wheelman

I rode in a 240 with a 280ZXT engine and a Subaru 3.70 R160 LSD in it this last weekend. It pulled like a train from about 2500RPM. First gear was a little low but it made for great launches and once into second things happened real fast. Not sure how a 3.54 gear set would compare but for a cheap LSD with a good gear ratio it's tough to beat that Subaru R160. To use the R160 you will need half-shafts with the older 240Z bolt in type flanges. Wheelman

I don't think it's even possible to use a Camaro slave with the stock Datsun clutch setup, the slave cylinder mount points are totally different. Get rebuild kits for the master and slave, especially if you are only going to use them for a few months. Wheelman

I did fairly well at my event also. The local club groups all prepared and modified classes together which makes for a tough class. Unfortunately there aren't many cars that show but it's still fun. On Sat there were 4 cars and Sun only 3 and I came in second behind an Evo 8 on race tires both days. The owner is one of the local club regulars and has national level experience so I don't feel to bad. Sat. was kinda cold and the first outing since the new springs, camber plates and LSD so I was still getting used to the car. Sun. I placed 10th overall in raw time but PAX just kills me. The changes to the suspension, the LSD and the new Falken RT-615s have really changed the personality of the car. I used to have to fight to keep traction and got a bit frustrated with it, now it's a pleasure to drive and has a lot more potential for speed than I was able to use. It will still get loose in a corner with too much throttle but it takes a lot more now and it will set and go much earlier exiting than it did before. Wheelman

The LS1 tank lines also point the wrong direction but I took advantage of that and routed them along the right side frame back there and mounted the fuel filter to the rail. I was also able to use the snap on fuel line connectors from the original lines to connect my new high pressure rubber hose the the tank fittings. Wheelman

What were you searching for when you found that one? On second thought we really don't want to know. Wheelman

Maybe they didn't want to do the work and priced it accordingly. Some garages with a good local rep will do that figuring you'll either pony up and they get extra or you go else where and they avoid a PITA job. Don't under estimate the level of aggrevation you'll encounter pulling that motor mount to replace the boot it blocks access to, especially considering you don't have a garage to work in. Get yourself mentally prepared to spend all day on it. How much are you paying for the new fuel rail and injectors? Wheelman

Not to hi-jack the thread but where in Idaho are you from m1noel? I grew up in northern Idaho, St. Maries to be exact. It's very near Cour De Alene if you haven't heard of it. Deja, Sounds like you've got it all under control, you should take some pictures to document the swap. I think you're the first to use that generation of Camaro tank. Wheelman

That sounds like a really fun trip, are you going down there for it? My wife and I have talked about taking one of those cross country train tours some time but they are a bit spendy and we haven't been able to make the time. Maybe for our 25th wedding anniversary. Wheelman

Yes I flipped mine around so the filler is on the correct side. I just posted a short report about not having any fuel starvation issues at an Auto-X event I just attended. I started the weekend with about 1/2 tank and ended running on fumes with no fuel issues what so ever. Based on this I'd say that it really doesn't matter which direction these LS1 F-Body tanks are mounted. I don't have any pictures of the rear of the car or the process of installing the tank. I'm really bad about not taking progress pictures, I get so involved in getting it done I just forget. I will take some pictures but it may be a few days, my camera is busted (fell off the back of the car) so I'll need to borrow my daughter's. Will you have to remove the spare tire well to install the older tank? What is it's capacity? Are you having it boiled out before installation? Have you checked it for rust? Wheelman

Deja, Is the tank you're installing from an LS1 F-Body (1999 - 200X)? Mine is from a 2001 Camaro and bairly hangs below the rear valance. I used 1 x 2 tubing to build the mount frame and put it as high as possible after removing the spare tire well. I still have enough room to get my hand between the rear deck floor and the top of the tank but it's a tight fit. Wheelman

How would swapping the motor with the boost leaks to another car help? Get a documented estimate from them before making a decision. A phone conversation will not stand up in court if there is any reason it might go there plus you want to know exactly what you'd be paying for before the work starts. What shape is the rest of the car in? Are you capable of doing the work yourself? It might be an option to pay the shop for the diagnostic work and then do the repair work yourself. Wheelman

It sounds like you've basically resolved things but here is something to think about that no else has mentioned. The tires were not sold to him but to his new GF so she's the one you need to be after for the money. Just from the the comments about how he's been acting since hooking up with her it sounds like she's going to be a negative influenece in his life, at least until he kicks her to the curb. Be patient, if it's not to late, when he wakes up to what a HO she is maybe he'll realize how he did you wrong and make it right. In the mean time I'd keep a discreet distance and if he comes looking for the stand, then mention it was a trade for those tires unless he coughs up the $125.00 his GF owes you. Wheelman

I just wanted to give a little report of how the 2001 F-body fuel tank I have in my Z performed this last weekend. I attended a local Auto-X event that lasted both Sat and Sun. Started out with about half a tank on Sat and did not refill for Sunday's laps so by the time the weekend was over I was running on fumes. I never once experienced fuel starvation with this setup even during the last run which was my fastest of the entire weekend. The course setup favored HP vs handling but had a very tight set of elements at the beginning. There was one straight section where I glanced at the speedo and was running close to 75mph. Based on the experience I had I would recommend the LS1 F-Body fuel tank swap to anyone running EFI that wants to race and not worry about fuel starvation problems. Wheelman

