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qwik240z

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Everything posted by qwik240z

  1. The tease is fun. I have been told that I have a warped sense of humor. I just wanted to share the worry I have had for 16 months. Phantom, All wires will be soldered on the CableX converter. I posted some more pics in my album if any of you are interested. Trans crossmember Subframe Connectors Fuel Lines Air Intake system A/C Compressor Fans and radiator etc. The waiting is killing me now. I want to drive it!
  2. Thanks for the kind words guys. It has been a long time coming. My son will certainly be the 1st to go for the maiden voyage. Hopefully the speedo box won't be an issue. The guy at the shop has done one before. Exhaust is going to be 2 1/2" duals to a Y pipe after the trans and then 3' pipe back to an ultaflo muffler. If it is too loud I will install a glasspack in the straight 3" pipe to quiet it down some.
  3. You know those fears you have deep inside you when you shell out $4000 for a used motor that you never heard run and hope it is going to be a good motor? I have been having those fears for quite some time now. I don't have to fear any longer. IT RUNS!!!!!!! Went to the shop today and they were putting fresh oil in it. They had squirted ATF in the cylinders and let it soak in for a while. I get there and they ask if I want to be the 1st to crank it up. Of course I jump at the chance. I turn the key and bump it a few tiomes to prime it and then give it a go. Varooomm! It fires right up. With open headers it is hard to say how well it runs but it idled nicely and after the ATF burned out there was no smoke. They still have quite a few things to finish up on it but said they are sending it to the exhaust shop on Monday. After that they still need to get the A/C lines. The guy making them is really slow. They need to hook up the Speedo converter box and lots of little stuff. I should have it back by next weekend. I can't wait to drive it!
  4. For those of you with the LS1 and the JCI mounts, How far below your front crossmember does the oilpan hang down? Mine seems to be about 1" below the front crossmember and on my lowered car it is too low. The shop lowered the car off the lift today and the bottom front edge of the oil pan scrapes against the hump under the lift. The hump under the lift is approx. 3 1/2" to 4" high. The shop had designed a really nice steel skidplate but it seems bulky and sits even lower and adds about 6 lbs too. Can anyone give me measurements from the bottom of the oil pan to the ground and also from the bottom of the front crossmember to the ground? My coilovers are adjusted all the way up and I am hoping that I don't have to pull the struts, cut the weld that hold the threaded collars and re-adjust the location of the threaded collars to gain more clearance. I am planning on changing the wheels and tires to 16" and that should gain about 1" of clearance if I am doing my math right. Currently I have 14" X 7" Konigs with 195-60-14 tires. If I go with 16" x 7" Panasports with 225-50-16's they should add one inch of height to the front. Yes? No? Help!!!
  5. Welcome to the LS1 Z club. Looks like a nice clean install. JCI mounts make it easy. Mine should be on the road next week. Let us all know if we can help with anything.
  6. Thanks Guys. I will try it without jumping any wires on the stock regulator plug. The JTR manual showed that you remove the regulator and the wires that went to it from the harness.
  7. I did a search and got conflicting answers so I figured I would ask this qwik question. If I use the Alternator from the LS1 can I just unplug the stock Datsun voltage regulator or do I need to jump any of the connections? Thanks!
  8. The guy who is doing my LS1 swap asked me to find out if anyone has had any problems by using a High Output (105amp) GM internally regulated alternator and just bypassing the stock Datsun Voltage Regulator? He says that he has seen, on some older cars with older wiring, the stock chassis wiring fry up without the use of a factory voltage regulator and says he can use the internal regulator of the 105amp GM alternator for just the engine, ECU, fuel pump, and cooling fan wiring and retain the factory voltage regulator for all of the remaining chassis wiring. I didn't recall hearing of any problems just bypassing the regulator but figured I better ask. Thanks in advance!
  9. I will be happy to Pete. Will you have the new motor up and running in time for the Zvention? Do you need any help? David
  10. The plan for the exhaust on my LS1 240Z is to run dual 2 1/2" pipes from the 1 3/4" Sanderson Headers to the area behind the trans and then "Y" them together into a single 3" pipe back to a muffler in the stock location. I want a system that will let the motor breathe but I also want a somewhat quiet exhaust. I am hoping to have it quiet enough to be a Sleeper. The car will appear stock on the outside so sounding quiet would be great. It will allow me to enjoy the stereo too. I like the way the stock C5 Corvette sounds. I need help choosing a muffler that will fit in the stock location, provide a quiet exhaust note and still let the motor breathe w/o too much back pressure. Lets here your opinions! Thanks!
  11. Time for another update. My car has been at the shop since June 1st. I started to worry when they didn't work on it for the first 2 weeks. The were backed up with other work and needed to clear their shop of the little jobs before starting on mine. The work finaaly began June 15th. They are moving along nicely. The motor and trans are in the car and fit great. They made a really nice trans crossmember and they have almost finished the sub frame connectors. Most of the wiring is complete. The fuel system is almost complete. The air intake is all worked out it just needs to be mounted. The A/C is almost ready they are waiting on the custom lines. The exhaust guy has seen the car and is reay to do his stuff when they get to that point. They said that they should be firing up the motor on Monday so I should make myself available if I want to hear it run. I was told that if I don't mind bringing it back for them to finish the A/C, I can pick it up next week. From what I saw today, I think they can get it done by then. I posted some pics form my visit to the shop today in my member gallery. Check it out! I can't wait to drive it. I will update you all again soon.
  12. No cutting required. Also note the extra fuse panel will mount next to the existing fuse box. We will use the "fasten seatbelts" light for the check engine light.
  13. By using this location it allows me to retain the fresh air ducts to the cabin.
  14. I sure hope it won't take 11 months. I went by there yesterday and dropped off all the bits and pieces I have collected so they can get started. I expressed my concerns about how long it would take and he (His name is Tony) says he will shoot for a deadline of July 4th so he can be sure to have it done way before the July 15th deadline I gave him. Since the motor is already in the car and I have agreed to avoid the "while we are at it" syndrome, it really shouldn't be too bad. He needs to mount the trans, install the speartech wiring harness, build a fuel system and an exhaust system, hook up the speedo converter, install the radiator and fans, install the JTR air intake system, and a bunch of little BS stuff. 5 weeks should be plenty of time. He also said that he would be doing most of the work on it in the late afternoon and early evenings and agreed to let me help when I can get over there. I spoke to the wife and she agreed that I can have Tuesday evenings to go and work on it. With me over there helping for 4-5 hours a week, I really think the time deadline will be met. The Z convention isn't until August 15th so I had an extra month built into it. Wish me luck!
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