qwik240z

I am going with the auto in my LS1 swap. I also enjoy shifting gears and I originally wanted the 6 speed but the motor I bought came with the auto and that helped my decision. After sitting in lots of bumper to bumper traffic in the DC area, I think the auto will be a better choice. Also, my wife doesn't drive stick too well. Once I get it one the road, I may change my mind. If that happens, I will end up swapping it for the 6 speed. The change over shouldn't be too hard. I will let you all know soon, I hope.

Mike, Looks great. Did you get the wiring harness ok? Since you are so fast at these swaps, How about coming to DC to visit and finish mine for me. I bet you could have it running in a weekend.

[quoteSo far that seems to be the best option... I got quoted $500 for a brand new oilpan! -Vann I bought a new LS1 oil pan from the local Chevy dealer using a friends wholesale account and it only cost $165. It came with new bolts and a new gasket too. Check around. I think someone misquoted you.

I have read that too and I think you are right. The Camaro-FB bell housing is the one that is offset at an angle. I have a 1986 Trans am T5 in my 510 and I hooked it up to my Buick 215 V8 bellhousing which positions the trans where the shifter is upright. In this position, the trans mount doesn't point straight down but it is at an angle. I made a crossmember mount that allows the trans to stay at this angle. I have had it this way for over 5 years with no problems.

I used a product similar to peel and seal in my 510. It is a roofing product made by GAF and sold at home depot. It comes in a big roll 3 feet by 100 feet. I think it was around $40 for the roll. I put 2 layers of it from the firewall to area under the back seat. It does a nice job of quieting up the interior and it gets rid of the tinny noise. It didn't stick as well as I would have liked but I also did it in the winter. If I did it again, I would use a heat gun and warm up the floors first.

Can I just use my straps from the 240Z?

I did a search but no luck. I have a gas tank from a 75 280Z that I want to install into my 72 240ZLS1 project. Do I need to modify anything or will this be a bolt in replacement? I do plan to remove the vapor recovery canister and associated lines that run to it. I will hook up the vent to the gas filler tube and hook up the fuel and return lines. Am I missing anything? Any problems concerns I should look out for? Thanks!

I too am planning on doing this upgrade to my Project. Sport Z magazine did a how to article on the swap. I picked up a set of the Toyota S12 calipers on eBay for $25. The guy that sold them was a dismantler and they came off a wrecked truck. They were rebuilt calipers that someone must have just installed cause they are like new. On eBay look under Toyota truck brake calipers if you want a good deal. I have seen them advertised under Datsun Z car and they sell for much more. Where is the best place to buy the rotors from? It looks like the kit from Ross is a good way to go. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=48&PHPSESSID=a827e211e13f1e3d1846793b3007dfb4

If you don't mind losing the spare tire well that is a good alternative. Others on the list have modified their tanks for an intank pump. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=35058

If you have a 280Z then you already have a baffled, fuel injection gas tank. You probably won't need a surge tank or a low pressure pump. If you have a 240Z then you will either need to switch to an early(1975-1976) 280Z baffled, fuel injection gas tank or use a low pressure pump to a surge tank to a high pressure pump to the fuel rails. I was going to go with the surge tank method but I picked up an early 280Z tank and I will go with that and a pump from Johns cars. I really don't like all the extra hoses, connections, etc. Too many things that could go wrong. I plan to run new 3/8" fuel and return lines from the fuel rail to the tank and use an Aeromotive adjustable FPR.

After seeing all that, I am glad I decided to get a speartech harness. I know it was $750 vs. free to $150 for a stock harness but I am not the best at wiring and I didn't want the computer in the engine bay either. It also gives me the diagnostic port for reading codes, reprogramming, etc.

