240Z2NV

240s came with full size spares...hence, the large 'tub' for the spare tire. If you go with spacers, I have a perfect set that came from Dando's Racing that I can no longer use. I was going to eBay them; but, we should be able to work something out. I'm local.

A fellow Hybrider that I know had a front set-up like that pic that was posted from 'Scumdog'. He was MISERABLE driving it on the street. He said it was so harsh with every road imperfection, that it felt 'intensified' by a hundred fold...after driving another hybrider's "Energy" bushing'd(?) car, he felt that he just pissed away some big $$. That set-up may be sweet for the track; but, for beat-up roads and highways, ill-advised.

MSA sells replacement rear valance pieces, and someone recently told me that they could be had via a "good" partsperson at Nissan (OE!!!). The FG kits were also sold through MSA; but, they are part of an "Aero" kit and don't resemble OE at all. Try ReactionResearch, as well.......

I'm almost positive that I have seen Aluminum flywheels on eBay for $105 B-I-N, in fact, I had the seller bookmarked for the longest time. I then realized that I have a LONG way to go before I need to worry about my flywheel. Check "Completed" auctions if you don't find it with a regular search...

I believe that most that have used the Toy 4x4 calipers use the S12W so that they can use vented rotors up front. You might have trouble getting the info that you request because it was an uncoventional choice. Try doing a search under "Toyota Calipers"

If that is the actual unit that you won off of eBay, it looks immaculate! Lucky man! I think that I would drive and get it to ensure that nothing happens to it in transit...and because I'm a cheapass

Man, that's a STEAL! But, what is shipping going to set you back, those Beasts are HEAVY?! You'll need to source a driveshaft from that model and use that section for your input, mated to the output flange for your particular engine.

The responses above are the very reason that I spend so much time on this site. You guys are just awesome! Cavalry(sp?) every step of the way!

I wouldn't hesitate to use RacerX either; but, I thought that he sold his shop(?). Anyway, he did VERY high end jobs...like Concours quality, Lamborghini, Bentley,.... If you want the info for the guy in Marin let me know.....

THAT'S what I'm talkin' 'bout baby!! THANK YOU!! I am trying to visualize a couple of different ideas for tail lights on my 240Z, and this was a huge help. It is very subjective, I know. The long-running thread in this forum (thirty pages, I think) wasn't as helpful as I had hoped because I don't like 98% of those pics posted (again, subjective). The criteria for my particular project is: not extremely involved fabrication (see Dan Juday), control costs (see $600 'Euro' 240Z lights), keep it simple (see stock), be slightly different without going 'juvenile'. This leaves me with continuing to search for the scarce Euro 240Z set, catching a Euro 280Z set and doing minor fabrication, or doing the 280ZXT install with moderate fabrication. I read the mention of the long, thin-banana shaped Cadillac LEDs from Sedan deVille(?), which would have been interesting, though MUCH more involved in the customization (again, Dan Juday). But, those lights are pretty 'ghetto popular', and they get snatched up immediately at the JYs. Trucks and SUVs look good with them. My wife, the computer whiz, made me a folder so I can flip back-and-forth from those three images to TRY to decide. "Sparky", you really helped me ALOT!! The tough part is making the decision before starting body/paint work. Last, I'm still hoping to 'hook up' with "1bad180SX" regarding his LED design in OE casings.

Where in Bay Area are you looking for shops? I know a shop in Marin with a stand-up owner. He and his Dad run the shop and they do better-than-average work at reasonable prices.....

"but wil sell it w/ gauges and heater panel for $500 shipped w/in the continental US." That's the only time that I wish I had a 280Z!

