qwik240z

Congrats David, Glad I got to share in your 1st ride. Feels great doesn't it.

Thanks for clearing this up. This is what I have been saying. So does anyone have any documentation that an LS1 block is stronger then an LS6 block?

That really sucks, David. At least you will have the LS1 on the road soon. That can be your daily driver while you look for a replacement. Hope no one was hurt.

I certainly don't believe everything I read but it is hard to ignore photos that show the only way to remove a cylinder liner is to machine it out. The cast iron liners are cast into the aluminum block as part of the manufacturing process. Where did you hear about (or read about) the LS6 having removable sleeves? If you mean they are removable buy machining them out then this would be true for the LS1 block also. As for the LS1 block being stronger, that may be true since they start out at the same thickness and they machine a bit more from the LS6 block to fit larger bore pistons. Also, would you not consider better crankcase breathing and lower crackcase air pressure to be a benefit? Apparently GM disagrees with you.

Thanks. I PM'd him but it is over his budget. Anyone else?

http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=2124&cat=20

I used to own a 510 with an Olds 215 V8. I did the LS1 swap into my 240Z and I had thought about doing it into a dime but I felt that the LS1 is way too big. If you can modify the firewall to set the motor back about 4-5 inches you may have a shot at it. Pull the dash and remove the heater unit. Then take a look at how far you can move it back and still keep the dash in place. You really need to try and get the weight back as far as possible if you plan on it being able to handle at all. You can install a 240Z R & P steering unit and some 280ZX steering knuckles in the car to help with the clearance. You are a brave man taking on a challenge like that. Keep us updated on your progress. I hope you see it through.

They finished up the diff install this past week. He built another bracket that mounts directly above the front diff mount. This bracket is kind of a squared off U shape and has a hard urethane bumpstop at the top of it. The bumpstop is adjustable. It is preloaded so it is just resting on the top of the tunnel. If the front mount arms do allow any movement (I doubt it as they are super stout), there will be no place for the front of the diff to go. We are very confident that this will be more then stong enough. I will try to get some pics posted up soon.

I am just now finishing my q45 R200 VLSD swap. So far it has cost: $300 for the 3/4" Moustache Bar from LS1240Z $300 MMS for the Axles $420 for the C/V adaptors (LS1240Z has them for $200 but you need 280Z companion flanges too.) $339 for the Arizona Z car Billet rear brace $200 for the Q45 diff and one set of Axles $100 for a 2nd set of axles $171 for new C/V boots kits (4) from Inifinti $60 set of 280Z stub axles $55 for the Flange Yoke to connect the diff to the driveshaft $150 for a new Driveshaft $??? for the front mount $??? for the LSD fluid $??? C/V grease Shipping prices were not included in the above figures Over $2000 so far. Maybe I paid too much for a few items but unless you get the diff and axles for free or almost free and you already have some of the parts, you will not be able to do it for $1000 if you want to use the billet parts.

I am using the JCI LS1 mounts in my 240Z. I will tell you that they are well designed, made from the highest quality stuff,will bolt in, place the motor and trans in the right position, they clear the steering and for the money can not be beat. Yes you pay $300 for a set of mounts for the motor, but they include stiffener plates for the flimsy stock Z car motor mount towers and the time they will save you is worth the $300 alone. There are plenty of guys that have made their on mounts too. But the JCI mounts make it almost fool proof for only $300. There is enough to do on an LS1 swap that will keep you busy without fabricating motor mounts too..

My 02 has the LS6 block. I believe you need to check the block number not the VIN number. I have a book around here somewhere that tells which numbers were the LS6 block and which were the LS1. If you can't find it elsewhere, let me know and I will dig it up. Dale is correct. It will have the 241 heads, the LS6 intake and will not have the EGR.