240Z2NV

Can you post a pic of that mount set-up?

I can COMPLETELY empathize. My second 240Z I had spent an ENTIRE summer painting it. It really turned out great, especially for a garage job. The neighbor, who painted racecars said that when I get old enough (I was seventeen at the time) if I was still interested, I had a job. Anyway, the car turned out really nice. I was finishing assembling it. Putting the stereo system in it. I remember I had carpeted the tunnel, using spray adhesive to hold it to the 'diamond' vinyl. Apparently, when I arc'd the wires as I found hot leads and grounds behind the dash (I was much better at painting than electrical), there was a seemingly insignificant spark. No biggie. Well I finished the assembly, pulled the car into the garage for a detailing after the surface cooled, and went in for lunch. I'm upstairs eating soup, and I start smelling this odd burning smell. I'm walking briskly through the house to find the source. Just about the last place I checked was the garage. When I opened the door I was greeted with a big cloud of chemical-laiden smoke. I hit the garage door opener, and as the smoke billowed out of the garage, I see my 240Z interior completely I ablaze!!!! I was devastated beyond words, which is why I can so identify with how you're feeling. I still have the polaroids of the damage (this was WAY before digital cameras). I didn't even try to salvage it. Insurance raped me, and I moved on.

"Anon" is part of the 'Anonymous' signature used on craigslist...unless I missed your humor. It is pretty funny/pathetic when we half jokingly say it is probably a college grad; but, my guess is that it is just another shining example of OPEN BORDERS!

Keep looking. I have found some perfect Black (actually VERY dark grey) leather seats from a '95 300ZX on craigslist.org I was planning on using them in my 240Z hybrid; but, I really hate leather. I also just scored some 3rd generation RX-7 seats on eBay in Black cloth!! If they are nearly as good as the description, I'll likely use them. Anyway, my suggestion is keep looking. I don't personally care for the aftermarket seats too much, UNLESS you are racing or want to join the 'tuner' crowd.

Check the cfm rating of the compressor that you are using, and the requirements for your gun. Worse-comes-to-worse rent an additional 120V compressor and join them with a "T" to your gun. Don't forget water filters at gun-end of hose.

Tim mentioned the Titan guns. I have five of them. Very inexpensive, and spray surprisingly well. Garage painting ALWAYS requires alot of finish sanding anyways! They have about a half dozen tips available, as well, so you really can't miss. For the money, they're damn near disposable!! Check this supplier out for Titan, if you decide to try them. Harbor Freight has VERY limited tip selections, and they are NOT interchangeable. http://www.midwayautosupply.com/searchby.asp?txtSearch=titan&Search.x=39&Search.y=5 Otherwise, the reconditioned Sharpe sounds like the hot tip.

I'm reasonably certain that they are, in fact, vintage Hayashi Racing wheels. Should be considered very collectable!

Summit Racing sells a generic set that is very easy to adapt to your car. Inexpensive, as well.

Not hijacking (at least not intending to); but, I'm REALLY trying to get some JDM tail lights (either 240 or 260/280).....

This is one of those times that I'm really glad to be corrected. It would have been a shame to invest in this type of conversion only to end up with distorted light because of my misconception that white LEDs would be best. Glad to learn the truth......

His 'basecamp' will be Vallejo. Any of you within driving distance are welcome to come over Saturday or Sunday morning. We might be going to Sacramento with mas280 for the drags on Saturday afternoon if the weather holds out. If it doesn't, we'll just be hangin' out in the garage exchanging tall tales.... For those interested, drop me an email for directions at: handymanstan@comcast.net

Have you tried to 'google' the rims (or, better still 'froogle' them) and that will give you retailers who sell that rim. Konig Monsoon

This is like Resource Material....seventeen pages of ideas, hmmm

DCarrow The reference "FC circa '88" is a Mazda RX-7. FD3S is the last/third generation twin turbo ('93-'95). FC3S is the 'second generation', which are pretty abundant in the JYs.

The oval shaped tubing has been intriguing to me for some time. It is the stuff that stock cars (NASCAR) uses. There are several suppliers, one might do some Google searches. I had a brochure from a 'race supplier' that I grabbed at one of the races locally, and had the pages dog-earred; but, for the life of me I can't find it. For interesting side exit exhaust (which I'd NEVER do), they have 'boom tubes' if I recall correctly. Just seems that it would make the resonance in the cabin unbearable. A while back I had the local muffler shop talking about clearance solutions, and they said that they just lower the car hoist down on the tubing and make their own 'ovals'. Seems kind of 'hoaky'; but, I have seen some of the cars that they do, and their work is pretty slick. Can't comment further on their 'smash' technique because I haven't seen it. Final note: I just found the brochure... http://www.bsrproducts.com did someone mention them already?

