SleeperZ

The difference in the argument though, is you can take apart the oil filters and see the construction. I saw that link 3 years ago, and I've not bought a Fram filter since. The Purolators are not any more expensive - I use them for my Z and our Subaru.

Adjustable FPR.

For twin turbos, I believe balance is achieved with an exhaust balance tube connecting each turbine inlet. It will assure you have equal exhaust pressure behind each turbine. Then the compressor outlets are joined after the intercooler. There should then not be enough of a difference in actuators to create any serious flow imbalance.

Right on!

I agree for the most part with Len. You need a better pump - that stock one flat-out will not flow enough. Take your pick - the Walbro 255 hp is a good choice, or the Porsche application Bosch pump. The Cartech (Pierburg) will work well too, but it's a bit more money. Don't use the MSD. With a good pump, the stock fuel filter should be ok, as well as the stock regulator - the regulator will not cause you to run lean, rather if you are outflowing it, it will cause you to run richer at idle. It works just fine with the Bosch pump - I've run that combination. Your pinging could be either the injectors running out of duty cycle, or just that you don't have an IC. I suspect it's the lack of IC, as I put 250hp to the wheels with the stock injectors, but that was with a Z31 ECU. I highly doubt the restriction of a return line caused pinging (or lean-ness). All a restrictive return will do is raise your fuel pressure at idle and light loads. Of course, if he adjusted his base fuel pressure down because of the restriction, and not watched his fuel pressure drop when he loaded the engine, that could have caused his problem.

It think it was a T25 - way too small - it fit a 2.0 liter engine.

The one I've got is somewhat different - it has two buttons labeled Reset and Select, an LED in the display, and it's a 52mm gauge. It starts at 500C and goes up to 1150C. The model number is P6ET. But anything could be of help - if you have a manual for the one you have, maybe it's similar in it's wiring scheme..?

Oh give me a break - a TO-92 2N2222 transistor! Those will NEVER go away, they are the building blocks of the industry. I wouldn't worry about that part, someone will always make it - you can get those off-the-shelf at Radio Shack.

Nitrous is N2O. There is one oxygen atom bound to a pair of nitrogen atoms. This will not change, no matter what grade. Old thread, eh? It's a good one though. BTW, the Bosch high pressure pumps will operate at good flows over 100 psi. Nothing else like them, although the CIS injected turbo Porsches ran two hp pumps plumbed in series.

Yes, I think mine is probably over the top. This bad boy has 0.460 lift at the valves, and my exhaust valves were unshrouded a bit. Otherwise my ports are untouched. I'm anxious to re-dyno with the cam change ( and nothing else, except dialing in the same boost pressure) and see what it looks like.

Thanks Lockjaw, that'd be a help.

I have a Schneider 280-70F - it came from MSA. The lobe separation is 114, the duration is 280 intake, 270 exhaust (240/230 at 0.050" lift at the cam). It has a steep ramp on opening, so there is virtually no overlap (7* at 0.50" camlift). I had it installed 2 years ago, with stiffer valvesprings and new rockers, cost a pile of $$. At that time I was not running an intercooler, and wasn't boosted very high. It idled somewhat rough, but ran really nice up top - I kept hitting the fuel cut on the Z31 ECU at 6400 rpm. I still have the head, and I will probably re-install it later this summer after I get a baseline dyno'd with a stock head and the intercooler -- 15 psi boost. Be a good time to install ARP head studs and a Nissan gasket too..

I got one cheap off eBay, maybe there was a reason it was cheap.... Anyway, it has connectors and wiring off the back, but I can't find any information on wiring it. It has 2 connectors, a 3 pin at the bottom, with 2 wires (red and white). I am somewhat certain this is for the face illumination, and I can test that. The other connector has 4 pins, red, black, orange and yellow, and I can guess two are for the power and two are for the EGT probe... Does anyone know for sure? I found a manual for a Greddy on the web with similar features (memory recall of the peak), but that unit had a sender box. I am hoping this thing doesn't need it, or I've wasted $30.

Last season I was on the track at the same time as a Viper. I have the same or slightly better power to weight, and was able to keep up, and potentially pass the car (but it wasn't a race, and we weren't allowed to pass). The track is fairly twisty and not that high speed. This discourse should in no way be construed as even remotely objective to comparing the cars - I don't think the Viper driver was as experienced as I am, and to boot, the Viper had to pull off as it kept overheating. But for the money, the Viper damn well better be able to outhandle my stock Z, considering it cost 10x as much...

Sounds nice - if you can take some measurements of the wheels, you can determine the exact specifications. I'd be interested in what you have - it sounds like it'll really rock.

For the 3 bar instead of the 1 bar, smaller voltage increments for the same pressure change, or conversely, the same output voltage change represents a larger pressure change.

I'm sure the ECCS will take some timing out based on airflow - airflow vs. rpm will give a very clear picture of load to the ECU.

The main difference between the sensors is resolution. Assuming the sensors all have the same full-scale output, say 5V, a 1 Bar will have more output voltage change for a certain pressure change than a 3 Bar. The one bar will effectively sense full vacuum to sea level absolute pressure. The 2 Bar will sense from full vacuum to approximately 15 psi, and the 3 Bar to approximately 30 psi. 1 Bar = 14.7 psi. By using the 3 Bar over the 1 Bar, you will be reading only 1/3 of the full scale, so you may get rougher increments of pressure readable by your fuel computer, and it may not be as smooth in running or tuning.

If I'm not mistaken the NPR has 2-3/4" inlets?? I agree with Lockjaw, no reason to go bigger than the IC inlet and outlet. In defense of small pipes, Shane ran high 11's at 115-119 traps with 2" tubing and a stock throttle body. I am running the same IC now, with 2" from the turbo to the IC, and take 2" out and gradually open it up to my 60mm throttlebody, which is bigger than 3" on the inlet. So don't get too hung up on pipe restriction, it's not going to make that much difference.

Sounds like the hoses are leaking. When my 280Z was stock it got awesome MPG, like 25 - 26 on the highway. I never understood why, when I'd stomp on it, it would pop into the intake. I had it diagnosed 6 ways to Sunday. Mechanics told me to replace the AFM, check the fuel pressure, fix vacuum leaks, pumped in the injector cleaner, never had any effect on it's condition. Anyway, the injectors started leaking after a while, and I replaced the set. WOW! The car woke up! No more popping, it would get up and go. MPG dropped like a rock, down close to 20, but it sure ran nice after that. I actually tested the old injectors for flow - they had horrible spray patterns, and flowed significantly less fuel than the replacements (stock injectors). Moral of the story...sometimes bad injectors = good mileage. Next week: When GOOD spark plug wires go BAD!

I don't mean anything by it, just NOx is oxides of nitrogen produced by lack of an EGR. I've also seen folks identify it with NO2, which is nitrogen dioxide. The chemical formula for nitrous oxide is N2O.