have an '89 Toyota 4x4. Does it move smoothly? Maybe the return spring is binding, or the pivot point is sticking a bit. BTW, I tried the rich/lean thing with my AFM a while back, thinking it was like a Z, and could never get the AFM to affect the mixture at all. I think the ECU must constantly update it's maps with the O2 readings, and the only thing the AFM does is give relative measurements.

Nice going Moby! That's exactly how my car feels.

I'm driving a '78 300D on biodiesel. From what I hear the W123 chassis'd cars with the 5 cylinder OM617 engines are solid, bulletproof, and very common. I got a great deal on mine, and although I may be the slowest thing on the road I'm using domestic fuel we don't have to fight a war for, and it makes my Z seem that much faster! Cheers,

I guess that's up to you. I'll stick with my $70 u-pull-it 5 speed tranny, thanks.

Man, running that fast, I'd never ghetto the FPR like that, hoping to get more fuel at WOT. More than likely it'd run like crap until you get to the top of the RPM band before you made any power. It's torque under the curve that gets you good time, not max power at redline. Personally I'd get a good adjustable FPR and hit the dyno, keeping a good eye on the A/F, and adjust it right. A new engine may not run much (I got my current engine for $150), but it sure will ruin your night and weekend having to swap in a new motor wondering what went wrong. And if you are pinging a little bit at the top end right now, just add 5 gallons of race gas, lower the boost a pound or so, and just have fun. Wait until you get solid data on what's happening in your fuel system before trying to set new records. Of course, you are the one running 12's and here I am still in the 13's, so I'll shut up now.

Yeah, the Porsche is a nice looking, very well performing car. I hope you can afford to keep up on the maintenance and repair - that may come as a shock coming from a ZX and domestic V8 perspective.

How? What loading do they see? A lateral rear strut bar I can understand' date=' but bars parallel to substantial existing metal doesn't make such obvious sense. Unless they're a failsafe to hold the rollhoop up... I also don't believe the rollhoop is allowed a diagonal, but I'll have to look into that - it seems a little ill-considered.[/quote'] I can't directly answer the loading question, but just to hold the hoop up is reason enough for me. Also seems strange the roll hoop wouldn't be allowed a diagonal - that's also a "failsafe" for a side roll, keeping the hoop from collapsing.

DON'T use a Flowmaster with a turbo. For one, they don't flow well, and two, they resonate horribly (chambered style). I hated my chambered muffler for those two reasons.

Like I said, if you are getting fuel, I don't think it's the CAS or the ECU. It sounds like a straight-forward ignition problem.

Yes, the factory rail is a loop. A friend of mine is just now setting up a bypass regulator setup, similar to a carbureted regulator setup, where the pressure line goes to the regulator first, and pressure is regulated there. A pressure line is then tee'd off to one end of the rail, and the other end is plugged. I believe he is using the same Aeromotive regulator you listed, and that is how Aeromotive recommended he plumb it - however, that's because of the regulator design. In theory this should work for fuel injection, but I don't know how well it works in practice, as he is not up and running yet.

I believe that if the CAS is bad, the ECU will not fire the injectors either. Are you getting fuel? If you are, your problem is not the CAS or the ECU. If not, it probably is the CAS, but it could be a bad ECU as well.

I assume you are trying to plumb a fuel injection setup in a L28 Z? Are you sure the regulator is a rising rate unit? I was not aware Aeromotive made one. I know they make linear rate regulators for carb setups and for fuel injection setups, which one do you have? A typical aftermarket fuel rail install for a fuel injection setup runs much like the factory system: The pump line passes through a filter to one end of the fuel rail, the other end of the rail connects to the pressure regulator, and the return from the regulator is plumbed to the fuel tank return. A pressure reference is then run from the plenum to the reference port on the regulator.