qwik240z

Are these for the longnose R200 or will they work with the Q45 shortnose R200 also?

I would consider it a "while I am at it" Once question for you: Why did you need to pull the dash to install a full dash cover?

Clive, Looks great. Nice progress. I am sure David (1tuffz) will keep you on track. Here is a time saving tip for anyone trying to do this swap. When I removed the stock 240Z Trans. mounting ears from the tunnel, I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel. Really worked well and only took about 5-10 minutes per side. I wish someone had shared time saving tips with me when I did this swap.

I guess the fact that I was one of the early buyers and he screwed up my tack conversion a few times and I spent about $1500 total with him got him to credit me the shipping back to him. When I got the CM from him, he wasn't aware of any differences in the frame rails between the 240 and the 280. All in all I am still very happy with the JCI components. The motor mounts make this a much easier project and position the motor in a great location so the stock console can be used. My goal was to build a car that looks stock and gives no clues about the swap until you start the car or lift the hood. With the help of JCI this has been acomplished. I love it when I have it parked at the track and someone walks by and says nice Z. Then after they see me blow past them while doing a few laps they come running up and want to see under the hood. That is a great feeling. Especially when it is the Porsche owners.

That is the same CM John sent me over 2 years ago. It fits the 280Z frame rails. It is too tall for the 240Z frame rails. He knows that doesn't fit the 240Z. I would ask John to send a call tag for that one and have him pay the shipping charges. He told me he would make a new CM for my Z and other 240Z's but I didn't wait. We made one and it works fine. I sent his back to him and he credited me the cost of it and the shipping back to him towards my A/C setup. You can sort of see my CM in this picture. It ties into the subframe connectors and allow lots of room for the exhaust. If you are planning on adding sub frame connectors, you can use the CM he sent you and mount it to the SFC.

That car looks like a parts car even by east coast standards. I own several 510's and I would only buy that one for parts. The stainless gutter moldings are worth $50 of you can remove them carefully.

This subject all depends on the way the market is going in your area. For the past 4 years the overall real estate market in the US was waht is called a sellers market. Lots of buyers and not as many homes for sale. This forced up prices and started bidding wars. In our area it was not uncommon for someone to pay from $10K -$100K over the asking price for a home. We bought our house in 2002 after loosing 8 other homes we were outbid on. We paid full asking price for it and offered the sellers a fast settlement and a large cash deposit to get them to accept our offer over the next offer which was $10K higher then ours. The other offer had a very low deposit and marginal financial statement so the seller thought he had better take the sure thing. The US housing market has shifted to a buyers market in the past 9-12 months. In this market, depending on your area, buyers have many more houses to choose from and have been offering less then the asking price for most homes. My wife is a Realtor and I am a Mortgage Broker so we keep close tabs on the market. If you are looking to buy, now is a great time. There are creative ways to structure an offer that may help you more that just offering a low price. I will be happy to share some of them with you. Contact me off list. Good Luck

Mr. K had on on at one of the Z conventions. I think MAd Mike had on on too. Reyn Spooner is a shirt company from hawaii. They originally sold for like $70. They also make a Nissan Motorsports shirt. The Z and Nissan shirts hove been out of production for several years. See some of their shirts here. http://www.reyns.com/SC101_Services/SC101_Shopper/showCatalog.php?menuId=105

Do you give discounts to list HybridZ members?

I paid $4000 for my 2002 LS1 and auto trans complete with all accessories, computer, wiring harness, exhaust manifolds, cats, etc. It had 20,000 miles on it. I have seen LS1 motors sell for $2000 and less for just the motor. Keep in mind if that motor was in a vette, you will need an F body oil pan too. Sounds a bit fishy to me too. When in doubt, pass. There is always another one out there.

My T-56 was bought used and is a POS. It pops out of 3rd, it is hard to downshift to 2nd and it whines in 5th and 6th. I plan to purchase a rebuilt performance unit from Rockland this winter and do the swap. $1595 plus a core charge. They were recommended to me by a racer that has a 2002 Camaro SS. He swears by them. I think if I took it apart, i would have peices all over my garage for the entire winter. I leave thisngs like this to the experts. You have to know your limitations. Good Luck.

