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violacleff

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Everything posted by violacleff

  1. No their aren't. But you could do the z32 swap for $1500 pretty soon. Until then, the one you got should work fine for now.
  2. Bart, spinners are definitely on the list, but not before I get some lambo doors installed. Looks like I'll save up and go OEM fiberglass/CF...Oh man more money to spend at Vildini! Actually Alex, I've been kinda jockin the wheels that were on the old L28 Z you guys used to have. I'm going to see if I can track down whoever stole it and see if he'll give 'em to me cheap! LOL No but really, I think I will go with those Rota wheels in 17" or the Hyermax primax ones that MSA have. BTW, you guys would honestly be amazed how many people compliment me on those rims. Hardcore Z and car guys don't like 'em but chicks and youngsters think they're cool. Maybe I'll just do a full Zbling them. Hmmm
  3. I also like the L88 scoop. Problem is, it's an add on and the thing is cracking really bad at the seams, needs to be rebonded/painted. This may sound stupid, but are there any visibility issues with a cowl that high?
  4. Hey guys I was wondering how you guys think my car would look with the JohnC 4" cowl hood on my car. The L88 one I have now looks like crap and I figure a blemished cf/fiberglass hood may actually be an improvement even if I don't repaint it. What say you? Please hold the comments about the wheels. I didn't put those on, and can't afford new ones.
  5. I'm interested in a set at that price. I have the msa spacer though, so the 4x100 set should work right?
  6. Reducer elbows are very hard to come by. Hoover's boys will rig you up a ghetto fabulous one, in which they slice a piece of 1.25 off a straight piece, shove it into the elbow and charge you an extra 20 bucks for the "reducer" piece.. It may be cheaper to just buy the elbow and slice the piece off one of the straight pieces you already have and do the same thing. I second the silicone vs. rubber comment. Turbohoses, ATP, and Road Race sell very good material that will endure high boost.
  7. We certainly will. And you will be sorry you ever donated me that home depot boost controller! Muhuahahah!
  8. Well Alex, It seems like that guy tried to sell it a while back, like immediately after he finished building it. I guess when it was all said in done, he missed the torque of an L motor, and realized the error of his ways LOL!!
  9. How is he making 500hp with that turbo?
  10. What turbo are you running? Good looking swap. My car's there as we speak..uh type.
  11. Helix what is the difference of hp and kw? Just curious. Petez made 360rwhp at 15psi. I don't see any reason why a GT35R would max out at 370hp.
  12. I'm running a 16" maradyne fan, with the stock 3 row radiator and it works great. I'm controlling it with my haltech.
  13. The T3/T04R looks like its up to the task, though you will need a external wg. A member here (speeder?) was making 425hp or so at 17psi. I think he may have had a 3.0L motor though. A custom header will probably be needed to get to 500hp. If you were going custom header, i'd do a full T4 like JTaylor's, but i'm concerned about your spoolup with lower than stock compression. It may look like a dyno queen.
  14. Not that it really matters, but the dsm bov sounds horrific when vented. It is just fine when recirculated though. Not sure what Promax...however u spell it is talking about. Function is important first and foremost, but just in case you were tempted to vent it, don't do it. It is an absolutely awful sound.
  15. Yeah I got an '88 turbo ecu and Maf. Whats a fair price to sell it for?
  16. I was looking at SDS, when I was shopping for stand-alones. However, I discovered that after getting everything I needed, it ended up around the same price for a haltech, which is a superior system imo (def. more features). Tec3 is another 1k or more so that's a different story. Your'e not going to need more features then what haltech has to offer. I don't include sds in that statement because it does not support datallogging, which you may need.
  17. Looks great. I love the detailed descriptions: "huge intercooler, large exhaust, larger than stock turbo, and very fast".
  18. I was told that there wouldn't be much material left in the housing. I just didn't know if it would be worth it to invest $280 in the turbo, or just put it together with the T4 housing and sell it. I'm not really sure what a used turbo of this kind, newly rebuilt would sell for. If I couldn't get that much, then maybe its worth just putting more money into this one and using it.
  19. I just talked with turbnetics as well as another machine shop, and the general concesus was that it was a bad idea to try and machine a T3 housing to fit a P-trim wheel. The machine shop said it could be done with a lot of work. Looking at $280 for the housing and machining. Is this still a good route to go? If I were to just put the .58 T4 housing on it, how much do you think I could sell the turbo? I'm thinking if I could get a few hundred for it, it would be worth it for me to just buy a new turbo (T04R).
  20. Seems like Shane ran 26psi for years without blowing his. If I remember correctly, he was also running a 125 shot of nitrous as well. I was always hoping mike on3go was going to take a stock block to its limits per some of his older posts, but he changes engine plans like underwear.
  21. Is this a good turbo for reaching a 400-425rwhp goal? I'm guessing its going to cost over $200 to get a T3 housing machined to fit the wheel. If its a good turbo, I'll keep it.
  22. Here are the measurements for the compressor. I didn't measure it myself so I hope its accurate. 84mm outside diameter 12 fins total 6 big fins - 58mm 6 small fins - 58.5mm Shop emailed it to me that way. I'm guessing 84mm inducer 58.5mm exducer.
  23. I got a question I'd like to throw out that sounds novice but oh well. From a financial standpoint, if you could get a longblock L that will support 650hp...and we all know the quality of sunbelt's work....wouldn't this be an easier way to 500-600hp than an RB, 2J, or LS? Especially since everyone says that a stock RB will run an easy 15-20k to get running good, and manual trannies will run about the same cost to hold that kind of power. All you would need is a Kick @$$ turbo and a custom header, and viola. No having to worry about custom this labor and fabrication costs, and your car being down for 2 years while you try and figure things out. And of course you still get the beautiful sound of a straight 6 L motor.
  24. I'm gonna get the compressor measured today. What a dope I am. Anyway, check back later on if you can so we can identify what I'm messing with.
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