wheelman

It's been a while so I'll have to trace the wires out and post it. Do you have the 140Amp Alternator? The connections are different for some of the GM alternators. Have you searched the thread here on HybridZ? This subject has been discussed a couple times and I think I described my final solution in one of those threads. Wheelman

I used a 95 Caprice motor. Did you guys grab the fuse block from the engine compartment? If not you should have, it contains the fuses and relays you'll want for the fuel pump and fan(s) as well as the fuses for all the engine bay circuits. I basically connected +12, +12 switched and ground to this and that took care of most of the integration with the Datsun harness. The alternator is a different story better left for scary bedtime stories. JK It took me a while to figure it out and totally drained the battery several times because it wasn't being charged. Edit: My Caprice was a 9C1 model with the 140 amp alternator, may be different from what you guys have. The 2 knock sensors actually feed into 1 pin at the PCM, if you remove one you'll need to compensate for the change in resistance so the remaining sensor will work correctly. You also should have grabbed the OBDI test port connector from inside the car. I didn't use it but if you ever want to take the car to a shop to have the codes reset or read you'll need it. I have TunerCat and DataMaster so I used a DB9 RS-232 connector. One thing I learned was it's a bad idea to run the power for the engine bay fuse block through the Datsun Amp meter. I wired it this way at first but way to much current is drawn when the fan kicks on and the wires under the dash got extremely hot. Wheelman

Phantom, Welcome to the NorthWest, I'm sure you'll like it here. I know there are a couple Z guys here in the Tri-Cities, WAGZ being one, but I haven't met any of them yet. Maybe it's time to call an Eastern WA HybridZ get together so we can all look over each other's rides and have a beer or two. We should try to plan something for early spring I guess, the winters up here can be unpredictable and my Z doesn't see daylight until March or April depending, besides it still looks like a rolling disaster and I'll have more time to make it presentable. Congrats on the new job, sorry you were forced into making the change. I've been through a similar situation and it really sucks. Wheelman

Wow Mike, you directly quoted the thoughts that ran through my mind as I read SavageSkaterKid's post. Must be that fathers of young men all have the same thought patterns and experiences with their sons. SavageSkaterKid, Listen to what Mike said and think hard about it. Your Dad bought you the car and chances are won't make you pay it all back, especially the main seal repair. So if you dislike the car so much and thought the deal your Dad made you sucked why did you drive it? Seems to me you accepted it by using the car. So now you plan to abuse the car even more until it really dies then throw it away. This makes sense how? BTW it won't hurt your Dad but if he makes you pay it all back, and I would if you insist on driving it until it dies, it will hurt your personal finances. So take a little time, let the car sit, cool down and think logically about the best course of action, then talk it over with your Dad. If he sees you've put some thought into solving your problem he'll listen to what you have to say, but be willing to listen to his viewpoint and compromise with him to solve your problem. Wheelman

Uh, I've been told just the opposite. I was told that the closer coils go on top to reduce the unsprung weight when they are compressed. So there you go, leave it and feel good about it or switch it and feel good about it. Wheelman

I broke several of the ones holding the fenders on, they were rusted pretty bad. Just drilled them out and welded a new nut on the back side. Wheelman

How do you have fully adjustable suspension and still use the Tokico springs? As far as I know there are very few camber plates that work with stock diameter springs and those that do don't give much adjustment range. Are you using other methods to adjust caster/camber and ride height? If so what are they? I used those springs and don't have enough travel in the front due to the extra weight of the V8. I'll probably switch to coil-overs sometime in the future, when I do I'll also add caster/camber plates and adjustable struts. I should have gone that way right from the start. Wheelman

I don't think anyone will be banned from this site for asking or discussing EMP related questions, but I'm not an admin so I don't count. No one is on HooHaa for asking about being IP banned or EMP hardening his car, although it's far enough out there that it's a bit hard to resist a little needling, especially when Hollywood physics is brought into the discussion. I for one have better things to spend my time and money on than hardening my car. If HooHaa is concerned enough and wants to attempt it then I think it's interesting enough to watch his progress and discuss it with him. If you'll note I was one of the first to give him some useful advice and real information regarding hardening against EMP. No hard feellings!?!?! As for EMP generators, it's possible to build one but very expensive and difficult to generate a pulse large enough to cause damage beyond a very small radius. Wheelman

Tim's site has info on how he did it, at least it used to anyway. I tried following Tim's instructions to gut mine and couldn't get the retaining clip out either, so I gave up and fabbed a bracket with 2 idler pulleys to replace the AC and PS. I can't see why looping the input to output wouldn't work, should just circulate the fluid with very little resistance as no pressure will be built up. BTW: The F-Body accessory mount does clear the hood with plenty of room to spare, so does the B-Body accessory mount. Wheelman

