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HybridZ

ritrebor

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Everything posted by ritrebor

  1. I use this Ebay seller and have no problems with their stuff http://stores.ebay.com/Performance-Dynamics-Speed-Shop?_rdc=1 ritrebor
  2. I just got mine from the local auto glass guy. Able to get it in a day. ritrebor
  3. Looks good. Now let's hope you never need it. Ritrebor
  4. I believe the JTR mounts the engine offset to the passenger side to clear the steering shaft, so it will be crooked to the centerline of the car if your transmission mount is centered. Ritrebor
  5. Not mine. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/4192785628.html ritrebor
  6. This might help you. Will be doing it to my car. http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Quick-disconnect_rear_mount_battery ritrebor
  7. Not mine but FYI Ebay # 130961837347 ritrebor
  8. Come to Calif. $3.89 is a bargain for reg. ritrebor
  9. You shouldn't have to do anything. Turbo 350 and 200R is the same size and use the same yoke. ritrebor
  10. Looks nice. Since you had the Autopower bar before, what didn't you like about it that you had a new one built. I ask because I have a Autopower roll bar just like your old one that I haven't installed yet. ritrebor
  11. When I did mine, cracks would show up in a few days. Redid it about a half dozen times. What I found out that worked for me is to take out all but 4 of the screws that hold the dash to the frame. Once the dash is installed, it isn't going anywhere. Hasn't cracked in 2 years now. ritrebor
  12. These are what I plan to use. Kinda pricy, but that is all I found. http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4539&parentid=0&stocknumber=14-76255 ritrebor
  13. Picked up a NOS pair with other Z parts. Anyone know that they fit? I know they were the importer for Tokico in the late 70'sand Part # is 2881501 Thanks ritrebor
  14. Redid my remote starter solonoid and switch panel attached to the rear strut tower. Panel has the starter solonoid, master power switch, and posts for charging the battery. Had to add the charging posts because it was too hard to get at the battery once the rear speaker box was in. Built the rear speaker box to hold my speakers. ritrebor
  15. Finished my exhaust. Had a problem because I put the fuelcell and battery in the back I didn't have any room for a muffler in the stock location. Originally bought 2 Flowmasters and couldn't put them anywhere under the car. Ended up going 2-1/2" pipes to a Dynomax Ultra Flo X-Muffler which has the cross over tubes inside the muffler. Dual 2-1/2" in and Dual 2-1/2" out. Just hope I have enough ground clearance. Approx 3". ritrebor
  16. Did the Toyota 4Runner vented front brake kit. Found out the spacer is different on a 240z vs a 280z. Had a 240z spacer and couldn't get the rotor on. Had to cutdown the spacer to fit. ritrebor
  17. The foam is to prevent the fuel from sloshing around in the tank. They are foam block that you put in the tank. ritrebor
  18. Mine is 23"x17"x11" Around 16 gal. ritrebor
  19. Mine wasn't cracking where the screws were. I figured it was just the general stress of it being bolted to the frame was causing the cracks. Once the dash is in the car it won't go anywhere as it is held in place by the gauges and the other pieces bolted to it, and the A pillars. ritrebor
  20. No adhesive on frame. Don't remember how many screws but there was a lot. When I reinstalled it on the frame I only used about 3 or 4 screws because I found using all the screws cracked the foam. Just used enough to hold it to the frame as once it is installed it isn't going anywhere. ritrebor
  21. When I was redoing my dash I removed the metal frame from the foam dash to work on it. Just be careful not to bend the foam as it is brittle. Be sure to remove all the screws holding the foam to the frame and it should pop out. Proceed at your own risk. lol ritrebor
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