SleeperZ

From his picture, it looks like he's still using them He adapted the Z31 stubs into the 240Z control arm and hub.

Well, if injectors are firing, and you have no signal to the coil, it sounds like your ECU may have a blown driver. If you have a DVM, put it in diode mode and measure the coil transistor to ground - you should get a short beep, and measure 0.5-0.8 volts - that will rule out a bad transistor causing your ignition driver to fail. If your transistor checks outs, try to get another ECU to test in circuit, see if it drives the ignition.

The airflow meter measures the air - it will measure more, and fuel the extra air appropriately. The throttlebody by itself is not that big of a restriction. If you want lots more airflow, port the head, get a cam and a programmable fuel computer without an airflow meter - that you will need bigger injectors for. The stock injectors are good for 160-180 hp easy.

In GENERAL, a single turbo will be more streetable, spool faster, and the intake will be easier to plumb. Twins are generally used on a V motor to ease the cross-plumbing of the exhaust, and perhaps counter-intuitively, spool slower for the same total flow capability. It is possible to get huge amounts of power out of each, but for very high flow rates, two small turbos will be cheaper than a large one. Either route you choose, you will get into 11's with EASE - I don't know how reliable the stock 5.0 is, but if a L28ET can do it stock, why shouldn't a 5.0 be able to?

As far as I know, pry out the old, press in the new - that's what I did. Grease the inside lip of the seal, and insert driveshaft - there is no marking (the shaft end is splined, no way is it matched at the factory). Your new shaft should be balanced, just install it.

You have CVs on your ZX n/a? I thought only the turbos had CVs, the n/a had U-joints like the Zs... And unless you have an automatic tranny, you should have an R200, same type of diff as the turbos.

Boost pressure is not a measurement of airflow. 12 psi on a stock T3 will produce less power than 12 psi on a more efficient turbo because the air is cooler. Cooler air will produce more power because it is denser (more of it) and you can run more timing, as cooler air will help inhibit detonation.

The transistor is an NPN, requiring 1 volt forward drop to turn on the current through the coil. It will have to drop to 0 in order to shut the coil off and fire the ignition. Not sure of the color or pin, but that is the ignition signal from the ECU. If you have a test lamp, disconnect the wire from the transistor and put the test lamp across it, then check for a flashing as you crank. This will isolate the problem to either the transistor (get flashing) or the ECU or it's inputs (no flashing).

Sweet! Good luck - that will really make your machine come alive!

Audiophiles? Just MHO, but a truly good sound system will not be found in a car. My Z has a turbocharged straight six sound system with a Dynomax speaker.

The Typhoon/Syclone AWD drivetrain will not handle the power, at least under the orginal body - all the fast folks convert to RWD.

Fur? (sigh)

I wired in a real fusebox from an old Mazda - I couldn't stand the ugly, decaying fusible link crap. I replaced the link covers once, and they disintegrated within a year.

I take it back about the -3 fittings and hose. Summit doesn't list in their catalog, but the part numbers show up in their on-line catalog. It is just more expensive than -4... So, -3 without a restrictor should work well for a stock T3 turbine? I also plan to plumb my fuel pressure gauge to the base of the windshield (temporarily), and -3 should work for this as well.

Sorry - I've never been a fan of the 4 seater ZXs, but I especially do not like the supra look for that car. The wheels are WAY too small for the large fender openings, and the hood scoop makes me nauseous . I don't mind purple, but I can't look at that car for long. No offense to the owner, just not my style.

That looks really nice. Post more pics when it's painted!

I was looking for the post describing an aftermarket oil supply line for a turbo. I think someone mentioned -3 line as being the perfect size (not needing a restrictor), but -3 stuff seems to be scarce. If I were to use -4, what is the proper restrictor size for the stock turbine and stock (L28ET) oil pressure?

I'll measure it next time I get the car on the road - probably this weekend. I expect it won't be, since I've reduced the air through it by installing it in a bigger housing. I ran 14psi with the stock injectors and stock housing - I may have been maxxing it out then. I'd love to try some code out too - I have an '86 turbo ECU, just like you were using, so pm me and we can work something out.

Oh, and by the way, you shouldn't have to worry about voltage to drive the transistor to the coil driver. Transistors are current-fed devices - as long as you have enough current, and not too much (resistor limited), all you need is about 1 volt to drive that sucker.

i can honestly say that the driveshaft loop is very good to have Yeah - the shop that built my driveshaft also says it'll take everything I throw at it. That's reason enough

Are you confusing A/R with trim? A/R is the housing spec and the trim has to do with the wheel characteristics...least that's what I thought. Are you talking about a 50 trim with a .5 or .6 A/R housing, or a 60 trim wheel with the .5 or .6 housing?

The rest. The distributor is quite different, but the electrics are the same, 280ZXT, Z31 and Z31T