FricFrac

Took the engine apart so it's all sitting in bits on my buddy's garage on the bench. Took the head apart and started to give 'er some loving: The gratuitous before picture of the carbon coated chamber: After a good long cleaning: After I cleaned the combustion chamber I saw quite a bit of damage. Looks like something bounced around in all the chambers. Of course the first one I started working on was the worst and I forgot to take before pictures but you get the idea from this one: After some sweet loving she's starting to clean up. Still in the process of cleaning the chamber up but it looks like there is hope Tried to remove as little as possible but I'm not too worried about reducing the compression ratio from the small amount of material removed. Just trying to keep the chamber as clean and slick as possible to keep any hot spots to a minimum and thus prevent detonation. It will of course help with flow but reducing detonation is more important IMHO in this turbo application.

And here's my dizzy from a Z24i with the optical encoder wheel. I might be able to use the wheel as is since it has a larger slot for TDC. MS3 firmware 1.1.2 supports the Nissan CAS so we'll see if that works. If not I've got a 24-1-1 50mm optical encoder wheel we cut on the water jet that should work instead. I cut it for the L28ET but it's the same size conveniently Has the same 10 spline count as the L28ET oil pump shaft which should work in the Z22 Stock 50mm optical encoder wheel. Same size as the L28ET and VG30E dizzy. Different in that it has a larger slot for TDC whereas the L28ET are all equal size (and six instead of four slots on the second ring) The pigtail looks like it goes right into the dizzy but it's just a cover plate that holds the more common rectangular four pin connector - same as the L28ET dizzy. Nice as this makes it easier to interface to

Been done before and it's quite a bit more involved than the Z22 build. The Z22 is basically a bolt in swap for a Datsun 510. Mine is unique in that I'm keeping the Z head but converting to EFI and turbocharging.

Of course I haven't even had her towed home [my '69 510 2dr] and I'm researching engine swaps. You know the usual KA24, SR20, VG30E and ET, etc... I'm trying to get 'er running in the drive way and I'm not having a lot of luck. I rebuilt the carb not knowing what kind of shape it's in. Getting better. Find a bunch of vacuum leaks. Replace the weak coil. I'm an Electronics Eng so I pull the stock harness out of the engine bay and give 'er a rebuild. I've got all the connectors for the 240Z, etc so I was already good to go there - add some new ground wires, etc. The whole time I'm fighting with this I'm thinking how much easier it would be if I was running Mega Squirt like I just built for the 280ZXT. That's when I start thinking about building an L16 turbo with EFI (MS3). I start researching about how to make this happen. I think it would be a fun little engine and I don't need an insane build - I've got other cars that make lots of power and the L16 turbo is kinda unique as most people don't bother. I start researching EFI manifolds and figure I'm going to have to build my own. Then I start trying to figure out how I'm going to trigger the EFI. Looking into an L28ET dizzy, etc and I find out that the Z24i has an optical dizzy. It also has a hemi head with a good quench area - hmmm that's perfect for a turbo build. Greg found me a Z22 (thanks Greg!) and now I'm going down the Z22 EFI turbo road. She burns oil so now's the time for a rebuild. The tentative plans are a full gasket set, ITM hyperutectic pistons and rings (only $50 more than rings alone - seems like a no brainer), ARP head and rod bolts (good for a boosted engine and the NAPSZ seems to have an issue with the head bolts getting loose after time), and Cleavite crank and rod bearings. Once we get her cracked open we'll see if anything else needs doing but I'm trying to keep this fairly low cost. I picked up an extra oil pan (thanks Peter!) and oil pickup (thanks Hayden!) so I don't need to rip the L16 apart to build this thing. So the challenge of this beast is to get it into EFI land. I'm already part way there researching for the L16 EFI conversion. I need an EFI manifold from an early 200SX (Z20) and an optical dizzy from the later Z24i Hardbody. DatsunMike as always has been a pile of help. Posted tons of picks and pointed me in the right direction. Found a dizzy from a Z24i (thanks Sealick!) and while I was looking at a 280ZX for a good friend of mine I look down in the dirt literally and there lies a 200SX intake plenum and runners - the last piece of the puzzle (thanks Robert!) So here's the plenum and runners before the masaging begins (minus 12lbs of pine needles) Intake runners bead blasted, ported and polished Intake plenum ported to accept a 240SX 60mm throttle body. Might be a little overkill so I may have to go to a 280ZX 48mm TB for better throttle response. We'll have to see how it works out. Intake plenum with 240SX TB and an adapter plate made of 1/2" aluminum. Two screw holes are tapped into the plate to mount the TB and the other two line up with the stock mounts. Third set of holes mounts to the stock location below the TB. Cut the water inlet/outlet off the TB to reduce plumbing. Plenum and TB test fitted. TB adapter is port matched to the plenum

I'm building a Z22 from an '82 Datsun 720 pickup. They only ever came as a carbed engine in the trucks so I'm converting this to EFI and turbo charging it. This is a common block to swap over and make into a hybrid LZ22 motor using the L series head and the NAPS Z head get tossed in the garbage. I like the cross flow and hemi design and I think it will take to boost better than the L series without det. I've got a build thread going on for my '69 Datsun 510 I'm building it for over here. But I thought it would be nice to have the engine portion here for reference as an alternative 4 banger build.

