240Z2NV

Just like to get experienced input on where I'd get the most 'bang-for-my-buck' to improve on an otherwise stock '95 LT1 out of a Z-28. I'll likely spend more $$ down the road, but would like to do it in $500 increments, if possible. Thanks in advance for any consideration

Using gas and non-flux wire is the preferred method, I'm told. I'm new to welding, as well, and was told that the gas cleans the welds as you go, and reduces temps.

Not a problem. Thanks for the heads-up though.

The supplier in my city (Vallejo) doesn't carry them. Would you consider ordering the set for me if I prepaid you and sent a FedEx shipping label to you? You can PM me or email me direct at suddenimpact@mindspring.com. Thanks nonetheless!

Thanks for the lead! It seems that you (guy on the street) cannot buy this stuff. They refer you to their distributor network, and they don't want to sell me the set :~(

Let me try to address as many of the questions as I can remember. The type of gun affects how quickly you move. HVLP puts out much more material than the old style guns. The standard today is Gravity Fed HVLP (cup on top). Ambient temperature, humidity, surface temperature all effect the "flash" time between coats. That is when you can shoot another coat. Generally, you want to overlap 50% on each pass. It doesn't matter if you start right to left or vice versa. Do your pass in an even motion, constant speed, constant distance from material. Then go back in opposite direction (backtrack) with an overlap of half of the pattern on the last pass, and half on 'virgin' material. Two Stage, Single Stage, and Primer all have different flow characteristics. The paint, if all urethane based will be very similar (single vs. two stage); but, clear doesn't always 'stick' as well due to the absence of pigment to bind it. Generally, you move just a little faster with the clear. Sanding prep, my best advice is to read the labels on the cans that you intend to spray, and talk to the paint supply store staff. They are the most in-the-know on what works and doesn't work, especially if they are also painters. If it is just some clerk that rings you up, forget the aforementioned. When preparing to paint color, make sure that your gun is extremely clean, spend the extra time now rather than fixing problems after the material is on the car. Make sure that there is an even layer of water on the ground where you are painting, not so much that it splashes, just evenly wetted. This will help keep dust down. Make sure that you spray Sealer on car before paint. This will save you many possible nightmares after paint is on car, some not rearing their ugly head until much later. Runs. You're either going to get runs or get 'orange peel' until you hone your skills. Solids are easier to deal with runs, metallics a little orange peel is okay. If you get orange peel, it usually involves sanding out much more surface area. Runs are pretty localized. The old-school method was to take a piece of masking tape, sticky side to car, and GENTLY touch the run. I mean G-E-N-T-L-Y. Then when paint flashes, you spray light, quick X motion over that area to 'build' it back up. May be some expert knows a more new and improved method; but, that's how I was taught (probably before you were even born ). I hope that I helped, and am happy to be corrected by anyone else who is more contemporary. Otherwise, if you have more questions PM me. Good luck!

I love it! That's EXACTLY what I've been looking for. JTR sells them; but, I'd prefer to source them from somewhere else. Additional info, PLEASE! Tried through GM Parts; but, they tend to confuse my request with a "Remote" Oil Filter Adapter, which is obviously very different. Thanks again!

I've had several suggestions to ensure a decent seal of some slightly 'buggered' Hooker 2100s on my '95 LT1. Anyone familiar with Byson Gaskets? They appear to be some sort of composite/rubberized material, highly recommended by my local muffler shop. Another recommendation came from a machine shop that looked at my 'buggered' header flanges, who said go with the best copper gaskets I can find (no brand referenced). Still another said go copper AND copper RTV. Anymore thoughts from you experts? I really don't want to scrap the headers because of a dumb mistake I made, so I'm just trying to put the most 'forgiving' gasket set-up possible on the installation to avoid leaking. Spent quite a bit of time "Searching", but didn't get much for similar issue. Thanks!

Consider me "In Line" for shafts only. Should I send a 'deposit' by Paypal?

Two different people, with slightly different applications. I am not the author of the original thread; but, came in 'late in the fourth quarter'. Just trying to understand if I should be mounting the sway bar behind the diff with my R230, and how I modify the ends as Terry spoke.

Please indulge this poor ignoramous...I just pulled an R230 assembly today to put in my '73. I intended to mount the sway bar behind the vertical supports that intersect with the moustache bar, typical application for 240s... I believe. Are the problems that you are discussing in "NASA-speak" (BlueOvalZ) related to the later style mount (in front of the diff)? If not, then I guess I can add one more headache in my hybridization... :~(

Tim, With your exceptional fabrication skills, and the apparent interest in these, and the fact that the 'Goose is finished, why not throw a dozen of them together and sell them. I'd definitely buy one, now that I came across an R230 for a screamin' deal ;~) Will also be in contact about CVs. Stan

Taurus vs. Tuarus it was the spelling demon ;~)

I wasn't sure if Modern Motorsports was still in business

Thanks Tim. At first I was convinced that they were the wrong part; but, the Felpro box shows my application in their label. The covers don't have 'tabs' but they do have a 'channel'. But, the gasket is like TWO INCHES (or more) too small (short) without stretching(?).

