SleeperZ

That sounds like a contradiction to me. If you have a bigger turbine and clipped blades, you will get more flow, but the spool will be SLOWER.

Cool! I only have to pass once more this year, then classic plates and no more emissions test for me either!

Bump! Confirmation? Am I smoking crack?

I don't understand how the load characteristics of a dyno would create a mistune where you would run leaner on the street...but if you dialed it on the dyno to a gnat's a$$, I can see how the real world would create marginal conditions like IC heat soak, or other heat soak issues that wouldn't show on a short dyno pull. That sounds like the type of dyno tuning the sterotypical Supra tuner would do, just to get a high number. I wouldn't call that tuning ON the dyno, that's tuning FOR the dyno

So basically, you are using an 88mm piston? And factory rods with prep are reputed to handle 600hp (WAY overbuilt, just the way I like it), but I understand about the custom thing. Stroker turbo is very nice - good luck with it.

I posted this today as an update. I also posted some pictures on Zdriver (sleeper78z) a little while ago. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20897

Got my new air filter on last night, and I've been driving the freeways doing 3rd and 4th gear pulls. I wish my EGT was working, and I also WISH I had a wideband O2, but I am making do so far. I have a new fuel rail with 370cc SVO injectors and a Z31 ECU (stock '86 turbo) with a MAF element installed in a 3-1/2" intake pipe. I'm running 45psi base fuel pressure (a little more than I calculated would be necessary) and it seems to be running a little rich at idle and WOT, low boost. So a little extra is a good thing for testing. I cranked it up and pulled 16 psi boost (that's 14 psi for you sea level folks), and it pulls like a frickin' train! However, with the boost set solidly, as RPMs rise to 5000 and a little past, my fuel pressure is starting to drop (I need a gauge that reads more than 60psi!). So I back out of it. I will wire in a second Bosch high pressure pump, and possibly install the largest orifice in the AEM FPR to accomodate the extra flow down low. But at this point I am calling the winter OVER, and I am almost ready to take it to the strip~! Once the second pump is in, I hope to get the boost up to 18-20 psi this year.

I don't know what the size of the L20ET injectors are, however since they came off a turbo engine, albeit a small one, I'd bet they flow more than the stock n/a L28 injectors. But that's just a guess. I suggest doing a search on the internet for fuel injector flow tables. There are a few out there with a lot of information, and most of them are Aussie-based. For reference, I believe the L28 stockers are 180cc/min, and the L28ET are 260cc/min.

27mm is the proper socket, but 1-1/8" is just as good.

Yo, I've not heard of a factory wastegate actuator that gives that much boost stock. Maybe it is defective if you still get 15psi with no pre-tension on the rod. BTW, how does that turbo fit underneath your manifold? It looks like the actuator cannister interferes, as it sits above the turbine housing....

I am running a factory Z31 ECU - Nissan's acronym for the unit is ECCS. I ran my 13s with a stock fuel system and intercooler boosted to 14 psi (equivalent to 12 psi or so, sea level). I ran my times with a 3.90 on my T5. Yes, 1st is too short, but I'm swapping back to a 3.54, which is roughly equivalent to the 81-83 tranny with a 3.90. At the end of the strip I am getting close to the top of fourth gear -- as far as I'm concerned, that is the only ratio that counts.

It sounds like semantics differences here to me. You said you had an ignition SIGNAL to drive the ignition. That comes from the ECU which controls spark advance. When you said you had this signal, and the 280ZXT coil/transistor was not working, I affirmed the Z31 coil/transistor will work. When I say TRIGGER, I am talking about the transistor driver near the coil. Some of your earlier posts indicated that you did not have a signal from your 280ZXT ECU to drive the coil, in which case it won't matter what coil/transistor you have, you have no signal to drive it. Then you either have to repair the ECU, or run a stand-alone ignition that controls your spark advance. The Z31 ECCS system is very similar to the 280ZXT ECCS.

It's an ugly duckling for sure, but a rust-free 1970?? Hang on to it, especially a RHD one.

Well, just the coil is useless. But go pull the whole thing off an old Z31, the '84 and '85 N/As are just littering my scrapyards. It has a transistor trigger just like the 280ZXT, hell it's probably the same part.

Now THAT'S the ticket to wake up a Fire-o!

What's wrong with 15 psi ?? Are you talking about a wastegate? What kind? WB? It sounds like it has an adjustable length actuator rod? Are you taking all the tension out of it to reduce the boost? If so, maybe there is something wrong with it if it's supposed to be like a stock Nissan at 5-6 psi...

Before you bring out the shotgun, and go for new injectors, please check your ignition timing once more. You might have the sequence right, but you could be 180 degrees out. I've done it myself - aligned #1 terminal on the cap with the rotor at #1 TDC, but it was the wrong #1 TDC (exhaust stroke, not compression stroke). And I also say this because I've NEVER seen all 6 injectors go so far gone as to not fire at all. If your ignition truly is correct, checks out fine, then pull off the fuel rail without disconnecting the hoses, and crank that to see if you get spray out of the injectors (keep a fire extinguisher handy ) Good luck. Edit -- OOPS, posted before I read the second page, my bad... And the temp sensor is a good suggestion - if it falls off, the car will not run AT ALL. A guy I know running at the track had that happen, we were scratching our heads, and said, what's that wire hanging off? Hehe.

No doubt about it, that looks like a nice setup! What's a 3.43 R200 LSD out of?

No worries then! Use the Z31 coil and trigger - I like it better, and you don't have to worry about the +coil feedback to the ECU - just hook up the ignition signal, a good ground, and the black/white power wire.

Mudge, if you can't get an ignition signal out of your 280ZXT computer, the Z31 won't help. It is very close to the same ECU setup. I am using the Z31 coil and trigger - it's not an ignition module, as such, but just a coil and trigger like your ECU.

That would work well for a rear-mid engine swap, as it has a transaxle like a fiero or MR2. Be a whole lot of work for only 240 hp.