SleeperZ

I just saw a scam posted on Supraforums where an eBay'r pays $6.00 for an online service manual for a 1990 Supra. All they get is a link - already publicly accessible for FREE.

Are you running stock injectors? If so, you shouldn't have to mess with the AFM, and if not, what size? Even going from 260cc stock to 370cc, you may never tune all the richness out.

No it is not a simple plug and play. Personally, I took the long route and studied the wiring diagrams, then cut and resoldered all the harness ends, using the 280ZXT harness. If you are patient and meticulous you can get good results - mine has been trouble-free. If you are not into wiring, you can use the Z31 harness, possibly having to relocate the ECU to the passenger side - not a bad option IMHO. Other people have figured out how to use the 280ZXT harness as-is, with some connector modifications. A friend of mine tried that, and ended up connectiong the MAF backwards, and cooked the ECU - risky. None of the Nissan ECUs are speed-density. The L28 stuff (280Z, 280ZX, 280ZXT) all have the door-flap air flow meter, and the Z31s use a hot wire MAF for air measurement. This is a much less restrictive way to measure air - the door-flap is crap.

An old Hyundai Excel space saver spare works well. I carried one of those for a while, even used it once.

All you need to get a reliable, mustang spanking 250rwhp is get an intercooler and exhaust on a bone stock L28ET. A Z31 ECU and MAF will help, but the fuel system can be stock. I do just that with my setup, but I have an upgraded turbo(T3/TO4B V trim) and a Spearco intercooler. With 12 or 13 psi sea level, and that setup, you can run low 13s all day long, spanking the Mustangs.

Yes, it will bolt up fine, unless it's a turbo T5. $200 is not a bad price, especially if it's in good shape, but if you can pull it yourself you can usually get a better price.

That will truly be "1SickZ", sounds good.

That is a hoot! Sorry, no sympathy here...

Brake swaps and lug changes are among the most discussed and easily researched topics on this forum. I am using 280zx calipers and 4 lug z31 rotors on the front of my car, and I am fabricating a bracket to mount Maxima calipers and 280zx rotors on the rear. I have a '78Z. So, do some searches, and read up - there are MANY options.

Congratulations! Sounds like it's running well. I sure like my Z31 ECU conversion

The fuel injectors are fired from the ECU, not from the ignition module - they are separate systems. It is possible the distributor signal is not getting back to the ECU - that may be what you are thinking about. To test whether the injectors are being commanded to fire or not, you need to get a test lamp from the injector connector to a ground, and check to see that the lamp blinks on and off while cranking.

I can do all that just by pulling a few plug wires...weird.

For some reason I can't let this argument go. For the same amount of cooling' date=' electric fans put the same drag on the engine and take just as much HP. If you want to move a certain volume of air, then it takes a certain amount of HP to do that. The alternator runs off the same pully system as a mechanical fan so all of that energy comes from the engine. Where electric fans help is they can be turned off when not needed. Also keep in mind that 35 amps at 12 volts is only a little over a half HP. Thus electric fans can't be made to move as much air as a mechanical fan, they don't have as big of a drive motor. But, like I said, if your set up only needs as much air flow as an electric can provide, then that is all you need. Electric or mechanical, if you are moving more air than you need, you will be wasting HP. Personally when it comes to cooling I would rather have too much than too little.[/quote'] I'll take you up on that too... For highway driving AND track driving, at least with the temperature below 80, I turn my fan off. That is definitely LESS drag than a mechanical fan.

Wow, you are right - that is SWEET!

Well, I stand by what I said. I don't think the efficiency of the wheel has anything to do with the boost threshold, or how fast it spools. The E series compressors are large and need a good flowing turbine to be driven properly, so I'd drop the stock turbine if you want to run a TO4E wheel. If you think the 57 is a pig, the 50 will be just as bad or worse, IMHO.

Just because ONE turbo will be fully spooled at 3000 rpm on a 2 liter motor doesn't mean you will have that same performance with twin turbos on a 3.1 liter motor. As a matter of fact, if you take the flow capability of two of the T25/28s, and the same efficiency, and built it into one T3/TO4, you will get a better spool up, because the smaller turbos are being driven with just half the exhaust each.

Been done many times, the engine is more than capable. Get a good intercooler, hybrid turbo, fuel system and engine control, you can run low 12s or high 11s (with slicks) all day.

From what I've heard the E series wheels are hard to drive with a stock turbine. For street, perhaps the stage 3 turbine would be a better choice.

Heheh, not with 10AWG wire from the battery, through the fuse box and relay

I appreciate the input, but the system works fine with one pump, except I lose fuel pressure at boost with the RPM climbing. I have reached the limit of the one pump. And the fact the pressure is stable with two pumps at idle and cruising suggests to me it is not a flow problem, but a dynamic problem having to do with a rapidly changing pressure demand on the pair of pumps. Keep in mind the fuel flow actually goes down with an increase in pressure, so the greatest pump flow happens at idle. My fuel pressure did not increase when I plumbed in the second pump, indicating the return line is adequate. Indeed, I am currently trying to find a new SINGLE pump to do the job, I just wanted to put my experiences out there in case anyone else was contemplating using two cheap pumps instead of one good one.

I had a chambered muffler, and the resonation inside the car was awful. It worked alright for flow, but I recently installed a Dynomax Ultraflow muffler (3", NOT chambered), and I like the sound better - it is a little quieter, and not nearly as resonant inside the car. Of course it flows better too, but the old one was 2-1/2".

Running 14 psi boost, the 6s will be bleached white. The 7s remain a nice tan color.

These pumps have check valves built into the outlets, similar to stock pumps. Just seems like something in the flow dynamics, or possibly pressure waves in the way the outlets (or possibly inlets!) are T'd together. I would imagine I could keep futzing with it, install a dampener or two, and smooth it. Much easier to get rid of the dual crap, I'm sick of it already

My fuel pressure was dropping off at boost with RPMs climbing, so because I had no time to buy and take delivery of a single pump that will deliver the fuel, I plumbed two pumps together (high pressure Bosch units, flow 145 l/h at 60 psi each). At idle and cruising, I get a good constant fuel pressure, but as soon as I start putting load on it, my fuel pressure makes wild swings between 30 and 45 PSI, and naturally it starts hesitating and backfiring into the intake. Does this sound like the two pumps are fighting each other? I also took out the pressure dampener (damper ) as I needed the room. The pumps are both fed from the tank through a "Y", and both outlets are plumbed together into the stock hard fuel line. I'm sure the easiest way to fix it is to get one good pump, as I obviously can't run it at the strip today , my whole reason to do a rushed, ghetto job. Anyone looking to sell a fuel pump, like a T-Rex or a in-line Walbro 255hp?