FricFrac

The S13 rears bolt right in. You just need to take the top hat from the stocker that is a three bolt and replace the S13 two bolt top hat.

Thanks Mack - this is an often asked question from the S130 guys looking for coilovers that don't exist. Another option for adapting the S13 coil overs. I did just notice that Tech Toy Tuning has a front coilover for those who don't have the ability to fab their own up.

You tried an extension and u-joint?

Going carburated is going backwards. Move ahead and go with the turbo swap/Mega Squirt would be my suggestion. IIRC Pure Pontiac Kid is running dual SU's and drifting...

The springs on the ZX are super soft. See if you can find a set of rear Mercedes 280SL (?) springs and cut those to fit. They are significantly stiffer than the marshmallows that are in there now. If you put in urethane bushings that's great - just remember not to use them on the TC rods or only on one side of the mount per TC rod (each TC rod used two bushing). If you use urethane on both sides of the mount you will more likely than not break the TC rods. Polishing/porting the heads is free HP as in any car if you are doing it yourself. Lots of good threads here on that topic. Don't forget about the intake manifold though as that is the real choking point. Port and polish those as well since they are very restrictive in comparison to the area of the intake valve itself. Performance cam is wasted unless you have an after market ECU that will know the difference. Once you start digging into it you'll probably find the L28ET (turbo) swap is the best bang for your buck and the easiest of the motor swaps since it was made to go into your car already. Header helps - if you go down that road I would recomend getting a ceramic coated or Por-20 and header wrap. Also some sort of heat blanket on the heat sheilds goes a long way to keep heat out of the intake manifold. Single exhaust is your best bet peformance wise. Leave the dual exhaust for the V8 guys. Yours will sound better anyhow (IMHO of course) The stock intake is already a cold air intake. A gigantic cold air intake. Get a piece of three inch pipe and a 3" cone filter and you're done. Easy peasey. Welded diff - sure if you are only ever drifting the car otherwise it's just ricer. Check out swaping in an S13 LSD pumpkin since the turbo Z31 LSDs are tough/expensive to find.... Stroker - nice but to me the L28ET is more performance for less... Oh yea - and welcome to the club!

Sounds great!

Welcome to the club. Nice find BTW I'd love to see some detailed pics of your intercooler piping. Nice choice on the intercooler as well. Not sure if you know this already or not. Make sure you don't use urethane bushings on both sides of the mount for the TC rods or they will break off.

Battery power impact gun

It would be nice if there was another 17 x 9.5 -19 wheel. Right now the RBR is the ONLY wheel with that much offset - I think the RKR at -10 is the closest of anything else.

Cold chissel? I broke all mine of with an impact driver

They are the three to two but they don't have flanges - they are tied together with stainless muffler band clamps

Number one is to make sure you have a good ground. Back EMF from coils (ignition and even the solenoid in the injectors) and noise from your brushes arcing, etc can produce voltages much higher than the supply voltage of the battery. All of these can be induced back into the rest of your harness and into your ECU. A good ground starts with a decent gauge wire from the battery to the ECU - crimped and soldered. All other sensor and power grounds should all run to the same lug that the battery ground comes to near the ECU. Again this lug is crimped and soldered. In your case you have power hooked to the alternator which is a great source of noise. I would route power and definately the ECU ground back to the battery. The battery will act as a sort of buffer for noise from the alternator. A poly (etc) cap around 0.1 to 1uf, etc will filter out the higher frequency noise. A high capacitance electrolytic cap like a stereo stiffening cap isn't designed to filter noise but remove ripple. You should have a noise supression cap on the alternator itself as well (and the ignition coil). Running shielded wiring is also very important to keep noise out of your sensor wires. At the very least you should use a twisted pair with the signal and ground wires twisted together to reduce noise.

I think I have about 1.3 bazzilion projects on the go but here's an update on the MS3 harness I'm building for Slownrusty's car. This is revision 4 and what will be the final product. I managed to get the stock temp gauge integrated into the stock body harness for the S130 to keep this plug and play. I was going to try and finish this off this weekend but the 240Z tripple Mikuni rebuild project trumped this one. We're close though and I'm hoping to get this installed on my test mule and get the distributorless ignition working. This harness has the secondary coil pack harness as well.

What header is the silver coated one? It looks similar to the one on my 240Z which has a bunch of Nissan Motorsports and Nissan Comp stuff on it from 1973. I'm just not sure if the header was done at the same time as the rest of the performance mods. Thanks!

I went to the locksmith with a worn out key that worked on one driver door and ignition but not the passenger. He figured out the "numbers" with the worn down key (couldn't find the key number in the glove box or wherever the sticker normally resides) and cut one based on those numbers now the key works with the passenger door as well. Got a couple of spares as well

No sorry I just glazed over the first part and basicly repeated what you said in the second half - doh! Depends on what year your car is - 1979-1981 will be less noticable since they don't have the "european style" bumpers like the 1982-1983 cars did. The 1982-1983 had an extra piece to wrap the bumper around the body so you would probably need to trim the extra pieces a bit. I think thin bumpers would look funny on the S130. I'd try compressing or removing them all together. There are a few nice shaved rear ends around

The one with bullet connectors beside the CHTS is the Knock sensor on the turbos.

If you want to reduce the length of the stock bump just unscrew the bleed screw on the stock absorbers and you can compress the bumpers in significantly. It's part of the installation for most of the body kits that go over the front or rear bumpers....

The GM one wire is a common and cheaper upgrade....

Uh which is thicker - 10W60 or tar? As Zmanco stated the stock sender/gauge can be way out. Make sure you are measuring with a known working gauge. Once you know what your pressure is accuarately what is the pressure when you use oil designed for Earth temperatures rather than Mercury like 10W30?

The best way to run the ground would be a crimped and soldered lug from the battery to a point on the chasis near where you have the MS mounted. At that point the ground wire from the battery and all your other grounds from signal wires, shields, etc should come into the same lug crimped and soldered all together. That gives you a solid ground that is referenced to the ECU ground and limits noise. Soldering will emiminate any noise from mechanical connection movement, oxidization, etc.

+1 on that... www.xenons130.com for the schematics. The EFI harness should be plug and play. Why is your fuseable link all hacked up?

What size wheels did you get? I cut a tire and damaged the fender with 255/45/17 x 9.5 -19mm Rotas without rolling the fender. Rolled it and it's fine now....

... or even a hole punch...