2126
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Posts posted by 2126
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I would quess that many have had that same idea however, have you ever seen anything on a BMW that is resonably priced!!? Fine engines but you'll pay for sure and then you have to deal with the tranny ($$$) and the necessary wiring harness. It would be pretty cool though!
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There is an old saying. It goes like this...."A fool and his money soon part!!"
Come on, who in their right mind would bid on an envelope with unknown contents?
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As it was once explained to me, its not a question of "IF" you will have an accident, but only a matter of "WHEN". If you really want to learn to handle a motorcycle, get some dirt bikes so your not exposed to cars and can explore the limits of your capabilities without paying the ultimate price! Just some free advise from an old motorcycle guy, who has many many miles on and off the track. Good luck and keep the rubber side down.
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Why is that? Could it be that the glass top lack support??? Or are you just trying to stir up a bit of conversation because you're bored? Hummmmmm!
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Since I'm a curious fellow TheNeedForZ, please enlighten me on how engine RPM increases as the speed of a vehicle decreases! Some how I get the feeling you have the right ideas in your advise but I don't think your explaining them with technical correctness. Example: "The only way to practically "increase" (relatively speaking) engine braking power is to reduce the weight of the vehicle." How about inreasing the compression of the engine (practicle), or how about changing the ratio in the differential (practicle), or changing tranny gearing (practicle)? Also, I'm still curious about the value of obtaining such information, especially since the brakes are intended for slowing a car down not the engine. Just curious!!!
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i live in los angeles' date=' close to dodger stadium and close to alhambra area. i'm leaning toward a sbc or a ls1 swap? something with lots of power. i dont think i would want to rebuild the old z motor. which swap would be best suited for normal everyday street use? something that gets 20 mpg but can still kick ***? my budget would probably be around 8000? my biggest problem is i dont know where to begin with the swap, i'll probably need lots of help! so anybody wanna help me out? i'll try to reimburst you for you time and besides dont you wanna help a fellow z out?
thanks again for looking![/quote']
A word of caution! If your Z is of the 30+ years old category, there are likely other items that should be adressed before you consider stuffing in a ton-O-horsepower into your Z. To help you learn about this stuff (the other items), spend some time reading the multitude of information located right here on this site. At 19 years old you have plenty of time. If you are lacking in the basic fundimentals about cars (especially modified car with big HP) do yourself a favor and learn the basics so you will have a good foundation to work from. Like they say....You have to learn to walk before you can run. One important thing...don't get discouraged! If you do, take a break and come back to it when your feeling excited about it again. Good luck and welcome!
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Questions are always a good thing, I believe, and wouldn't it be all too boring if no questions were asked. But, I always get a chuckle when someone asks a question that's so basic, you are almost assured the person asking the question has little to no knowledge about anything mechanical in nature and even if you politely provide this person with an answer you have to wonder if they understand the answer or if they could actually exicute it by themselves. We've all seen many of these questions posted over the years. The devil in me always fights to though out some sarcastic answer, but I reframe and remember that once upon a time I was not as knowledgable as I have become (believe me, its taken over 50+ yrs and it aint over yet)....so I just write it off as free entertainment. Gotta love this site and it's members!!!
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Again......just out of curiousity, for what purpose would this information be useful for? Do you have a specific goal in sight? Do you plan to equate this info into some type of performance related issue? I credit your imagination for sure!
P.S. So what substance prompted these thoughts?
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I quess my first question would be....why? However, if you decide to calculate it out, consider the variable. Like rear tire diameter, diff ratio, tranny ratios, engine compression, car weight, aero package items, straight line or during cornering, etc., etc. As you may have already imagined there are many variables to consider. Your question is interesting, but aren't the brakes the responsible party for slowing the car down? Just curious about why you would want to know this information!!?
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Physics: Liquids can be compressed as well' date=' solids too. It just takes more pressure to compress. So I can see how visualizing a less compressable form could actualy help design the best flowing system. Just $0.02 here
Another question. Why are header collector ends considerably smaller than the pipe that they will go into? My headres were advertised as 2 1/4. But a 2 1/4 pipe is a bit bigger around than the collector's end.[/quote']
Ok, technically speaking liquids can be compressed, although the reality of it is that it is so minute that for all practical purposes it is considered non-compressible. I'm sure you are familiar with hydraulics systems!!?
To shed light on your second question about collectors...by reducing the exit size of a collector (compared to the inlet side of a collector) it basically creates a venturi. It increases the velocity of the exhaust gases to improve upon a desired scavenging of the gases. I'm sure there is more to it than that, but I'm not a thermodynamics professor. Another obvious reason for the smaller diameter is so you can attach an exhaust pipe. Why yours is sized the way it is is beyond me....maybe poor quality control?