I am far from the expert; but, thought I'd show you the courtesy of a response. It seems that you are making considerably more work for yourself trying to adapt all of the various donor vehicle parts. If your motivation is strictly cost, then you are probably heading down the right path being as you have gotten everything so inexpensively. However, you will likely end up putting new struts and springs on if you use the 300ZX pieces anyway. Seems that it would be MUCH easier to do the common upgrades to your existing components that have been done time-and-time again on this site. You can do five lug conversions easier, you can get a plastic fuel tank from a late model LS1 f-body car with all of the hoses, internals, etc and mount it as done many times by others, and you can do 'bolt-on' rear disc conversions. The caveat is that while there are easier ways to get to your 'destination', they will likely cost more...time vs. $$$. Keep reading the threads. Type in 'plastic tank' 'LS1 tank' 'IRS' 'diff' 'differential' 'five lug'..... and good luck!

How much for 'd little girl ? Me likey the 'belly bling'.........jk

AWESOME JOB!!! Man, I'm so glad to finally see a finished product! My offer still stands '180SX, I am totally inept at electrical tasks, and would happily pay for someone to do this conversion. They look perfect! I read this entire thread through many times. Never understood why people were looking for RED LEDs for their red lensed assemblies. It would be guaranteed to diminish the visible light (red bulb coating behind red plastic = double color/filter). It seems that the ONLY way to maximize the emitted light is to go with white LEDs. It may cost more; but, if you're going to do it, don't ya have to do it right?! It has been a while; but, I'm going to try to order the LEDs from that eBay source. How many total do you require for both light assemblies? I've been in touch with the seller from eBay. He doesn't have that particular deal anymore; but, he has 500 pcs of 10k mcd for $95 + shipping and 'handling' (hate that 'handling BS!). So, please advise ASAP how many lights it takes to do the entire tail light assembly. Thanks!

The panel is packed away in storage, since I'm so far away from a completion. Unfortunately, I have changed internet configurations (and computers) a few times since that hybrider helped me out, and I can't locate his emails in my archived desktop (I've looked everywhere). Go to the member search (I know, it will be tedious....but, worth it!) and search under "Brad D". He is in Canada, which will narrow it down. He is REALLY nice, if you show him that same courtesy, and does beautiful work. I had him customize mine from his original design, whereby, I eliminated the map light and made provisions for two additional 2 1/16" gauges. Hope I helped, and hope Brad doesn't get pissed if he gets flooded with requests...I'm real proud of how it turned out. I WAS going to have an original look....guess I blew that one!

Dale, that is GREAT work! Love how it turned out. I, like others posted, just don't have the balls to start cutting up abrand new Autometer. I have all of my Autometer Phantoms laid out in 'arrangement' in the spare bedroom (aka - "the parts room") just anxiously anticipating the day that I'll be putting my dash back in the 'project'. As far as the 'idiot lights', I think that I'm going to play it safe and put them on the custom aluminum heater control panel that another hybrider designed and laser cut for me (thanks Brad!). I would prefer to do it the way that you did, Dale; but, just not that courageous...

There were dual 'Trapps on one of the rollers that I bought. I threw them away, bad timing I guess. I thought that they were REALLY tacky looking (IMO). The old standard for mild performance L engines was (or is) 2.5" tube with Turbo muffler. Muffler technology has come along way, so it is likely that you can do better than the old Turbo 'can'; but, it flows well....

It sounds as though the original poster of this thread has already made his purchase; but, for those who haven't....I am going to mount dual Magnaflow mufflers (12-636) with dual resonators up front, near the X-pipe. The actual round mufflers that I am chosing are offset inlet/outlet with the hope of getting the can tucked up higher, and not having so much 'hang down' below the valance. The length is 14" and diameter is 6". The same dimensions are available in centered inlet/outlet. AND, I do NOT want a loud exhaust! Ironically, when I went to the muffler shop to pick the guy's brain, there was a 240Z on the rack, so we were able to get a very good idea of fitment for the can dimensions. I'm running duals, one on each side of the plastic GM F-body tank. But, for those with single exhaust applications, and OE fuel tank, it appears that this can will fit fine. FWIW

eBay is also another good source for used, NOS, and rebuilt racks. They DO differ from model to model (240, late 240, 260, & 280) in terms of ratios.....

Are the JTR LS1 mounts (mas280 version) available yet to go with these great headers? Prefer not to use John's cars, as mas280 version's placement is better.

Most of those body kits do NOT fit properly, and require one thing to make them right....time (in terms of the install). Clearly, the bodyshop that you chose doesn't want to spend the time required to send out a correct finished product. Rather than threatening legal action to get satisfaction, do you have a Bureau of Automotive Repairs in your state? In CA, it is a VERY effective means to get work done properly because it goes into their shop's record. Court is fine for getting a judgement. Collecting on that judgement is an entirely different story.....the end result would likely be that you would get your car back, and not pay him the balance. But, when you take it to another shop to 'fix it', you will also pay a premium for them to correct bad work. I'd suggest trying to get the shop to finish the job correctly by way of conveying how it is a 'rolling billboard' for his shop and the advertising is cheap for him (to do the job right). Or, be subtle in suggesting how many people tell their friends about bad service, who then tell their friends, and then their friends....which surely will result in lost business, is it worth it to him to do the job poorly....? edit: OOPS, just realized that you are in CA! Use the BAR out of Sacramento, request a complaint form and show it to the shop (not filled out)...