Zerrari GTO

Phantom- I could'nt find the photo and would really be interested in seeing it and getting some measurements. Oh yea-your car is BAD!

The rating on a pressure washer is calculated with the zero tip (max pressure). Most models come with 4-5 tips that allow you to drop the pressure down to well below 1000 psi. Go for a 2400-2600 with a Honda engine. This will give you a great range of operating pressures and the reliability of a Honda. I've seen them new for around $600.

Yep, he rocks. His service and the products he offers are top notch.

This was definitely the biggest pain in the a$$ of all the the things I've done so far. When I said everything went together well, that was after the strut housings were bead blasted, the bores for the spindle pins cleaned with WD-40 and a wire cleaning brush for a shotgun. The spindle pins were then sanded with 400 and then 600 grit so that they would slide into the bores. The metal sleeves that came with the poly bushing set had to be opened up a little on the ID's with a die grinder and round file. After all that it still took about an hour per side of compressing the poly bushings with C clamps and metal plates and then quickly taking the clamps off and trying to slide the strut housing into the control arm and get the spindle pin in position. I'm glad my kids were in bed because a constant stream of profanity and expletives could be heard coming from my garage during this lengthy process. Getting the origional spindle pins out was about as much fun. Lots of heat and a big hammer!

Thanks guys. Everything has been reassembled and went together very well. I just wasn't sure how much to torque the spindle pin nuts.

Can anyone tell me how much to torque the lock nuts on the ends of the spindle pin(s)? Thanks

Thanks zcarnut-I guess I should seal the side of the bump steer spacers that don't have the o-rings with a little silicone.

I have the MSA bump steer spacers and am ready to install but have a quick question. There is a pair of o-rings to be installed with these spacers; do they go between the strut assembly and the bump steer spacer or between the bump steer spacer and the steering knuckle? I emailed MSA customer svc three times and they are clueless. Also, what is the purpose of thes o-rings? There will not be any fluid or grease in this cavity (area inside the bump steer spacer).

Hey Wagz, you have been sounding kinda down about your VR project lately. Don't let the gremlins get you! Oh yea-I think it was you that already started the thread for GTO builders to list themselves-sorry.

Great to see another member doing a GTO. My car will be coming off the rotisserie soon and the reassembly/body kit will finally begin. Keep us posted. It would be good to get a thread going and have all those on this board who are doing GTO's list themselves so we could contact each other with questions/ideas.

It's a 280Z rack. I lubed it as per your instructions "Here comes trouble". Thanks for the help guys.

Thanks for helping me out on this one "Here comes trouble". I just refered to my "How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car" book and it says "STEERING-GEAR HOUSING: LUBE RESERVOIR-On early Z's there is a fragile plasic thimble that threads into the housing, ostensibly to supply lubricant to the steering gears. Install this now or wait until after the engine is installed to preclude accidentally snapping it off." Could I have an early rack in my 78 280Z? Will an early rack fit in a late Z? The origional boots were held on with hose-clamp-type bands if that helps. I never realized how much detective work was involved in restoring an old Z car!

I had taken the rack (car is completely disassembled) to a local shop that specializes in early Z's. The boots were shot and I was concerned that things had gotten contaminated. I had a new set of boots and asked the mechanic to inspect the gear box, regrease and install the boots. When I picked it up he said that everything looked and felt great so he installed the boots. I seriously doubt he did anything but turn the box a couple of times and put the boots on. I just want to be sure there is ample grease in the box. I can pull the boots back and grease the rack (per Here comes trouble) if it's the only way but a zerk fitting would sure be nice. The reason I mentioned the plastic nipple was to find out if it was in fact, threaded like a zerk fitting and could be retro fitted w/ a zerk fitting to make life easier. Can someone let me know before I pull this broken plastic nipple out?

I want to lubricate the steering rack on my 280Z. I did a search and this is what I found: "I think the zerk fittings were only on earlier models. You can remove the preload adjuster (where steering link attaches to rack) and lube the internals of the rack. Just make sure you properly preload the adjuster on reassembly." __________________ The 280Z steering box has a small plastic nipple that is used for lubrication. The nipple on my steering box has been broken off (of course). Can I replace this with a zerk fitting for easy greasing? I would much rather do this than the above mentioned procedure (new boots have already been installed). Thanks

They should just give him the keys to the jail- like Otis on the Andy Griffith Show!

How about pics of the battery box and the whole show winning car.

y-not, Are you referring to a small drop down battery box for the small Odyssey battery? My wheel well is gone; that may work! Congrats on Knotts!!! Lets see some pics!

Tim- are you or is anyone else out there using one of those kill switches that install on the battery cable and uses a key-like system for added security? If so, do you have any likes or dislikes (issues) you can share? Any particular manufacturers you recommend? Thanks again.

The battery sold for $73.99- not as bad as I thought it would be. Thanks!

I checked out the Odyssey website. How much $$$ are those little gems? (no pricing on the website).

Hi Marc, Where did you relocate your battery?

What I have now is a 2nd gen RX7 gas tank w/heat shields for dual exhaust. The tank is centered in the rear of the car and with the duals it does not look like I will be able to do a "drop down" type of battery box in the rear. The body kit is a Velo Rossa so with bracing and a spare there will be little room in the trunk (convertible top will fill up behind the seats). I would like the battery in the back but I'm not sure it's possible.

OK, no responces. What then are you guys doing? Fabbing your own? Using trays from salvage yard Z's? Thanks!

The last bit of work I have to do on my shell is replace the battery tray. The origional one was shot so I need to replace the whole thing. I have called salvage yards who will cut one out of a Z for me but I would rather have a new (no rust) OEM looking tray. Does anyone know of another type of car(s) having replacement trays available that will work (look right) on a Z car?

I would love to hear that thing doing a low pass! Way cool!!!