I'm replacing the valve cover gaskets on a '95 LT1 along with nice, new valve covers. The gaskets are Felpro rubber. They say not to use adhesive, and that they are intentionally "a little smaller than covers". So, how does one get the gaskets to stay put while being stretched, and placing the cover on at the same time? There has to be some sort of 'insider' trick, right? I can't believe I've been dicking around on such a simple part of the engine dress-up for so long!! I literally have been fussing with these damn things for like an hour!

I realize that this thread is specific to CF hoods; but, I've been planning on sourcing a JY ZXT NACA Duct and installing it on my OE 240Z hood. I bought a pneumatic flanging tool to make a 'tray' or lip for the duct/grill to lie in to avoid the piece laying ABOVE the hood. Hadn't given much thought to curvature, I just assumed that I would move it forward and backward to the best location. I remember reading somewhere on the site that an 'inlet' should really be placed forward of engine mid-point (?). I so fell in love with an orange Z someone has on their signature, and Dan Juday has pics of. It is THE perfect look that I'm trying to achieve. Don't think I have the "Benjamin's" for the CF or FG....wish I did. I suppose I will appreciate my hood more with alot of sweat, swearing and inspiration. Looking forward to seeing anyone's pics

Gosh, oh gosh, I'm just gonna pee my pants if I can't see this mysterious car Seriously, it sounds fascinating. Is this owner (oof 0001) selling? With all of the time that you have spent researching, why not publish the story somewhere? Anything to do directly or indirectly with Mr. Shelby ALWAYS gets 'ears perked up' of car enthusiasts of every genre. The Z fanatics are notably appreciative of many purist race designs..... Why are you not posting the pics here directly at a time you deem appropriate?

Depending on if you're being greedy or not , but, I'd definitley like to discuss the prospect. I've been considering the Camaro console route as opposed to the ridiculous eBay prices Z consoles get. Sometimes I'm agast at what people will pay on eBay, yet there's always a great find right around the corner!

Euro Springs are no longer available according to MSA

Here's a shot of my unmounted Centerline Tracers. They're 16x8 with 12mm offset, and one piece rotary machined aluminum (very light). Not my favorite look; but, I really wanted as close to zero offset as possible in a light wheel, and the price was right. Not likely to have them mated with rubber for quite some time, as I'm just beginning my hybrid project and have a non-rolling shell as a base. The width is a bit of a concern, as I don't plan on Coilovers, and an eight inch rim should have a 225 or wider tire...so we'll see about clearance(?).

MAS280 (mike) is the Hybrid site's Designated Hitter!! THANKS!

DavyZ, Lone Star was the user that I was told about! Tried emailing a couple of "Lone Stars" on member list and they either didn't know what I was talking about or didn't respond. It's a nightmare scrolling through 150+ pages of member names (most of which are dupes or inactive) when you've got DIAL UP. Yep, no high speed internet access where I live :~( If you know that person and can facilitate some info, and better still pics, I would be profoundly grateful ;~)

I, too, was inspired by the AC Cobra as well as a Tomohawk kit car I saw the other night. I believe that the kit car had stock 280Z hood vents 'glued' somehow into the fender at about mid-wheel height. They are very cheap and plentiful at our JYs, and I'm contemplating this application on my 240Z. My chiropractor said he saw a Z in San Diego with those Camaro Z28 fender grilles mounted in the upper plane of the fender (as on the Camaro), and that they looked nice; but, I think my idea of the 280Z hood vents is less obtrusive (i.e. cleaner). It just scares me to cut a big hole in very clean fenders! Wish I had BlueovalZs courage!!

The reason that I brought up the dash caps AS A SEPARATE ISSUE was because I had gotten some interest in my initial query. But, as you see, all too quickly the topic got off track (see "Oh, a kitty!" and "PDK Fiberglass only weighs 4 lbs., but how much is CF?"), though I was ROFLMAO. Look, I just thought if I weren't going to find out if someone actually had used a Camaro console in their Z, as I was misinformed, I could at least find out who sells the best Dash Cap without using a new thread. That's it. So, I've given up on the Camaro console thing, and I'm still hoping to find out who sells the best quality dash CAP. Thanks gang ;~)