All I have to say about that style is Wheelman

Cyrus, Have you added any aero items to the body work? Air Dam, rear spoiler, wing, whale tail, etc. If not you're experiencing the natural lift the Z has at speed. If you have added aero items then I'm not sure what would cause the floaty feeling, you didn't add power steering did you? What tires are you running and have you had it aligned? Wheelman

I think having the bleeder nipple as high as possible is probably the only real good argument for connecting it the way you have it Deja. After looking at all the diagrams I agree with Piston, it could be hooked up either to the upper or lower hose, except that the higher the connection the better the air will be purged from the system. I'm half tempted to find one of those F-Body bleeder T-fittings except I hate working with coolant and I'd have to drain part of the system to hook it up. Wheelman

I can take some rear pictures. I had to roll my rear wheel wells and trim a small amount from the wheel well part of my air dam in front to prevent rubbing. Have you done much actual looking for sizes larger than 225 in a 16" rim? I wanted to run 40 or 45 series tires in 225 width but had a very hard time finding any tires in that size. I considered going to 245 but now that I've got the 225s I'm glad I didn't try, they woould have been too wide and a real pain to mount. Edit: I am running 1.5" adapter/spacers with the rims I have. This may be part of the reason I had a rubbing problem. Before I converted to coilovers I had about 1/4" clearance between the tire and spring so couldn't really use a smaller spacer. Wheelman

I'm running 225/50-16 Falken RT-615 Azenis on 7" wide rims. The guys at the tire shop had a fun time getting them on so I would say 245s would be pushing it especially in a 45 profile. Which tires are you thinking of running? Some manufactures will push the size specs so one tire may be wider and/or taller than another of the "same" size, consequently if you want to maximize your tire size you should check with a shop that sells the tire you're interested in. Wheelman

I would think the flow of coolant into the radiator would pull any air from the steam hose into the upper radiator hose. Once there it "should" go into the radiator and be purged into the overflow tank. Does that make sense? Wheelman

Bart, After looking very closely at that diagram it appears the steam hose connects to the top of the right side radiator tank. The hose that is connecting to the top radiator appears to come from the water pump so now I'm confused. Maybe thats the tranny cooler hookup for the F-body cars. In the original configuration of my LT1 the steam hose went to the throttle body then to the expansion tank to be recirculated. The expansion tank is now gone and the steam hose is not connected to the throttle body so I hooked the steam hose to the hot return to the radiator. I figured this was better than putting hot steam/water into the cooled water coming from the radiator. Wheelman

Mattster03, The mount tower we are refering to is the Datsun motor mount tower that is part of the crossmember. The JTR (jagsthatrun.com) mounting method uses plates that move the GM motor mounts forward relative to the engine mount points about 4" and spacers. This places the mount right about where your alternator is located and also means the alternator will hit the Datsun mount tower as well. The other popular mounting method (Scarab) uses 2" spacers (I think) to move the GM mounts out from the block (not forward) so they contact the Datsun mount towers. This method places the engine much further forward and higher so your kit would probably work fine with it. I looked very hard at doing something like you have because I wanted to eliminate the accessory bracket (no PS and no AC) but couldn't get it to work due to the mounts interfering. March makes a bracket that mounts the alternator right in front of the passenger side head but you have to use a small alternator and clock the housing so the plug is accessible. That along with the price of the brackets helped me decide to go another direction. Wheelman

Deja, I'm pretty sure that steam hose T-fitting goes in the hose that connects to the top of the radiator. It allows the hot steam to enter the top of the radiator with the hot water coming out of the block VS. being added to the cooled water coming from the radiator. Anyone, Please correct me if I'm wrong here as I have mine hooked up with the steam hose connected to the top radiator (inlet) hose. I haven't had problems with it but if it's wrong I want to get it changed before I do. Wheelman

Pop, It's not that it will hit the frame rail but the mount tower. I tried to go this direction with mine and there is really no way to do it and use the JTR setup at the same time, at least without using 3" to 4" long spacers to move the alt and harmonic balancer forward far enough to clear the mount tower. Wheelman

If it were me I'd steer clear of that auction. No info on the actual state of the motor (it spins and doesn't stink, so what) and does not accept PayPal so no consumer protections. Sounds like a scam to me and you'll end up with an RB20 block full of garbage parts. Wheelman

I found both the Haynes and Chiltons manuals to be a waste of paper. I have a haynes for my Z and my daughter bought a chiltons for her Mustang. Invariably it works out that the one piece of information I need is not there or is wrong. I snapped 2 ball joint bolts trying to torque them to the specs called for in my Haynes, turns out the correct torque was 20lbs/in and the manual called for 40. A manual you can't trust is worse than useless. I don't use my haynes for anything. Both these series of manuals are published by the same company and in my opinion are junk, but you know what is said about opinions (They're just like a$$holes, everybody has one and it usually stinks). Wheelman