yetterben

for you big phil

Phil i had a r/t for a loaner for a week. WHAT A PILE OF DOG SHITZ! big bloated not really fast turned like ass seats sucked could go on for hours about it suckyness. I would rather drive a renault fuego than that or LeCar.

http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4220&cat=9

Gonna be tough in are area Bro. No one in the twin cities i would take my Z to. Check out ultimatez.com in Chicago.

After talking with Tony D about the subject he recalls a website where someone modded a 510/z dizzy to retard timing under positive intake pressure. He lost the link. Was wondering if any of you folks have it.

This is sweet man.....although the only engine worse than the 6g72 for timing belt issues is the 928 keep an eye on that belt often.

Still looking

Being behind the wheel of a FI tr6 sounds scary. I have spent much time with those cars.....SCARY!!!!

Okay decided power band that goes from 4 up is just not cool for the street fun yes but not to cool for alot of low end stuff. so i have 33's in it now and i have a set of 30's here. I assume i need to drop the main and the corrector down to suit. What about idle?

woops think i put this in the wrong section mods please move. SORRY

Took my 73 with a l28 out for a beat run tonight. i noticed its not wanting to shift at high rpms. 82 zx 5 speed. around 5-7 grand its like the shifter is locked until the rpm's come down. Motor mounts seem good. I did some searching did not come up with a whole hell of a lot of anything. I know my TOB is making some noise it did shift once but it felt like it pooped out and popped in buy the nasty noise the from the rear. clunk pop etc. Louder than the normal clunk. So my mounts are cracked my chassis is flexing or my clutch cant handle the high rpms with the 40's on her.

That's the thing i have no lean stumble at all off idle or any part of the band. I mean if i floor it off the line the car will die but they all will. But other than that no lean. Maybe i too am just more tolerant I did drive a perephial port 13b on the street.

I have read this whole thread again and the only thing i can conclude is the more engines changes you make, the more out of whack your tuning parameters go. I had no real hard time setting them up from scratch. But i am fairly stock l28. I guess you start adding cams and so on the engine pulses diffrently changing the way the carb works. In the rotary world the only real way to tune a weber or 2 barrel is wot. You live with everything in between. It works this way do to the way the rotary pulses and its vacuum signal works. I think the further and further you deviate from the norm the more and more its gonna suck on the street. These carbs where added to these cars with one implied use wot at a track, or a constant rpm rate it seems.

If there is, its gonna lean towards the c02. N20 would just be a huge waste. Nothing like watching a sheet of ice fall of a intercooler when they floor it.

Got her tuned in today. 12.7 for wot pulls. Holy crap I don't know what i gained for hp over the SU's but its a hell of a jolt that's for sure.

i have two on my triples that are different from the others. Is this going to be a serious problem until my new ones come? they are .5 inch smaller than the other 4

Nice job. I will be off with my blow through build as soon as i find a surge tank.

I am wondering now if i am in fact to rich. The deposits are kinda wet and can be removed very easy. The car runs so damn good though. Of course these are all wot pulls. I might just drive it normally for a few days and check again.

I can clean cyl6 all the way down to a like new finish with a qtip........starting to really worry me if i was running to lean or what. Should i drop the air corrector back to 175? I have no idea what a piston is supposed to look liek under normal conditions if it should look nice and clean or have deposits on it. I have some dished l28 pistons here from a FI motor they have some pretty heavy deposits on them. Its like the cyl are self cleaning lol but i know there not.......

I went outside to re-examine the pistons. I took a real long soft toothpick and gently brushed the deposits. Its ash white ash over the carbon. It was really pronounced it cyl1. So what is it old carbon cooking off? plugs all seem to be fine. Carbs are balnced pretty good with unisyn. Pulling each plug wire makes it drop like 10-15 rpm all across the board. Cant wait till wideband gets here. kinda looks like the 1st picture but its not over the whole head. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.theultralightplace.com/images/piston1a.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.theultralightplace.com/pistons.htm&usg=__8e-0rxo9Y_plOdv-_XgPHKe7GWk=&h=254&w=199&sz=8&hl=en&start=15&um=1&tbnid=7jyN4UFhPpUdKM:&tbnh=111&tbnw=87&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dwhite%2Bash%2Bpiston%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1 it could be i guess the car is running optimal for the first time in a long time. I just got it like 6 months ago and the last guy had some blown out su's running pig rich like black smoke everywhere rich. Only other change lately besides the webers has been vr1 zddp oil for the last 100 miles or so. Ash seems to have started from where the plug fires onto the top.

Got a new aux venturi today. She runs like a raped ape butt dyno is happy. Another qualm though. i pulled my plugs to check the readings and stuck a little led bendy light down in my bores. My piston tops where covered in carbon before. I was running sm su's now i see what appears to be a pepper liek thing going on but it is carbon lifting off the head. SO i dont know if i am way lean up top or not. So i dont know if i am just running cleaner than ever before and its cooking carbon off or what. 700 feet above sea level 200 air 140 main 33 choke no dead spots no issues just a little worried about the carbon flaking.

Motor is stock as far as i know. Revved happily with the su's all the way and pulled like a mutha. The other issue only started after the aux venturi fell out. So i dont think it is lined back up in the bore or its vibrating not allowing the fuel to come in the right way threw the bore. Timing set to 32 or so all in at 2,500 Motor is f54 flat tops with p79. Low end response is great no stumble torqy feel. I think its the natur of the beast that you cant just floor it at 1,500 and expect to to do anything but bog. Like i said its fine up till 1/3rd throttle until about 3 grand than its on it seems. It will pull till 7 grand just not as hard it seems tas the su's. Wideband is on the way. IT jsut feels sluggy up top and the plugs show it too.

I am guessing i dont have it dead on for the main jet entry. anyone have one of those little springs for the 40's damn. As far as high end should i raise the air corrector or lower the jet.

okay here is my run down. f11 e tube 200 air corrector 140 main 33 choke 45 aux venturi car drives fine up till about 1/3rd throttle until 3 grand punch it at 3 grand car pulls hard till 5,550 then it seems to slow down revs till 7 but not as fast as the su's seems a little rich up there Another situation. one of my aux venturi fell out how who knows. the little lock down piece is no where to be found. Small ding on the end of venturi where air horn goes. I inserted it back into the carb lined up like it should be. Car drives like ass now over 1/4 throttle. I dont know if the venturi is spinning in the bore or if something else happened Hope the car did not eat the lock down tab thingy on the venturi. Still idles fine drives fine until you give it more than 1/4 then its bog city.

Looking for someone with some skills to make me a surge tank. Like the old sk or hks one. Please pm me if you can help.