240Z2NV

Bought a Hobart Handler175 that was reconditioned for less than $500 delivered from Tool King off of eBay. Checked with local welding shops, and they couldn't touch that price. Also, for those of you naysayers regarding reconditioned, it came with the exact same warranty period as new. I have learned over the years, that it seldom 'pays' to buy cheap tools or machinery. The off-name import stuff will be a nightmare in the event that you ever need any kind of parts or servicing. I now appreciate that "you get what you pay for" (especially in tools and equipment), and if I can't afford it, I wait til I can!

Most installers that I have seen doing glass on Zs install the stainless trim before putting glass into vehicle. Just a bit easier. I know that it is a bit too late for you now; but, for those attempting it themselves in the future, you might try putting it in first.

If this is the wrong forum, I apologize. I didn't know where else to post it. I am contemplating a 'gated' shifter plate for my T56. When I say gated, I'm thinking along the lines of those commonly seen in Ferraris and other Italian sports cars (Maserati, Lamborghini...) I think that it would be a nice touch; but, have no clue how to make the template of the pattern accurately so that I could get a piece laser cut out of aluminum. Any ideas would be great!

That could work. I REALLY appreciate the consideration!

As stated many times already...this is a truly subjective issue. No two pair of ears hear sounds (or fidelity) the same. It's the equivalent of saying which color looks the best on our cars.... That being said, I have had tremendous 'success' with Kenwood and Clarion (both of their higher end lines) for head units. Love separates, in terms of speakers, and don't believe big subs are necessary at all in cars. When some a-hole is behind me in traffic with his bass cranked up so high that MY windshield is vibrating, I want to get out of my car and beat him with a big Maglite; but, alas, can't afford any more Police 'activity' in my 'file'. Also, don't waste your money on Dynamat (again, as already stated). There are many cheaper, and equally effective options out there. Do a search here on 'Brown Bread' and 'Peel N Seal' (various spellings) to read extensive discussion. There are some outstanding commentaries on this thread regarding the technical side of 'sound'. Fidelity is not always accomplished equally with separation. In your small interior space of your Z, do you want to hear the two channels distinctly separated, or do you want to hear the fingertips moving across the frets of the guitar? Again, very personal. Most audiophiles are purests in the sense of separation, while musicians are purests in the fidelity aspect of sound reproduction. Granted, an oversimplification/generalization for brevity. Bottom line is you have to decide what is most important in YOUR listening experience. Start with what type of music do you listen to most, and at what volume? My .02

"Google" Hypercoil.......

Have you tried eBay? You can get damn near anything there, and most will ship to Canada, eh...(had to do it ).

I'm hoping to find someone driving from (or through) the metropolitan Phoenix area (specifically Mesa) heading toward northern CA (San Francisco Bay Area) anytime in the next few months. I'm interested in buying an AZ Z Cars FG Hood, and he doesn't ship. We could figure out some sort of compensation.....

I got the Sylvania Silver Stars on promotion direct from them. Won't be installing til next year, however, so I can't comment. I missed their Xenarc HID promotion; but, mas280 got them and they are NICE (noisy though). By the time I get the hybrid completed, there will probably be many HID kits out there.....

Good or bad, there is a buyer for EVERYTHING. If a seller wants to wait it out, someone will always come along that'll pay their price...it's a matter of timing in my opinion.

They will with adjustable aperture(sp.?).....it's been done before on the site.

It's $5k extra for the 'pink' engine cover

It looks as though there is a rubber 'sleeve' on the top pair. If so, where does one get those? Thanks for the pics!

Just out of curiosity, what would it take to make these "On Car" adjustable? I note that it has been emphasized that these are NOT on car adjustable; but, some of you guys are so damn good at engineering, it seems as though it should be doable.....??

Mike, Does your kit require 'cores'?

I, for one, would pay for a copy of someone's close-to-OE rendition of LED tail lights. I am even less electronically-inclined than mechanically. Good thing that I paint well Please share your final pieces....

I like the rendition alot! I saw S2000 as soon as I opened it. And it is actually considered a 'notch-back'. A 'fast-back' is what we already have in our Zs.....

I'd love to see the diagram as well..... In the meantime, thanks "Dave" for that very comprehensive 'folder' of options!! It should be made into a "Sticky", VERY useful! By the way, what is an "Arreser"? (Thread Title)

OK, so where do I find the "Gallery"? Thanks for posting pics nonetheless...

I like the Intense 6 and Malibu.....if I had a gun to my head...jk, a bit to 'shiny' for my tastes. 'Race' look that you seek is all about understated.....IMO To change your signature, click on "Profile" above...

Definitely worthy of some pics! Please!

The shell that I bought for my hybrid had some THIN subframe 'connectors' like some seen on eBay. They were crap, and you don't want to cut corners when it comes to chassis reinforcement. I welded 1"x3" channel/box steel from front to rear (subframe), and it will do ALOT for chassis strengthening. The triangulated strut tower bracing in the engine compartment will pretty much do the rest. I know guys that have just done that, run NO sway bars, have good coilovers and adjustable struts, push 400 ft./lbs. of torque, and the car handles well. Not race track well; but very well for spirited street driving. There are alot of engineering geniuses on this site, that have done some inspiring mods to their chassis and suspension. You just have to decide what YOUR limitations are: $$, time, skill....... A guy who has raced alot of Zs bought one of my shells recently, and he told me that as long as you connect the subframes WELL, and do the front triangulated bracing, you will DRAMATICALLY enhance the stiffness of the car. He went on to teach me ways to 'tie the drivetrain together' with long 'rods' connecting the diff to the transmission. The focus should be on tying the drivetrain together and stiffening the 'frame', and the body will not be a consequence. My .02

I believe that there was a thread not too long ago on this. I found out that my "R230 Q45" was really an R200 in 'R230 clothing'! If I recall, the R230 has more bolts on the cover plate (8 or 10 vs. 6?). I'm also pretty sure that Tim240Z has all of the details.... May I also suggest that you shop local junkyards before purchasing online. This diff is incredibly heavy!! The cost to ship will make it prohibitive...

Terry, Did you make adjustable TC (strut) rods, as well? I might have you confused with another member.....

http://www.autozone.com is a great resource. I printed up my 240Z schematics right off their website.