I met a guy there with a silver Camaro with an undercar turbo. We didn't exchange names. I guess that was him. They were getting ready to fire it up for the ist time one of the nights I was there. Should be a wcked fat car when he gets it done. Really cool turbo setup too.

Hey guys, It has been a while since I have done an update so I thought I would let you all know how my car is progressing. It has been driven over 5000 miles since the swap was completed and I must say it is an excellent swap. On to the update. A few weeks ago I took the car to a place called F Body Central near Baltimore to have it dyno tuned. The guys at F body really know their stuff about LS1 motors. A guy named Bret did the dyno tuning. The use a Mustang Dyno and EFI Live for computer tuning. We got it strapped to the dyno and started to make a few pulls for a baseline and they noticed it was running lean under load. I was having some fuel pressure trouble that wasn't apparent until we got it on the dyno for some tuning. We hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and did another pull and the pressure was dropping off once the rpms got above 3000. We thought that maybe it was a clogged filter so I pulled the filter, replaced it with a straight barbed connector and we tried again. Same problem. Ok so we unhooked it form the dyno and I went back to Tony at the Hot rod Shop that built the fuel system. They checked it out and found that the fuel pump was bad. Replaced the FP and set up another appt to get it tuned. Back on the dyno, the same problem occured. Back to the drawing board. I took it back to Tony again. This time he pulled the fuel filter and blew through it and it was clogged. He took it apart to see what was clogging it and it was full of this brown residue. He pulled the gas tank and the inside was covered in this residue. It seems that the previous owner had the tank boiled and re-sealed and the sealant was coming off and clogging everything up. Luckily I had a Fuel Injected tank from a 75 280Z sitting in my garage that was waiting to be installed. We swapped in the 280Z tank and the problem is gone. I called and made an appt at F body again and drove back up there. The car felt like a different car. I had thought it was fast before but it was really fast now. We get it back on the dyno and Bret does the tuning and we make several pulls. The best pull was 340RWHP and 365RWT. But better then the additional HP was the way the car responded. The throttle response is instantanious. It feels fantastic. And just in time for a Track day at Summit Point. I went to Summit Point this past friday for a FATT (friday at the track) The car performed great. No problems, plenty of power and everyone loved it. I had lots of guys come up and ask to see under the hood. Everyone thought it was a super clean, "looks like it belongs there" swap. A guy came up to me and said, man that car is fast. Your were pulling away from me in all the straights. I asked what he was driving and he said a new 911. A guy in a 2002 Z06 was trying to keep up too and a 944 turbo and a Mustang. I blew past a newbie in a Ferrari F430 too. I had the same instructor for the 1st 2 sessions and an different instructor for the 2nd 2 sessions. The first guy kept telling me to try and be more smooth on my steering imputs. Afer the 2nd session I let him drive it and he said that it wasn't me that it was the tires. I am running Pirelli P6000 tire and they are good on the street but suck on the track. Next time I go back, I will get better tires. The 2nd instructor (Tom, an instructor for 18 years) say I needed to go faster and use the brakes to get the car settled but not to scrub off so much speed. He said I could safely go much faster. This advice made a huge difference it the way I was driving. In my 3rd seesion I was running about 6/10s. I went back out with Tom in the final session and he just shut up and let me drive. I was pushing it much harder and passing lots of cars and lapping several cars too. When the session was over, Tom said that he was impressed by my improvements and said "That was some damn fine driving" He said I was at about 8.5/10ths He cleared me for Solo driving. Now I just need to get one more instructor to clear me for solo and I can move up. I plan to buy another set of wheels and tires for track use and I will be going back in the spring.

Looks great Mike. I love the color. When will it be hitting the track?

Happy Birthday Joey! I see you are a Dream Theater fan too. Hope it was a good one.

A big difference between a 3500 + pound camaro and a 2600 240Z.

Mine is a stock 2002 Camaro SS LS1 motor. Sanderson headers and cold air intake. Without tune it made 317 to the wheels, with tune it made 340 on its best pull.

Sorry guys. I have been away from the list for a while. So we checked out the pump and it seems to have been clogged up. The previous owner had the gas tank boiled out and sealed and whatever they used to seal it has started to peel off and clog up the lines and the filter and the pump. I had a gas tank sitting here from a 75 280Z (fuel injected) that I was planning on installing so it finally got done. With this tank, and a new fuel filter, the problem is now gone. I took the car back to have to dyno tuned and it now runs great. 327rwhp and 340RWT on a Mustang dyno. The car now has excellent throttle response and feels so much more powerful. It made more torque on the other dyno but I think that different dynos give different numbers. The butt dyno says it is way better now. Thanks for all of your help.