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I really don't think you need to buy anything from MSA if you can buy it somewhere else.
PBGreg21,
I think what 240Z_Master is saying is, MSA tends to have high prices on alot of their items that with a little searching can be purchased for less from other vendors. In defense of MSA (business wise anyway), when a company carries items in stock that are generally considered low volume movers it cost the company to have them sit on their shelves. The benifit to a customer is that he doesn't have to do the leg work to find said product and it is available right now. Heres my favorite example....Item in question, the Mallory UniLite distributor. From MSA you will now pay about $600.00 for this baby. I thought this was a bit high so I did a little research (this is the leg work I was talking about) and aquired the correct part number for the distributor, then called Summit Racing with a request for price and availability. Summit's price was about $375.00 (way better price) but I had to wait a week or two before I received it. So, if you are not the inquisitive type and don't mind the extra cost, MSA is a good supplier! Just my $0.02
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I believe your idea is good for descriptive purposes however, the real difference is that gases are compressible and the liquids are not. Theres alot more to designing an effective exhaust system than most people think, but your thoughts about turbulance (restrictions) is correct.
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The Motorsport one is made by Arizona Z Car. The Nissan Comp one is different' date=' made by DP racing, and according to Nissan it is an 8 qt pan:
Jon to the rescue....outstanding! Yeh, I was thinking he might have the MSA sold unit.
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If the pan you have is like the aluminum racing pan sold by Motorsport Auto (P/N 10-2466), then it is intended to hold just 7 quarts. Check out MSA's website.
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Can't think of a reason why not! You should be fine. Just be sure to clean out the threads in the block and the threads on the head bolts themselves so you will be able to obtain the correct torque upon reassembly...this is a standard practice. Once they've been cleaned well, apply a very light film of oil on the head bolt threads, just prior to assembly.
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Just a little info to share with you all about gasoline and the different octane ratings. I received this information from a fellow named Jim Fueling (don't laugh) who was the engine wizard behind the successful Nissan IMPSA effort back when. Anyway, according to Jim gasoline has X amount of BTU capacity and infact regular gasoline has the highest BTU capacity! Here's where it gets interesting. It has to do with controlling the ignition of the fuel/air mixture. We all know the a higher compression engine generally makes more HP. Thats why we have turbos and supercharges as well. So inorder to keep the fuel/air mix from lighting off before the desired time, anti-knock (lead and what ever they use now) additives are added to prevent the unwanted detenation. Hence we have the higher octane rating intended for the higher output engine. Of course this was more applicable back in the 60's and 70's when engines were less efficient than they are now. Better combustion chamber designs, better ignition systems, and better induction systems have made engines more efficient now days and do have an effect at better controlling detenation. So, again according to Jim, theretically speaking...if an engine could be made that was 100% efficient you would not need the anti-knock additives. Is this making any sences to anyone?
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Tpysport, just for clarity purposes.....The stock L6 engines did not come stock with studs but instead used cylinder head bolts. Regarding the reuse of them.....I would say you will have no issues unless you plan to do modifications that will greatly increase combustion chamber pressures, ie; going to a turbo setup with high boost or very high compression with NA induction. Certainly, in any case, use a really good head gasket. Just my thoughts!
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Thank you all for your helpful replies.......this information definitely reduces the learning curve for me.
Tom
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How about this one......."My Z won't run, what should I do?"
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Come on guys....PLEASE!!! I would sure like to get a little feedback form someone whos been down this road! Ok, I think I'm goin to cry.
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*Extends middle finger* I'm pretty good at f**kin sh*t up!!!
Tony, I was just pulling your chain for a rise out of you! By the way, if by chance you have gotten the screw out, try running a bottom tap down the hole to unbugger the threads. If by chance the threaded hole in not a blind thread (no access from the bottom of the hole) you might try screwing the screw in from the bottom up...which may straighten out the x-threading.
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Hey, I'll bet all the top racers are standing in line waiting to get a set.....sure!!!! As was said......another bling bling WOOOOOOOO thing.
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Welcome! USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION...rule #1. Also, think beyond just your differential, regarding strength. Like....stub axles and drive axles! You will be amazed at the wealth of info on this site...."search and you shall find".
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I got a 1974 260 z for $500 it has a f54 block with flat top pistons and a p79 head and su carbs the flat top ones how much power do you think it has.
Maybe 150HP at the flywheel! I had to laugh while reading GrayZee's comment.
Mystery Envelope?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I'm sure you're right about that one!!! At least you'd have some fun burning up the cash as opposed to buying an envelope with who knows what inside!
Maybe.....just maybe this casino is behind the mystery envelope gig to begin with, in the hopes of some cheap advertising or something. Ahhh, who cares anyway!