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HybridZ

2126

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Posts posted by 2126

  1. I'll probably get chastized for the following statement, but why not buy a decent road bike....as in bicycle, and commute back and forth to work that way. Think of the bennifits.....low cost, low maintainace, it will get you into physical shape, no lines to weight in, etc., etc. If you don't live more than 30 miles from work, it could be the answer you're looking for. Plus, think of the improved performance you would gain from cycling while doing THE deed in bed with your our half...if you know what I mean!

  2. On my 1970 240Z.....regarding the rear tire/wheel setup. I have Ground Control coil-overs with 8" free length springs (as appossed to 10" springs) on struts that have been shortened 1.5". My rear wheels are 17 x 9 with 35mm offset and 235-40 x 17'' Yokohamas.

    I very carefully calculated the width of my spacers in order to center wheel without rubbing problems. My car sits pretty low and I have approximately 0.125" clearance between the wheel and the strut tube. My spacers are approx 7/8" wide. 17 x 9 wheels will work, but you may have to do some thinking and measuring ahead of time. Mind you, if I went to 245-40 x 17" tires in the rear, I believe I would have a rub problem. Hope this helps some.

  3. Well, miss Simon is entitled to her opinion, but that doesn't mean she has a clue about the problem. It's the same old story.....people get all worked up and think that outlawing handguns will make the problem go away......WRONG!!! Unfortunetly, the crooks will have no problem if this passes.....then they will be able to rob the citizens of SF without the fear of getting shot! Boy, now that makes alot of sense doen't it. Yes, only for the crooks anyway. If this dumb b_ _ ch (Mrs. Simon) would just do a little research on the statistics, she would discover that the cities with the most gun control have the highest crime rates.....duuuhhhhh! My version of gun control is.....when you can place three consecutive rounds in the same spot on the target. Now that's gun control. Oh, the ignorance these types exhibit! It a wonder they can successfully wipe their own asses!!?

     

    Join the NRA today.....help save our Constitutional Rights for our children and the future. Just remember what Hitler did back in the late 1930's and early 40's.....he took away weapons from Germany's neigboring countries under the blanket of....you won't need them, we'll protect you....then he invaded them. We all know how that episode turned out!

  4. I've also have done the electric fan upgrade. I have the thermostaticly controlled switch as well, but the fan only comes on if I have to sit in traffic an extended amount of time or when I get back from a drive, turn off the engine, and in a minute or two the fan will come on for a short while. I live in SoCal, so it's not always the coolest (temperature wise) of places. It used to be of concern at first, but the temperature never gets hot and has been working reliably for over 3 years now.

  5. I also did the 300ZX rotor/ 280ZX caliper front upgrade on my 1970. I had to have the rotors turned down to 10.55" diameter, to have proper clearance under the caliper. I'm using AXXIS Metal Master pads with S.S. brake lines. Would I call this an upgrade? Absolutely! Think about it....the 280ZX brake system was designed for a car that wieghs about 2850 lbs, uses standard pads and rubber lines. Now install this set-up on a 2300 lbs. car with the better pads and lines and you have a brake system that will woe-down your early Z way better that you might imagine. As Terry says in his write-up....these are great for a street driven car. I agree 100%!!! As for the rear, I used the 280ZXT rear calipers/ 280Z rotors. I forgot to mention....my rotors are all slotted. One detail I did on my front struts, that was not mentioned in the upgrade write-up, was....on the cast ears (on the strut)that the caliper mounts to I machined the sides, opposite the stock caliper mounting surface flat, so the spacers needed to center the caliper over the rotors would sit square. ( the 280ZX calipers require mounting to the opposite side of the cast ears that the stock calipers mount to).

  6. Well, if your engine is truely IN tune, including new fuel filters and fresh gas without water in it.....PERTRONICS has an electronic ignition assembly that installs directly into your stock distributor. With this upgrade and a good set of plugs and wires, you should experience reliable and easy starting (even in cold weather) and likely a little better performance on the top end. If I remember correctly this upgrade is under $100.00 Like most everyone on this site will tell you.....do your homework and research the subject and available options. This is exactly how alot of us learn new stuff. Hope this help you some!

  7. The interesting thing about lock sets is that most people have no clue about them. Spraying of any wet type lube (lube that stays wet) into a lock set is a no no! Sure, the lock will work better for the short term...but as previously mentioned it will collect dust and debris and ultimately turn into a grinding compond. So, if you have a lock set that has never seen a wet lubricant, the best advise is to use a dry graphite. Don't spray it into the lock, apply it to the key blade and then work the key in and out of the lock numerous times. If this is done on a regular basis (once every 6 months) you are likely to experience trouble free operation. Oh, by the way, don't forget to wipe off the excess graphite from the key blade as it's not too friendly to your closes. The above described method of lock set lubrication was MEDECO's (high end lock sets) prefered method of lock set lubrication. Of course they have revised this method since then. It must also be noted that the revision came about in a time frame when their sales were falling off drasticly. Now they recommend using a cutting oil as lubricant.....go figure!!? Maybe they think this will promote early failure of their lock sets, so the customer will have to purchase new lock sets more often. Anyway, use dry graphite.....it's the best stuff to use and is the prefered method of lock set lubrication by a vast majority of professional lock smiths (at least ones with years of experience).