Charles, Yes Mine does look just like the one you showed. Is yours shorter than the 98 shifter? I put mine on top of the trans tunnel and it seems like the handle will be way too tall. I have actually cut down some of the shifter frame so it can fit inside the tunnel and I was going to try to mount it from underneath the way Joey did in his LS1 280Z but I need to figure out how to seal off the hole in the tunnel and the stock lower shifter boot/gasket won't work. I know I can make something but I was hoping to use the stock boot. I have a boot from a 280ZX that seems larger but I need to pull it out of storage to try it on for size. Thanks for your help.

Charles, It looks like you mounted the entire unit above the tunnel but your description says it sits down in the recessed place. Can you explain? The shift I have from the 2002 camaro would sit up too high like this. Is the 86 shifter short? Thanks.

73TPIZ & spdsk8r, Do either of you have an pics of your shifter install? I plan to use the shifter from the 2002 Camaro on my install and want to see how you guys did it. Thanks!

I posted this under the Fuel Delivery forum but I thought I would also post it here: After Tim showed us his "el Cheapo Surge tank " I did some looking around and I found a guy that will make a surge tank for you for around $85 plus shipping. I found him on eBay and he was selling this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7917340846&category=33602 It looks like good quality and the welds look nice. I wrote to him and asked if he could make one to my specs and here is his reply: "Hi, I was wondering if you could make a surge tank similar to this one you advertise but for use as a fuel surge tank? You can see what I am talking about if you check out this website: http://www.sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm I would be interested in one for my current project. If you can do it, since it is similar to the tank you already make but it would have 4 fittings on it, How much would it be? Thanks for your time. David David, Yes, I can fab a tank for you. Since my tanks use 1/2" thick end caps, I can put three 1/4" npt threads on one end and 1 on the other. If you'd rather have bungs welded on the sides, I can do it that way, too. The price would be around $85.00 plus shipping. If you need it polished, it would be another 15 or 20 dollars. Let me know what you want to do! Brian" Here is his email address: fritz7987@ev1.net I hope this helps someone out there. I told him that I would share this info with the Hybrid Z list and he welcomes our business. For my project, I just picked up a baffled, fuel injected gas tank from a 76 280Z that I plan to install instead of using the surge tank and the 2 pump method. I will try this first and if it doesn't do the job, I will have this guy make me a surge tank and add it later.

After Tim showed us his "el Cheapo Surge tank " I did some looking around and I found a guy that will make a surge tank for you for around $85 plus shipping. I found him on eBay and he was selling this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7917340846&category=33602 It looks like good quality and the welds look nice. I wrote to him and asked if he could make one to my specs and here is his reply: "Hi, I was wondering if you could make a surge tank similar to this one you advertise but for use as a fuel surge tank? You can see what I am talking about if you check out this website: http://www.sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm I would be interested in one for my current project. If you can do it, since it is similar to the tank you already make but it would have 4 fittings on it, How much would it be? Thanks for your time. David David, Yes, I can fab a tank for you. Since my tanks use 1/2" thick end caps, I can put three 1/4" npt threads on one end and 1 on the other. If you'd rather have bungs welded on the sides, I can do it that way, too. The price would be around $85.00 plus shipping. If you need it polished, it would be another 15 or 20 dollars. Let me know what you want to do! Brian" Here is his email address: fritz7987@ev1.net I hope this helps someone out there. I told him that I would share this info with the Hybrid Z list and he welcomes our business. For my project, I just picked up a baffled, fuel injected gas tank from a 76 280Z that I plan to install instead of using the surge tank and the 2 pump method. I will try this first and if it doesn't do the job, I will have this guy make me a surge tank and add it later.

Well the UPS man brought me another present today. My Speartech Wiring Harness arrived and boy does it look good. Well worth the wait. The quality is first class and all connections are just like OEM. The labels are very clear and the instructons are good too. I ordered it on July 21st and it came on Sept. 10th so that is about 7 weeks for those of you that need to know a time frame. I need to make more time to get back to work on the car. I miss driving my Z! I want it back on the road. I am tired of being a member of the Jackstand Racing Crew.

