FricFrac

I'm assuming you got the wheel off but for future reference you loosen the nut off most of the way leaving about four or so turns on the shaft. Just reef on the wheel or rock it side to side as you pull it forward. If it comes off forcefully the nut will keep it from caving your chest in.... or get a steering wheel puller....

Right but the ECU does use the CHCT which is a thermal sensor on the cylinder head out flow side. That is a piece that get missed sometimes with a turbo swap since it just hooks into the coolant line.

Check out this spring compressor.... works with the Tokico strut tubes Datsun Mike's build thread

Definately. Here is some good reading from an R/C car manufacture but it directly relates to 1:1 scale cars. http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showfile.php?file_id=6143 and a good reference to how much each item affects handling (eg what to change first for the largest effect). http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showfile.php?file_id=2531 The R/C cars are extremely adjustable but if you are doing custom stuff things like the sub frame orientation roll centers will affect anti squat and anti dive, etc....

It's probably the switch which comes off the back of the tumbler with two screws from the back. Rock Auto has new ones for $11 each - get a spare at that price.

I had a tray made up from stainless steel then added a piece of stainless checker plate inside the tray with a bit of an air gap to further reduce heat transfer to the carbs. I used the DEI Heat Screen Radiant Matting with the Thermo-Tec Heavy Duty Spray Adhesive underneat the tray to keep heat out. I sealed the edges with a copper Prematex high temp gasket material to keep the fiberglass from fraying. I extended the tray past the velocity stacks in case there is any fuel leaking out of them. Made a huge difference from the original heat shield that came with the car. With the original aftermarket heat shield the fuel would boil out of the floats and run out of the velocity stacks and make a stinky mess. Now with the extended tray it can catch any drips but it rarely runs out at all now. First test was a 700 km run down to Canby (the loooong way taking the 101 on the west coast of WA) and I didn't have a single problem at all. Car runs great and doesn't stutter in the summer heat in traffic and I don't have to leave the garage door open half the night to air out the gasoline smell.

Interested in pics - keep us updated...

Lol I just put Swift spring in my 370Z and they are the opposite of the stock springs. They were longer and harder to compress. We had to drop the car on the front springs to get them to compress since the top section is wound to tight to get the compressor in and the more open section didn't have enough to get them to get the locking nut on the top of the strut. It was a pain to get it to line up with the hole in the strut tower but after some messing around we got er'.

Yup it's all good. Completely normal to not use a spring compressor on the rears since these are lowering coils. I've got the HPK255 in my NA right now. It's the very first performance upgrade I'd do to any S130.... I'd like to see them a little stiffer by about 50lbs in the rear as it does still squat a little more than I'd like to see.

What car?

Can I get some more detailed pics of your intercooler setup please?

Well if you love it so much you should buy it then http://www.usedvicto...-3300-_14497707

Isn't the issue going to be that the head is warped? Did you check that when you replaced the gasket?

The Melling M111 is a common turbo upgrade oil pump.... I think the Melling turbo replacement is the Melling M90 for the turbo - the M111 is the KA replacement with higher output IIRC....

I see Garrett has the GTX out in the GTX35R sizing now. Does anyone have one on order or started to play around with these?

Missed this one as well. Slownrusty and I are both running the Rota's as well but 9.5" on all four corners with no clearance issues. I'm running 235/255 and Yasin who is much braver than I is running 255/275 an they look absolutely fantastic! Love the RB-R's on the S130s... haven't seen a wheel that fits as nice yet.... Looking forward to some engine bay pictures!

I saw the car that RT built the intake for and talked to Ron about it. It's an amazing piece. IIRC Brapp made note that the stock intake runners are only 53% the area of the intake valves! The intake is a major choke point for the L28ET so you are headed down the right road for making power with the L28ET. Keep reading - you're on the right trail and there is a ton of info on here. You're going to want to look at the ECU as one of the first changes because that will be the ground work for everything you do weather it's NA or turbo. The Mega Squirt looks to be one of the best bangs for your buck when it comes to after market ECUs.

