SleeperZ

I don't have any pictures, but the FI manifolds mount the injectors on top angled down at the intake valve. To enable this, there is a half-moon notched out of the top of the intake port where the manifold mounts. The earlier heads, E31 and E88 were carbed and don't have this feature. I don't think it'd be tough to port it out though. Make sure to get an FI gasket as well.

Not completely sure on this, but I think the plastic tips are just to protect the injector tip on install - they don't affect the spray pattern. When I installed my 370cc injectors, I had to get rid of all the tips so they would fit in the manifold, and they seem to work just fine (I also flow tested them on the bench; the pattern looks good without the tips).

I believe you can use a 280Z manifold, however your head will no have the notches in the intake ports to support the spray pattern from the manifold. Either switch or modify the head.

Woohoo! Sounds good.

Yes.

Haha. Have some patience with the inline setup. It will serve you when you do an engine swap

I believe you'd be the first to try the VATN on a Z. I love the idea, best of luck.

Any engine you want, that's what makes the Z swap special. You dream it, you do it, in a Z!

Looks outrageous! Let us know if the traction gets any better, or if you still just spin... What tires are you using?

Without spending any money? Speed costs money, and usually economy does too. I would say a tuneup with good plugs and wires, along with a good cleaning of all your electrical connections would be money and effort well spent.

Exactly. That's how you would add a turbo a non-turbo car, and you didn't have a stock turbo manifold.

The turbo is part of the exhaust system. Exhaust is piped into the turbine of the turbo, then out the downpipe.

Personally TBS, I think it's a cool idea. The fact that the headbolts and cylinders line up makes the swap thinkable, and with a little plumbing work and front cover work it would be a beast. I'm not sure how you'd rig a tensioner up, but either a belt or the chain would be do-able. A good fabricator wouldn't have any trouble making motor mounts for a full RB swap, but a drop-in L28DET would be one of a kind.

Stock pump will put out 95 liters/hour at 50psi

Not hard at all if you can get the spindle pins out

Actually, it's a small 6 cylinder engine.

As far as I know, the seals are the same for all R200s. If anyone knows differently, speak!

Thanks, I really appreciate the input.

I'm hoping I can save someone else some aggravation and time with my recent experience... I got a turbo R200 (3.54), and I'm replacing all the seals and fabricating a mount for drag racing this season. I went to my local dealer for Nissan parts and found out I know just a little more about my car than any of the monkeys working there (John Elway Nissan ). I ordered a rear cover seal, a pinion seal, 2 side seals and a stock diff mount. I spent over an hour with the guy going over their computer listings and crappy diagrams trying to identify the parts. They came up with several numbers for rear cover seals, so I ordered both because they wore supposedly both for an R200 . We also came up with some numbers for the pinion and side seals, and got it all on order. I got the parts in. One of the cover seals was obviously for an R180 (and it referenced correctly for a 280ZX turbo doh!). The pinion seal was correct, but the side seals turned out to be pinion seals (more confusion). After re-ordering the side seals, I finally got in the right part. It took three weeks, all told. R200 Nissan part numbers: Rear cover gasket : 38320-N3111 Pinion seal : 38189-N3100 Side seals (2) : 38342-N3100 Stock diff mount : 55415-N4301 Don't go in to get stock parts without the numbers!

I am going to be selling 2 sets of wheels, one set with tires on eBay. What is your experience with shipping? I bought a pair of tires from the Tire Rack, and they just strapped them together, covered it in a clear plastic bag, and shipped FedEx freight. Anyone done that? Is the shipping cost lower? I suppose wheels should be boxed, just to avoid dinging and scratching....hmmm.

I am fairly clumsy at using the search engine yet, so I couldn't find what I'm looking for. The 280Z has a higher ride height from government imposed ride height requirements. The 240Z has a nice stock ride height. My 280 has 1" lower Eibach springs, and still sits up fairly high in the back - really, there is quite a rake. What component in the Z rear suspension is different between the 240 and 280 that determines the ride height? If it is just the top cap, maybe I can swap in a 240 unit to get a little bit lower and even out the ride height?

In theory I suppose it should work - the crank angle sensor in the distributor will give you a TDC trigger for every cylinder (the coarse signal, 6 per rotation). Adapting the signal levels would be easy, if you knew the requirements for the ignition box.

That looks like a nice little unit, and the price is not bad either...

That sounds "easy" other than the computer needing it for the injector timing No, the computer really couldn't care less - the injector timing is based only on the crank angle sensor. The ignition timing is based off the same reference - they are separate systems.