I've always been partial to the Talbot style 'Bullett' mirrors; but, in past Gen. 1 Zs, they have provided poor visibility. While at So CA MSA show this year I saw a guy who made an aluminum plate in the front corner of his window opening and mounted them there (i.e. "the triangle"). I plan on taking his genral idea and biulding upon it, refining, and mounting similarly. My "Bullets" are made in England, as are/were real Talbots, and I got them on eBay for less than $100 for the pair delivered. The very first pic of this thread showed a really clean, Blue 240Z. Those mirrors are Vittaloni "somethings", and used to be available at every Pep Boys, Kragen, etc. They have a nice shape; but incredibly small visual field, even smaller than my "Bullets". Last, some have used Miata power remote mirrors with good success, if you like that look. They seem very functional!

I, too think that the cradle is, at minimum, a very clever idea. Wonder how it affects ground clearance? Any issues? While I do think that it was very well thought out, I, personally, am hoping to modify Terry's (BlueOvalZ) mount 'plate' design to accomodate my R200 (Q45); but, fabrication is my absolute worst skill (along with electrical, mechanical engineering, scheduling...what did I miss?)

I just can't believe that NONE of you computer guys out there can do this.....

Most body shops make their money ("margin") on repairs, NOT complete jobs...as stated already. Production shops (Maaco, Earl Scheib, etc.) rarely sand the car at all before painting. They usually just wipe it down with a thinner or etch to soften or degloss the paint, and spray it. If (when) you get the inevitable chip, and you were to hit the chip with high pressure water like those coin operated car washes, it will blow off in sheets!! I know this.... As stated by some of you, do ALL of the prep before bringing it to them, and you have a decent chance for a finished product....UNTIL it chips, then fuhgett aboud it! (say it like a "Soprano"). Practice makes perfect, and those high volume production shops have GREAT painters! Try to talk one of them into painting it for you on the side, in maybe yours or someone else's garage. Some shops rent out "booth time", that is another option to get that painter to do it on the side. Lastly, if you have a vocational or trade school near you, one can often get really nice jobs through them because they are students and the instructor (should) see to it that it is done right. That's how I learned, MANY moons ago, and the instructor, when sober, was quite good and taught me some 'skills'.

See if MSA will provide you with some sort of written "statement of fact" regarding the value of obsolete parts.

The attached Ferrari pic is of a MUCH older production year than I was referring. I have seen the plate that I have in mind on CURRENT production models, and I truly don't believe that they are attached directly to the trans. Anyway, I was just 'fishing'. On a side note, "1Bad180SX" what's up with those LED tail lights?!

If that was a veiled offer, I REALLY appreciate it; but, I am running a T56 6 speed. Thanks though! Would love to see your results nonetheless.

Not looking very promising to date....thanks for the input so far.

Can any of your computer whizzes out there Photoshop some 280ZX (Turbo) tail lights onto the rear of a 240Z for me?! I'm trying to come up with something 'different', have read the various threads, and don't want to spend $600 on Euro lights. I bought a clean tail light assembly on eBay from a 280ZXT. It fits in the general OE area without significant mods (maybe only to trim panels); but, I was hoping to get a better look. My car is a shell on a rotisserie, so the perspective is skewed. And I don't want to start metal mods until I am certain of the look. Any assistance would be great!

Miata seats are pretty commonly used. Easy to install, fit WITHOUT hitting door, readily available, speakers in headrest, work great if not using four point (or more) harnesses. Do a search.....

To find the ones that are periodically on eBay, check "Completed" auctions, as well, to get the seller (they usually run about $60-100 plus shipping). The guy that I bought my shell from used them. They are thin; but, for a temporary 'fix'.... I did the full-blown install; but, I can see your dilemma of limited time and space. In fact, I just went out to my garage to verify, and I still have them! I was pretty careful in removing them, as I thought I could use the metal for other 'patches' that I may need down the 'road'. I will GIVE them to you, all that you need to do is cover shipping from CA 94558. Shouldn't be too much weight, however, the box will be 'odd-sized' and shippers usually 'ding' you for that.

I did my connectors while on a rotisserie. Possibly not optimum; HOWEVER, it is worth the 'risk' versus the alternative of welding while on my back!! That I will NEVER do again!

Still hoping to see a finished product....