OK I've finally sourced the head bolts. My local parts place wanted 4x as much for the nuts, etc with a four to six week lead time. Ordered them from Regal at Northern Auto Parts for a fraction of what the local shop wanted and 7-10 days to get them in. Working on the turbo manifold a bit. Got a heavy blanking plate cut and had made a copper gasket and had it annealed to make it soft. I'll use these to block off the wategate flange on the turbo as I'll be using a stock T3 from a 280ZX with an internal wastegate. Got an old 280ZX turbo cast downpipe and hacked off the flange. Port matched it to the T3 outlet then tapered out for a mandrel bent 2 1/2" down pipe which I'll likely flare to 3". The turbo flange is a little rounded so it looks like there is a lip but it matches up perfectly.

The main cluster is the same between the turbo and the NA. (The tri cluster is different). Is the blue (IIRC) wire coming out of the inner fender on the driver side near the ignition coil hooked up?

One thing a friend of mine pointed out - the TTT isn't a TC rod anymore. With swivels on both end there is no tension trying to hold the arm from "rolling" over so while the beefier arm will prevent deflection there is more stress on various other pieced because there is no tension on the arm itself...

Version one had some clearance issues so we'll be test fitting version two tomorow. Here's a teaser for version two:

Version one had some clearance issues so we'll be test fitting version two tomorow. Here's a teaser for version two:

No offense to the OP but the only reason I would see this being of value to anyone is if it was off the original owners car and he wanted to buy it back. If you want it for racing swapping over an S13 or S14 rear sub frame would give you modern geometry and a huge amount of upgrade options at a fraction of the price.

Get a GTR from Canada - they are way cheaper than Japan???? Strange because that's where we import them from by the container full.... but who cares about GTRs - they are a dime a dozen here. More pics of the S130

IIRC the last time I weight my stock (ish) 280ZX turbo with t-tops and AC almost a full tank of gas and my 170lbs self in the car we weighed in at 2800lbs. Hood is around 54lbs - fiberglass is around 16lbs. Bumpers are one of the major ones for weight on the 280ZX...

The only issue is using urethane bushings in the TC rods. Keep at least one of the two the stock rubber (rear) or better yet go with the TTT adjustable TC rods - they are BEEFY!

Get the turbo rear end... comes with an R200 (although the gearing may not be optimal - 3.54) and the CV setup which I believe JeffP is running 600Hp through...

That suspension on a 510 would be death - you may as well drive a fully loaded dump truck. The 510 stock suspension still has more angle than this suspension. The 510 cross member also is about 4" tall and the 280ZX is about half that or even less. Who knows - it might even be built for an 810, etc.

If that... there aren't a lot of guys racing 280ZX's and those who do will typically have slotted their rear cross members or installed hemi joints as well. There is way too much unsprung extra weight there to race that. That stuff looks HEAVY. What I find interesting is the cross member isn't angled like the stock 280ZX with the SEMI-trailing a-arms - these look like they are fully trailing. Are you sure this even bolts up to a 280ZX? There are other Datsun's this might have been built to fit into. Byron of the Datsun 510 fame built an amazing 510 adjustable rear cross member kit and is developing a 280ZX rear cross member adjustable brackets kit for $300. Prototypes should be out soon and will give you the full range of adjustment (camber and toe) with all your stock pieces all of which is more than capable and I suspect much lighter. http://www3.telus.net/byron510/meston_motorsports_003.htm Post your link on E-Bay - I'll be curious to see what it sells for.

Price?

Also it never hurts to rebuild the AFM and make sure your battery cables are in very good condition. On any new-to-me car I replace the battery cables unless they look new.

... replace the main EFI connectors with new ones then you KNOW you've got a good electrical connection. Otherwise you're polishing a turd.... Replacing the connectors also fixes the issues with keeping the AFM connector attached (missing clips, broken tabs, etc).

Picking away at the endless "little things" while I try to get the head studs squared away. Did some more porting and polishing on the exhaust manifold. I already matched the ports but I wanted to transistion and take some of the roughness of the casting out and round off any sharp edges going into the turbo flange. Cleaned it up and painted it satin black with some header paint to match the head.

Did you make sure you set the dwel for your coil and inverted on the coil output in the software?

Pull up resistor gives you a path to power the optical circuit inside the dizzy and limits the current to the optical diode inside the dizzy so you don't melt it. You can put the resistor inside the ECU.

So apparently when I was told to use the L20b ARP set on the Z22 the person was assuming I was building a LZ. The L20B studs are WAY too long for the Z22 with the stock head and they don't make a Z22 kit (or any NAPS Z kits for that matter). I think I've found a stud that will work. ARP sells these as a individual stud - M10 x1.25 x 1.50 x 109mm PN: AM 4.300-2LB so 10 of these, 10 washers and nuts should make a Z22 ARP head bolt kit Just talking with ARP to find out if they'll make a kit of these to buy direct from them or through their suppliers so I can get this thing together!

Yea the LEDs look pretty good with good lighting from the sides as well. I'm just trying to source a good electronic flasher to finish off the kit but all the one's I've found have been junk so far. The search continues.