In my 240Z I had to hammer for the trans crossmember and for the big round govenor thing on the passenger side. I also had to hammer the top for some dipstick clearance issues. I have had the motor in and out 3 times so far and I only plan on one more time but not until I get the harness back from speartech.

Well it took 3 weeks but the Sanderson Headers finally arrived today. It was worth the wait. I did an initial test fit and the passenger side bolts right up. The clearance is very tight next to the starter but it clears and it will work. The drivers side will work with less mods then I thought. The collector flange is hitting against the JCI motor mount at the very back top corner of the motor mount. I didn't have any time now to work on it but I know I can grind off a small amount of metal from the corner of the motor mount (1/4"-3/8") and I will have all the clearance I need. I will not have modify the headers and to send them back to be rewelded so this is great news. (if you use mounts like MAS280 made this will not be an issue and these will bolt up no problems) I am going to contact Jeremy at Sanderson and see if he will have a set coated for me and I will exchange these once the other set is done. So for all of you out there that want to do the swap and can live with 1 1/2" primary tube headers this will save you alot of money. At $285 uncoated or $385 coated vs. $700 uncoated or $860 coated for the 1 3/4" custom made ones here is your answer. I will take some pics ASAP and get them posted so you can see them.

This guy wants an LS1 and can't afford it so he came up with this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7918160228&category=33615 It takes all kinds!

That looks sweet! They seem to do great work. I can't wait to get mine.

Tom, Here is the response I got from Speartech about their harnesses" 1) We include the fuel pump relay with our harnesses. We include the wiring to hook up to the fan relays so that they will be computer controlled, but do not include the relays due to so many fan kits on the market. We don't include a starter relay, nor do we even use one on any of our applications. 2) The main wires to hook up are a power wire to the battery, a wire to the ignition switch, and the wire from the fuel pump relay that goes back to the pump itself. This gets you up and running. We also include labelled wires for the various gauges, brake switch, etc., that can be considered as optional. 3) Unfortunately since our harnesses are built custom for each project, there is a wait. The time various by workload; we are running around 3 weeks at the moment. Here's an overview of what we offer: A new stand-alone LS1 harness is $750.00. The harness includes a check engine light, diagnostic connector, fuel pump relay, wires for a computer controlled cooling fan relay, and labeled wires for easy hookup to the battery, ignition switch, and fuel pump. Wires are also included for tach, speed, oil pressure, water temperature, and brake switch / park-neutral switch functions where applicable. These custom stand alone harnesses are built for full function, closed loop control, and designed for non-emissions use (no post-cat O2's, A.I.R. pump, purge canister, or fuel tank evap interface). The harnesses can be built to your desired length specifications. A factory harness rework service is also offered as long as the original harness is in good shape, and the PCM location and overall appearance of the harness is acceptable to you. The rework service converts the harness to stand-alone use, with the same features listed above. The charge for the harness re-work is $450.00. The factory reworked harnesses can retain full emissions capability if desired. We also offer complete PCM (computer) reprogramming so that your engine runs properly in its new home. The basic charge for LS1 reprogramming is $300.00 and includes your choice of a number of things such as: VATS (vehicle anti-theft system) removal, emissions equipment removal (whatever you don’t need or are not using on your swap such as: EGR, catalytic converters, A.I.R. pump, rear O2 sensors, fuel tank pressure, EVAP, etc.), as well as lower fan turn on temps, raised rev limiter, new gear ratio, tire size, etc. The reprogramming lets your new engine run properly without the “check engine†light being on all of the time. All wiring harnesses and PCM programming are done on-site, in our facility. John Speartech Fuel Injection Systems, Inc. www.speartech.com I asked speartech about the Baker LIM and here is what they said: "You could use that if you wanted. I don't know anything about it. We can bring out our wires and label them if you want to hook them up to something like that. It looks like it contains a lot of stuff you don't need, but you could use it for your fan and fuel pump relays." John Speartech Fuel Injection Systems, Inc. http://www.speartech.com My harness should be ready soon. I hope this helps.