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I'm thinking about dropping a 383 into my 240z and wanted to know if this engine / parts used are worth the asking price. http://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/2689761630.html

Just a lil update on the car got the hood liner installed.

QUESTION / PUBLIC OPINION Since the current tint on the windows done by the previous owner is rather low quality shoddy job that is now stating to peel. Should I a. Get it re-tinted with a dark tint? b. Get it re-tinted with a light tint? c. Get it re-tinted with a is some color other than the regular black tint? d. Remove the tint completely?

unfortunately i am going to have to raise the car up an inch or so in order to make it streetable. I realize that raiseing it will take away from its awesome stance but this is a car built to be driven and driven fast. Also i do not have a build thread as i am too lazy to maintain one.

My spoiler is the original sparrow tail and not the Z-GR tail. but since the Z-GR is just a modified sparrow tail this should give you a good idea as to how the the spoiler will look.

thanx for the kind words guy. I'm really proud of how well the car has turned out. I did all the work myself including painting the car in my garage. I did only had a little rust but the floor board were in good condition for the most part. Also as Snailed stated the spoiler is not the wail-tail but a sparrow tail.

Well i had the windshield installed on my 240z yesterday and was finally able to take it out of the garage after a rather lengthy 2 years of restoration. The car still needs a bit of work to get it to a 100% but i could not resist taking and sharing a few pictures. The car still needs to be color sanded and buffed. I'm also waiting on my upgraded headlight and taillight harnesses from MSA and a friend will be over tomorrow to weld in some rear brackets so i can mount the 7/8" sway bar in the back. Right now the car is a lil too slammed but i'll be raising it up an 1" or 2.

how are you guys running the the center caps for the Rota's on the front? The front hub center cap on my 240z seem to be protruding out too much to be able to mount the center cap for the wheels.

Hi guys, Anyone have the wiring diagram for the miata wiper motor upgrade. I have the new wiper motor in place but don't really know which wire is to be connected to which prong. I searched and all i can find is the wiring diagram for the honda wiper motor swap. Also if anyone used a relay i would love to see the wiring for the relay as well. thanx

Ok so i took the day off work to day and swapped the left and right calipers as instructed. Then I started bleeding the system again starting with the MC and then the 4 calipers and now the brake pedal is tight as a drum. It moves down approx 1" down before it starts to engage and bottoms out after approx 3-4" of travel. the braked seem to be working well as i am unable to move the wheels by hand once the brake is engaged. I cant drive my car yet but i think the brake problem is fixed. Also i don't think i extended the push rod in the brake booster too much but i'll know for sure next week once the car is on the road. I really appreciate you guy taking the time to trouble shoot my car problems. thanx John

No all my bleed valves are at the bottom of the calipers Kool thanx for the info. I had not adjusted my pushrod to account for the new 15/16 MC. I adjusted the pushrod as instructed in the thread you linked and the pedal felt a little better. I'll be doing the same thing for the front and rear tomorrow. All of my bleed valves are at the bottom of the calipers. Tomorrow i'll take the calipers of the mounts and see if i can bleed then with the bleed screw at the top. I'll report back as to how it turns out.

Ok so I've been trying to bleed my brakes all day today and still cant get it to work. My car is a 1970 240z and has the Toyota S12W brakes in the front and the 280ZX disk brake conversion on the back; I'm running SS braided brake lines between the hard lines and the calipers and also have the larger 280ZX master cylinder installed. From what i can tell there are no bubbles in the lines as i can have someone sit in the car and pump the breaks and when i open the bleed screw i shoots out a steady stream of brake fluid. I read a bunch of stuff on the site and as instructed started by bleeding the MC and them proceeded to bleed the 4 calipers. I have not bleed through almost 2 quarts of DOT-3 brake fluid and the pedal still goes all the way to the floor with little to no resistance. However if i pump the brake 5 or 6 times it gets firm and provides enough pressure to the calipers to stop the wheels from moving. Also when i pump the brake the fluid lvl in the master cylinder starts to drop and holds steady after about 4 pumps of the pedal and when the pedal is released the fluid lvl slowly start to rise back up. I'm not sure what i need to try next?

cool thanx for the idea. I went ahead and bought a 3 row champion off ebay for $190 shipped.

Found out today that my stock radiator is leaking so now I'm looking for a good replacement 2 or 3 row aluminum radiator for my 240z. Let me know if if you have a set for sale. Please PM me a price with shipping to 74012.

got what i need thanx everyone

I need a set of 240z tail light wiring harness cause i cut my harness up in an attempt to make LED tail lights and now new another set. Let me know if if you have a set for sale. Please PM me a price with shipping to 74012.

OK i got the tail lights working. 1 of the connectors in a 6 prong plug was lose and was causing the problem. I still cant get my headlight and brake lights to work but at least i got the running lights on for now.

I been stuck for the last 2 day on a wiring problem that I just can’t figure out. On my 1970 240z all my fuses are stable and I have everything on the wiring harness connected per the FSM but my headlights and tail lights/brake lights are not getting any power. However my backup/reverse lights are getting power. I just converted my headlight with a HID kit and my taillights are an LED kit. If i run wire from the positive of the battery directly to the back of the taillight the light-up just fine. So i obviously have an open circuit somewhere but can figure out where the harness is open. To give a little background on my car; the car has been through a full frame off restoration over the last 2.2 years and I am finally close to being able to drive it. The car starts and runs like a champ; it has the E12-80 upgrade with the 280z tach. I reinstalled the dash and wired everything up but am unable to get power to the headlights and taillights. I’m sure it’s something really simple that I’m missing but at this point I’m unable to figure it out on my own and need some input from you guys. Any help you guys can offer is appreciated.

Ok just to conclude this thread so that the next person searching for answers has a clear direction on how to fix the problem. I had to replace my 240z tach with a 280 z tach due to the E12-80 upgrade. I connected the +ve and -ve off the 240z tach to the 280z tach and abandon the induction loops; then i ran a separate 18 gauge wire front the 3rd connector on the 280z tach directly to the -ve of the ignition coil in the engine bay. Now all my fuses are stable and my new tach is working well.

I just put in an order for some rivets. I'll let you guys know how well these work. Below is a link to the exact rivets i bought: http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Toyota_Front_Bumper_Push_Type_Clip_90467_05063_C0_p/a21218.htm

awesome that is exactly what i was looking for. Thanx for the help.

Hey guys, I'm in the process of putting my interior panels back on and noticed that i was missing a bunch of the OEM black plastic rivets. Anyone know where i can get some replacements at a decent price? thanx

Ok i think i know what the problem is with the FLASHER fuse. Since i did the E12-80 upgrade and removed the ballast resistor the tack connection is blowing the fuse; i unplugged the connector at the back of the tach and not the fuse is stable. Not sure how i will fix it but atleast i have a starting point to do more research. On the first one i had the +ve and -ve crossed on the brake stop light sensor and hence the STOP fuse was blowing.

ok i think i got the STOP fuse to stop blowing bu the FLASHER fuse still blows as soon as i turn the key to accessory .

Hi Guys, First off i am not very good with wiring and electronics. I would really appreciate you assistance is solving my current problem. On my 1970 240Z; 2 of my fuses keep blowing and i need help finding the problem. Below is a picture showing the 2 fues that keep blowing. For a lil background on my car i have converted it to the E12-80 280zx distributer upgrade and i have done CS144 alternator upgrade. I'm not sure what other information you would need to help diagnose the problem so please ask question. thank you for your help