  8. big-phil, I'm no expert on EFI systems but there are some basic rules that apply to all internal combustion engines. Regarding your question...fuel/air ratios and the amount of it being sucked into the engine. A stock system is designed to operate well in many conditions and meet emission standards and it's controlled by a limited computer. Also, I don't know what size TB your stock unit is but I don't think its anywhere near 60mm. But by simply adding on a large TB, with out addressing anything else, your asking for ill performance. If you intend to inlarge the intake side of the engine, you should likewise inlarge the exhaust side as well. There's more to it than that, but that's the basic idea. Sounds like some reading about overall engine design, operation, and modification are needed. Acquiring this knowledge now will save you $$$ later and you will be able to deside what you want and need to do. Hope this help you some?

  9. Let's see....power steering. Isn't that when you are heavy on the throttle, inducing an oversteer situation? Just kidding. What do you intend to install the power steering on??? Likely a Z, but knowing the year/model might help.

  10. Well, first off! You're probably not getting any responces because to answer your question completely would require writing a book. However, there is a search function, on this site, that can provide you with a wealth of knowledge if only you use it. What ever you decide to do, one thing is for sure.....it takes time and money! Spend some time going through the archieves here as you will likely discover all sorts of things you will want to do to your Z. Do some research, figure out a budget, put together a plan of action, and then get after it! You will, in time, lookback, as you are driving your refurbished Z, and be glad you did your homework before tackling your project.

  11. I used to drink domestic only...

     

    Then I had a Corona once and it made Bud taste like piss.

     

    Then I had a wicked ale and the thought of Corona made me sick...

     

    Then I tried a guiness out of the draft in a bar once and now even negro modelo tastes like watered cigarette butts in comparison.

     

    I have spoiled myself into only liking Guiness extra stout' date=' Guiness Draught, and some micro brews but only dark, dark, extra dark ones.

     

    My test now if I'm going to like a beer, put it in a clear glass and hold it up to the sun, if you can see the sun through it, it's no good. :twisted:

     

    :? But it's sad I just can't go back...[/quote']

     

    I quess it's a good thing your not into drugs......you would likely be a heroin addict by now!!! Just kidding of course! Personally, I really enjoy the dark stuff (like Guiness) but as a regular thirst quecher I'm a PACIFICO fan. I usually pay about $1.00 each when purchasing a 12 pack. Damn, I'm getting thirsty!!!

  12. I don't' date=' but I don't because of the fear of being caught, not because I think that after a beer I'm an inherently dangerous driver.

     

    I think drinking and driving is a problem, but it is also a huge revenue generator for the govt, and that's why my sister got pulled over. She did get pulled over just after the bars closed...

     

    2126, I wonder if you feel the same way about speed traps. JUST DON'T SPEED AND YOU WON'T GET A TICKET! While that is TRUE, it is also a big steaming pile of BS and the govt shouldn't be doing it.[/quote']

     

    Yah, I have to agree with you.....so, I guess it's just a matter of "If you play you play" that is if you get nabbed by the P.D.

     

    Here's a little joke for you.......I NEVER SPEED and I NEVER DRINK! Don't even believe it!!!

  13. ahyc84, just a technical note to you regarding the chroming of a structural member...ie; rollcage, rollbar, suspension components, ect!!! The process for applying chrome will make those parts more brittle and hench more likely to fail. It is not a good practice to chrome structural and safety related components...espcially on a dedicated race car! Just paint or powdercoat it and be assured of maximum strength and safety. Just my 2 cents worth.

  14. Tatsuya, I don't know the details of the bumper conversion but, I do know it's been done many times. It's advisible to search the archives for posts relating to what ever subject you are interested in. Also, if you don't find what you're looking for here, you might try going to the Classic Zcar Club website.

  15. I have to agree with Bartman! I encountered this situation when I installed my Ground Control coilovers. I went from 10" to 8" rear springs on the recommendation of GC. They told me this situation happens quite often when using wheels wider than 7" on early Z cars. I'm running 235-40 x 17" tires on 17"x 9" wheels in the rear and I have approximately 1/8" clearance between the wheel and the strut assy. The clearance at the outside is at its limit, meaning, if I went to a wider tire it would rub the inner fender under compression.

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