I kinda like it. Too bad the rear is so blah with the vert and all. Nice flare over the rear wheels though. Besides you just know it sounds great

It will rub at the front of the rear fender before it rubs at the top. Get a fender roller and roll it - right Yasin?

Definately read the link to Brapps post regarding L28E EFI systems. The only gains you are going to see is with the exhaust mods but it sounds like you already have that installed. If you want to stay with N/A and want to get more performance you are going to have to go with an aftermarket ECU like the Mega Squirt II or III. The best bang for your buck would be to do a turbo swap. I picked up a complete turbo swap for $500. You can use a 240SX TB and spacer, hog out the intake runners, etc and see a performance gain with the turbo setup.

Lol - the funny thing is the guy was trying to sell and when I went to check it out he had taken the wing off it I think he may have colided with a pick up truck and assimilated the front bush bumper and pickup truck wheels....

OK it took me forever to find them but here are the rest of the pictures of the car (which is local to me)

Jeff do you have a thread for the rear cross member mod? I checked on your web page and didn't see it there. I've been wondering about how the rear wheels sit in the wheel well more forward than you would think they should be and that's with the stock setting. It's an issue not just for high performance but also if you are lowering the car or putting wider wheels on. Is it safe to assume that moving the rear cross memeber is going to be less of an issue with the CV setup rather than the U-Joints that the non-turbo car uses??

I managed to find housings that are not lensed projectors but have an excellent cut off. We've got the cost down to around $175 for an HID conversion depending on where you source your parts from. If you like the bug eyed projector look Bens1088 has put in a lot of work to come up with a kit and I think most people have been happy with it so that is another option of course. There is a DIY thread over here. I've also done a thread for the S130 guys to disable the fault light for the headlights over here. Here is a picture of the HID's on my 370Z and the HID conversion on the 240Z showing that you can get excellent cut off without using projectors.

Yup - but I haven't fully installed mine in my S130 - too many other projects/cars and once I had the alarm portion installed it got put on the back shelf for the turbo swap It's very similar but I'm using the clutch pedal as the start enable for the ignition. I also have the Ignition and ACC seperate to cycle through so that the ignition isn't turned on with the ACC. I'm sure you don't want to have your ignition on while your car isn't running. I also highly recomend using the Sombra K9 car alarm in conjunction with this. The K9 is a ranged RFID car alarm system. If you have solenoids in your door you can have it automatically lock the car and disable the ignition/fuel pump as well. When you walk back up to the car it will unlock the doors and re-enable the ignition, etc. The RFID key fob has a motion sensor so when it doesn't detect movement it will automatically re-enable the alarm and turn the fob off to extend the battery life. So when it's sitting at home wherever you leave the keys the fob is disabled until you pick them up and put them in your pocket. When you are driving you are moving around enough to keep the fob enabled. It works great. Only problem I'm having right now is the S130 has power door lock - not locks That means the drive side door will lock and unlock with the key and enable the switch for the passenger side solenoid. The driver side doesn't have a solenoid that will lock or unlock the door because back then they figured you would be using the key in the driver side to unlock the door - not set up for a car alarm. I'll have to add a solenoid somehow to the driver side to lock the car. For the 240Z guys that are adding security to the cars there is a good write up somewhere about using a plate and solenoid in the door and door jam to act as a dead bolt in addition to the stock locks. Another note - the push button switch is the same as the 370Z but for whatever reason they charge more for the 370Z version - get the Altima or Maxima push start button. If you like the Red start button you can also use the GTR start button. The 370Z/Maxima/Altima is back lit and also translucent. It has an orange LED behind it but you can pull the PCB and replace the surface mount LED with whatever you want. You can also use the start button to flash with the car alarm instead of installing a seperate LED on the dash, etc. There are kits available to do this as well - I don't have the link on this computer but there was a guy I think on one of the Subby forums selling the kit. They had to tie wrap the stock smart key around the neck of the ignition switch to disable the stock car alarm for their cars - not required with this older technology. I've had people asking about a kit of course so there is intrest. The age old question of course is what will the cost be?