FricFrac

I did a little experiment of my own on the way to my foster son's science fair. A strip of 1" x 1/8" single sided adhesive medium density foam like you use between your truck and canopy, etc applied to the "crack" area towards the rear of the driver/passenger window. I applied mine the entire height of the window. Works almost perfectly (just the slightest wisper of wind on the highway) - surprised and happy with the results. Took longer to find a pair of scissors than it did to install (and I even knew where the scissors were!).

The engine is the cheap part if you are getting it fabed up.... VQ35 would be nice though.... I love Nissan swaps

Well then the Z31 is the one armed three legged (hmmm maybe that's not a bad trait) buck toothed spawn of the Z car family.... at least the 510 guys still love them (well to rape and pilage at least).. I know I've build up or "renewed" the surface on my T-Tops on my first S130 with silicone seal - worked awesomely. I may try building up the seal around the rear of the window on this S130 with silicone rubber..... course now that the exhaust is in I drive around with the window down as much as possible..... nothing sounds as good as that sweet note from the straight six....

Lol - been following the thread for a while now and forgot to post mine. Konig Rewinds 15x7 195/60/15 (original owner's choice - I'd have gone for 225/50/15's myself).

I think you mean 6 1/2 - you might have a hard time finding 6 1/4 I believe 5 1/4 is the stock size but 6 1/2 will fit without modification (depending on the 6 1/2 speaker and mounting holes of course - standard sizing isn't always standard). My MB Quart DKG 116 6 1/2 were a direct drop in.

PM sent

Still looking if anyone has one

I'm working hard on the mutlitude of search techniques it takes to get around here. Its either 4 useless hits or 38 pages containing the keyword - I usually give up after the 20th page and just ask. I am getting better at it though. Never knew about there not being an S130 forum in 2006.....

I've got the power resistor working in my '72 240Z. The resistor mod is for current triggered tachs - I'm not sure what the 260-280Z are. The 240Z tach is current triggered which is why you use the resistor to draw enough current to trigger the tach I mounted it all on a custom aluminum plate and painted it the same colour as the car so I can easily return it to stock if need be.

Old thread but important to note for those coming back here for info - if you are concerned about the device not being isolated from the heat sink do a simple resistance check with your ohm meter - should read very high (as in not conducting). Also remember less is more with thermal compound. Its there to fill in the microscopic scratches and flaws in the finish of the metals. There shouldn't really be any "squishing out" of the thermal compound. I do put it on both sides of the mica myself though - just very thin. If normal thermal compound isn't doing the job you need to make sure your mechanical connection is good otherwise you need a better heat sink not a better thermal paste.

Has anyone been involved with the MSIII beta testing? Any reason to wait for MSIII to come out?

I guess I made the mistake of searching the the S130 forum since I figured the pod would be specific to the S130.... sigh... thanks for the link though....

Why? We all love the Rocket Pizza Lounge! ;P

That's for a Z31 isn't it?

I've got the one from Gray's garage - its really nice and includes all the gaskets and bolts as well as a machined space to keep your vaccum line you loose when you remove your old TB. You can bolt on your fitting or blank it out - either way you retain the functionallity if you want it. Very nice and highly recomended as well as the full tutorial on the swap! http://www.graytechsoftware.com/garage/product_details.asp?title=Products&ID=1 http://www.graytechsoftware.com/garage/tbs_linkage.asp http://www.graytechsoftware.com/garage/tbs_inst_port.asp

A quick fix is to use heat shrink with meltable glue or a meltable inner jacket to make the connection water tight. It does mean that you either have to cut it off or re-heat it to disconnect the connector the next time - but then again how often do you need to do that....

I thought I saw the three gauge mounts for the driver side window pillar on MSA but I can't for the life of me find them. I also searched the site but didn't come up with anything - are they still available? Link? Thanks!

Need a MOMO steering wheel adapter for my 280ZX (3503). I guess the one I got is for the following (3507) 200SX/Turbo, 1984-92 300ZX, through 1988 Axxes 1989-On Hardbody, All Maxima, 1985-88 Pathfinder, through 1993 Pulsar NX, 1983-86 Sentra, 1983-90 Stanza, 1987-90

Awesome - thats definately gives a better view of the body kit for sure. Oh just a quick tip for ya - if you don't want to paint your screw heads for the light covers you can use a black jiffy marker to black them out. If you don't like the look you can just wipe it off with a solevent - if you do you can scuff them up, stick them in some cardboard and paint them with a rattle can....

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SP

She's slowly coming together

Can you post some pics for us?

I don't understand how people think a lens will focus (not magnify btw) light and yet a reflector will not. Its simple physics on both accounts. A reflector is perfectly capable of directing the light in a safe pattern as we have already demonstated in our pictures and as physics experiments have proven long long ago. It must, however, be properly designed and there are a lot of reflectors that are not suitable because of their beam pattern, etc, just as a projector lens must be properly designed for the same reasons. I just don't want there to be any misconception about reflectors providing a safe beam pattern but be aware that there are many that are not suitable. Personally I would tend to stay away from the cheaper plastic lens/reflector however someone may find one that is suitable so I'm not writing them off either. I understand what you are saying about spending money and getting quality but that only applies in certain situations. The whole HybridZ community is centered around the fact that the Z car is easily modifiable to get very good performance at a fraction of the price of other vehicles and modifications. Spending more money on a product doesn't automatically give you a better product. That's why its important to weigh the data and find out what the best bang for the buck is.

I'm going to have to disagree. If the bulbs were a tungsten filament, etc then moving them around all the time isn't an optimal situation however you have to remember that flicking your high beams off and on is going to be a fraction of the mechanical stress that the filament will see compared to the vibrations and bumps from driving the vehicle. Vehicle headlights are designed to be more resiliant to vibrations than say your average home 100W light bulb. Regardless an HID is an arc not a filament so there is no concern in moving the bulb in and out other than normal mechanical wear and tear. Saying that moving it will cause problems is the same as saying moving the tip of your MIG or TIG welder is a bad idea and you should move the part instead of the welding tip.....

Great tip.... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1028064#post1028064 AND he's done the shaved bumper - pretty much exactly what I want to do with my S130. I still think I like the older tail lights (series I - no stripes '79-81) better though but I'm leaning towards something like the G37 - they look mean. A larger round section towards the outside and a smaller round towards the center. The wrap around would be tricky but I like the overall look....