This thread is so full of high end science it just makes me laugh. To think you guys are refering to War of the Worlds (stupid movie, bad science, pathetic acting) in an attempt to figure out how to prevent an EMP from frying your car's circuits. What next, Back to the Future to build an ESP machine? bjhines hit the nail on the head, unless every part of the entire ciruit is shielded the shielding will not be affective, even if the starter cable is disconnected. Let's assume a terrorist pops a nuke and the initial blast doesn't kill you, the car is sheilded and you have a full tank of gas. Now you drive around until the gas is low? Where are you going to get more gas, all the power circuits in the area of the EMP will be dead, no power to run the pumps, no gas to run the shielded car. Does the movie Road Warrior ring a bell? Oh but they had power to run the refinery didn't they, must have been a while after the EMP and the power systems had been repaired. Not to mention the problem you'll have even driving around in the vacinity of a nuclear blast, people everywhere, lots of destruction and confusion, fallout, etc... Gets a little absurd after a while doesn't it. Me personally, I want to be at ground zero if we get into a nuclear war. Survival in whats left would really suck. Edit: Woldson, I got such a kick out of reading your post I just had to edit mine. I'd not considered converting the control circuits to tubes but it's brilliant!!! Only solve the heat and power consumption problems and it would work. Wheelman

HooHaa, In order to shield against EMP you need to add metal cladding to the entire wiring harness so the EM pulse wave won't generate a current spike as it passes over the wires. If you don't understand this do a little research on what happens in a wire when it's exposed to an alternating magnetic field. This is how a generator works and why it's a very bad idea to put conductive metal in a Microwave oven. Not sure why you want to shield for EMP though, you're not a terrorist looking to build a getaway car that will survive a nuke are you? JK One other thing to consider is that eventually your IP will change so their ban will not be affective, that is unless you have a static IP. bjhines, Just a guess on my part but I doubt a Mega-Squirt unit is going to produce enough EMI to be detectable over that which is generated by the coil and spark-plug discharges. The guys who run the MS project are all above board guys and may have a problem with HooHaa's IP because of a prior visitor to their site who was assigned the same IP HooHaa is now using, or one in the same range. Wheelman

I have to second 80LT1's advice, GO WITH THE LT1!!!!! They are great engines, can be had relatively cheap and the EFI is not that hard to work with, especially if you get a 95 with the OBDI that can be flashed without removing a chip. The only drawback I've found is smaller aftermarket support, therefore higher LT1 specific parts prices. Wheelman

Jon, I was stationed at McClellan AFB while in the service so lived in Sac for almost 7 years back in the 80s and 90s. I liked it well enough that I'd move back if the job took me there. That being said, the job would require much better compensation than I get now to account for the higher housing costs (and they are higher regardless of the bubble bursting) and the additional state income taxes Cali hits you with. Wheelman

One thing I think has been lost in the discussion with Dr_Hunt is that he is running alcohol which requires a much larger volume of fuel than gasoline. So when he says hes running -10 or -12 lines remember it's alcohol and gas won't need lines as large for the same engine. Granted the alcohol engine will be producing more power but will need more fuel to do it. Wheelman

The feed line in the 240Z tank is 5/16" which is to small especially when you consider the inline pump will have to draw a siphon to get the fuel up out of the tank. I had a 240 tank with a sump that had two 3/8" outlets that fed my Walbro 255lph inline pump but the line running from the sump to the pump was routed around the end of the tank so it went up then back down. This caused the pump to get pretty noisy if the tank was close to empty and the car would run like $hit. Anyway I replaced the 240 tank with an LS1 Camaro tank (more to eliminate the leaks than because of the pump) and have not had the problem when the fuel level is low. I used 3/8" feed and return lines and with the Datsun tank used the original 5/16" feed connection at the tank as the return. Hope this makes sense and answers the original question about the size of the feed connection on the 240 tank. One last thing, I would not go any smaller than 3/8 line on feed and return. Wheelman

That240Guy, If you decide to go with the Wilwood 3/4" master I've got one I'll sell you. It has the 1.4" throw but the fitting is for a double flare connection. I just pulled it from my 240 and replaced it with a Tilton 15/16". The Wilwood is in great condition just wasn't big enough for the stock Camaro slave I'm using. I'll let you have it for $25.00 plus shipping. edit: Come to think of it I'm pretty sure I've still got the -3 AN fitting that was include in the Tilton kit, I'll include that with the Wilwood if I do, it should fit. Wheelman

I just want to correct one thing Pop said in his post. The back of the diff will not lift the front will. Thats why those of us with high HP motors end up ripping the front diff mount relatively quickly, it's also why JTR suggested using wire rope to hold it down. Pop is correct about it's affect on the driveline angles and that it will cause vibration until the front of the diff drops, if it does. I experienced this myself and when I used the wire rope trick the vibration and wheel hop during burnout disappeared. I do intend at some point in the future to convert to the Ron Tyler front diff mount setup but for now things are working good. If I was in the middle of the project again I'd take the time to do the Ron Tyler mount instead of putting it together then taking it back apart to redo it. Wheelman

I tried giving one away as well complete with the transmission. Ended up taking it the local metal recycler. Wheelman