Impressive numbers. Looks like you can easily hit the 11's with a few changes. Glad to know that a stock motor will pull those kind of numbers. Did you have the motor dyno tuned? I have only run my LS1 240Z once in the quarter mile. I also had 195/60/14 tires and a Nismo R180 LSD with 3.54:1 gears. I couldn't get any traction and I ran a 13.1. Now that I have had it dyno tuned and have wider tires, I hope go go back soon and see what it will do.

I recently did this for a friend too. Last spring I got a great deal ($1000) on a nice survivor Datsun 510. A friend of mine used to have a really nice 510 but he was forced to sell it due to a nasty divorce. I know how much he had loved that car so I decided to sell the newly found 510 so he could have one again. I sold it to him at cost even though it was worth at least $1500 more than the price I paid for it. I told him that if he got tight for money and he needed to sell it, that he would have to sell it back to me any time in the 1st year. He did a bit of work to it and around Christmas, he called saying he needed money and would I buy it back. I told him yes. I paid him $1700 for it which I figured was giving him half of the profit I would have made if I had sold it. He asked for a chance to buy it back. I told him sure. I said he could buy it back for the same money any time in the next 6 months. Well six months past and he never asked to buy it back. During that time he took 2 vacations and bought himself a bunch of cool toys. I had mentioned to him several times when do you want to buy it back, But he always said, I don't have the money. I even had him do some work on my cars for me and when I offered to pay him he put the cash in his pocket instead of handing it back to me and asking me to apply it to the car. When he finally asked to buy it in September, I told him no. I had decide to keep it. He asked me why and I told him that he was taking advantage of my good nature. I recapped to him how he had money to do all the stuff he wanted to do but not buy the car back. He looked at me and said. You are right. he said I guess I really didn't want it enough. He does have an M3 and an old Mini Cooper so I guess he has enough toys.

This is so true. I used to have a 240Z many years ago but lack of funds forced me to sell it. It took me 20 years to get another one. Over the years I kept dreaming of my old car wishing I could get another one. Well my 40th Bday rolled around a few years ago and I decided that I was going to find another one. It took me a year and a half to find my current Z. Another 2 years to get it to where it is today. But it was all worth it. I am finally living the dream and that is a great place to be.

I am doing a VG30 swap into my 510. I have a 1987 200SX SE with the VG30 and 5 speed that I picked up from a member of hybrid Z last year. It is a decent car with 118K miles on it. Paid $200 and the guy drove it to my place for me. I too would love to do the VQ swap but I agree that the fab is a bit much. I think I will wait until Mario at TSR comes up with the swap kit first. I heard that he is working on it. I like the KA too but I have the VG30 and I picked up a team thump install kit (motor mounts, trans mount, oil pan and oil pickup) pretty cheap. Should make it easy. The VG30 makes the same power as the KA but the VG makes more torque. I have driven both a vg30 510 and a KA 510 and I like the way the vg feels better. I guess after driving my LS1240Z I am kind of a torque junkie.

I took my LS1 240Z to get it dyno tuned last night. They had to stop in the middle of the entire process. When the car was being run under a load it was leaning out quite a bit. We hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and found that the fuel pressure was at about 52PSI We adjusted the regulator up to 59PSI and did another pull. The fuel pressure was dropping down to like 30PSI under a 3500-4000 RPM load in 4th gear. I though that maybe it was a clogged fuel filter. I pulled the fuel filter and bypassed it with a barbed connector and we did another pull. Same problem. Fuel pressure is fine at idle and up to 3000 rpms. The entire system is fairly new. Tank was boiled and coated and ran fine for several years with the L28. All the lines are new. The fuel pump is a Walbro 255LPH inline pump with a inline filter going to a aeroquip adjustable FPR. I spoke to the shop that did most of my install and they think the Fuel Pump is defective. He said that they have had about 3 bad pumps in the past 2 months. Anybody else having this problem? Any other ideas on what it could be? TIA. Any help