When I first installed my LT1/T5 I used a Wilwood 3/4" master cylinder with the stock Camaro slave. I found I had to cut the stop from the floor of the car to get enough pedal travel to disengage the clutch, and then it just barely worked. I just finished installing a Tilton 15/16" master and want to report that it is a bit stiff but makes for a short throw. The engage/disenage is much quicker than with the 3/4" so slipping the clutch on launch takes bit of practice but shifts are faster. I think a good comparison is a Ford pickup clutch. Relatively stiff with short a engage/disengage throw and you have to be aware of when the clutch starts to grab and be ready to rev the engine or you'll kill it. I bought a Nascar unit with the round casting lugs machined off. The whole kit was $50.00 shipped to my door. It installed very easily, fit right on the stock Datsun mounting studs. I had already modified the clevis for the Wilwood shaft so it fit right on the Tilton. My experience with it has been good and I'd recommend the 15/16" for use with the Camaro slave if you don't mind a relatively stiff pedal with a short throw. Wheelman

rudypoochris, Are you building a crossmember to brace the motor mounts? If not do a search through the old posts from guys who've installed mounts the way you have and read what they have to say about the stress placed on the frame rails. Alsil reported his started to twist from the engine torque so he designed the crossmember mount he sells. Wheelman

I used the tilted bellhousing with mine and had to "clearance" the tunnel just a bit where the shift fork is located. It sticks out quite a ways and at the end of it's stroke would contact the tunnel. I would imagine the vette bell will have the same if not worse problem as the slave ends up higher in the tunnel. Edit: The shifter also ends up tilted toward the driver which forced me to cut the hole to provide enough space for my short throw B&M unit. I'd do a little research to se if a vette bell can be had for a reasonable price and then decide, but there's alot to be said for using a part you've already got. As for the price, DAMN $900.00. If I'd known they were that high I'd have considered pulling mine and selling it. I found mine 2 years ago on ebay after a 3 month search. Got it for $275.00 shipped to my door, the catch is the seller said it was from an 83 Camaro but when I had him check the tag it showed it was from an 89 TransAm special edition. I have no idea how many miles are on it but it has definitely been opened. I plan on rebuilding it in two years or so depending on whether it blows up sooner. Thinking real hard about having dog-ring gears installed to speed up the shifts. Wheelman

Silicon Boy, I think what I refered to as the fuel-oxygen sensor is the same thing you called a fuel composition sensor. They use the oxygen level in the fuel stream to determine the ethanol/gasoline mixture level. It's possible to get them for less than $600.00 but you gotta do some looking. Remember back in the mid 90s when gasohol was first offered? It had an ethanol content of about 15%. I had a Ford pickup at the time with a 302 in it I'd built for drag racing. The car I was going to put it in was totalled one night when I was rear ended on the way home from work. Anyway I ran gasohol in the truck and for about 6 months it ran great and loved the higher octane, plus it was jetted to rich on just gas. After the 6 months or so the alcohol had eaten the fuel lines, corroded the tank, ruined the o-rings in the carb and the diaphram in the pump. I didn't know better at the time or I wouldn't have used the gasohol. If you run E85 make sure all the fuel system is rated for it otherwise you'll eventually have problems. Wheelman

Depending on the fuel requirements of your vehicle and the capacity of it's stock injectors Megasquirt would be able to compensate. When I checked into using Megasquirt on my Z to get FlexFuel capabities I found that the ECU would increase the injector duty-cycle by 54% assuming pure E85 was in the tank. So if your injectors can flow enough fuel to meet the demands with an increase of 54% then they would be fine otherwise you'd have to increase their size. BTW: Megasquirt can use the output of a fuel-oxygen sensor to adjust the duty cycle to compensate for unknown ethanol content. This allows the user to add ethanol (E85) or gasoline to the tank without having to run it dry and/or guess at the mixture percentages. Wheelman

I've looked into doing this to my Z using Megasquirt but the only source of E85 in my local area is a commercial station I don't have access to. The fuel/air ratio is supposed to be quite a bit higher with E85 (on the order of 50% more fuel with straight E85) but if you're not encountering problems then the ECM must be compensating. Maybe thats why the check engine light is coming on. Cygnusx1, Do a google search for FlexFuel and you'll eventually run across a site that llists all stations selling E85. My guess is there are several in New York so you should be able to get it. Wheelman

I don't like the JTR tranny crossmember either so I made hangers for the stock Datsun member and moved it back in the tunnel about 4-5 inches to match up with my T5. I slotted the stock Datsun tranny mount (bolts to the tranny and the crossmember), the crossmember and the hangers I made so everything is adjustable. I bolted the hangers through the tunnel wall with backing plates inside the car for reenforcement. I had to do a little widening in the tunnel but you can't tell from inside the car. The output shaft and pinion angles are about 2 degrees off, which is a little more than I wanted but I can raise the nose of the diff to bring it to 1 degree. Not sure it would be worth the effort though as I don't have any vibrations from the driveline. Wheelman