2126
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Posts posted by 2126
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Now that was entertaning....funny thing is, it has probably happens more times than we might suspect. Air headed _ _ _ _ _ (female dogs)!!!
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Not!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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From all that I've read and seen, when using wheel wider than 7" you are likely to encounter spacing issues. Again, take some measurements (inside of wheel to strut as well as outside of wheel to insde of fender) on your exsisting wheels to determine how much latitude you will have for wider wheels. Of course you must also know the width and offset of your exsisting wheels. You should be able to calculate for the new wheels with this info. Some more examples: A 6" wide wheel with 40mm negative offset has 4.57" back spacing. A 7" wide wheel with 40mm negative offset has 5.07" back spacing. An 8" wide wheel with 40mm negative offset has 5.57" back spacing.
Also, as you probably already know, there are adaptors made that fit the Z car bolt pattern and use the Honda bolt pattern for mounting the wheel to the adaptor.
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Just some food for thought before making a decsion on a differential oil cooler/pump setup. First you may consider installing an oil temp probe/gauge to varify if you even need a differential oil cooler/pump setup. With regards to a safe maximum operating oil temp, that may depend upon who's gear oil you are using. A visit to the manufactures website will provide you that info.
Just my 2 cents worth!
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hey' date=' those are nice wheels. Question though. 40 mm offset is almost 2". So with a 40 mm spacer do you need to replace the bolts? I am just learning about wheels as I am now looking into buying (really saving) for some. Popular wheels I have found on ebay have like a 45mm offset and have the correct lug pattern. So, with a spacer is that all that is needed to get it to be a zero offset? And if so then are the bolts long enough. I continue to pour over the old posts looking for answeres but I thought I would ask too.
Thanks as always[/quote']
Be aware that wheel offset is only in reference to the center line of a wheel. What I'm trying to say is, you could have two different width wheels, each having 0 offset, but their back spacing will be different.(back spacing is measured from the inside edge of a wheel to the mounting flange) Example: A stock 240Z wheel has 0 offset and is I believe 5" wide. If you put on a 8" wide wheel with 0 offset...somethings going to rub. If you visit some of the tire and or wheel manufacture websites, they explain this whole issue in great detail along with pictures.
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I went the route of the Terry Oxendale "Street" Upgrade....see his write-up and they're all Nissan parts. A realisticly priced up grade and more than enough for a street car. Maybe someday I'll go with the likes of....Brembo, AP, Wilwood, or something in that performance arena. By the way, I love the way my brakes perform with the Metal Master (Axxis) pads.
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Different for everyone. In my mind, if you get a silly grin on your face every time you get in, then it's the perfect car.....
I'm in agreement with Tim! Funny thing is, I get that grin just thinking about my Z let alone when I get in and drive it and that grin turns into a big smile. Maybe that explains why my face hurts after a drive.
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Thats funny.....a theme!!! I can't say I have a theme currently, but during the 2 year rebuilding period, the theme was certainly....."CASH FLOW". And I don't mean into my pocket either!!!!
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Sweet! Getting advice from experienced sources always helps. One of the areas I'm not so sure aout is using DAP as a surfacing material' date=' none of the books I've read have mentioned using products like it at all. The book I'm using as a reference mentions painting a foam mold with laytex paint to protect it from the resins in bondo, and then using bondo to build up the final surface prior to painting. It just seems to make more sense to use a product like bondo that wont attack the styrofoam to build up to a smooth surface, and skip the painting with laytex step altogether. I'm going to try some Epoxy appliance paint that I got at home depot for the final finish, after testing for compatability on scraps of foam/DAP of course. For the most part I'm trying to stick with materials that can be picked up at local stores like Wal Mart and Home Depot, the exception being the epoxy laminating resin and carbon fiber cloth. Thanks for the help,
Mike[/quote']
Well, I talked to my sailboat buddies and they said they use this stuff called "DURATEC". You can find out more info at the Revchem Plastics website or type in Duratec. Revchem calls a mold a plug! This may help when you look through their site. Good luck and keep us posted!
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Tim, the most obserd thing about this is that the vast majority of people who live there went through the same mud slide exercise less than 10 years ago! So, how many time does it take for these folk to figure out that the hill side is going to be in their homes when heavy rains come.....it's not as if they were not warned or didn't know!!! You just gotta wonder about peoples logic sometimes. We certainly have had alot of mud slides in Venuta County, along with the flooding. Thank God it's sunny today.
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Z-TARD, With all the time you're putting into the new dash mold, it would be a shame not to use the appropriate finish for making a mold. So, do a little research on the web about making molds and the materials used. I have friends that make molds for things on their sailboats and have been do this for years. I'll ask them tonight about a mold's finished surface material and let you know what I find out.
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240Zprace, Try this method and it should confirm your question. On your existing wheels, check and messure the clearances you have (inside of wheel to strut/spring as well as outside of wheel to inside of body). Now measure your existing wheel to figure out it's width and offset. Once you have figured that out, now you can calculate if the new wheels will fit. If still a little lost....reply.
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Well, without knowing much about your personal life, I'd say either you are single and or devorced, or you spend alot of time sleeping on the couch or maybe the garage...which isn't a bad idea as long as the garage has a Z in it!!! There is an old saying...."Never get into an arguement with an idiot, because they'll bring you down to their level and them whip you with experience".
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Here's a little info to clarify the bumpsteer issue on early Zs (or any car for that matter) to the uninformed..... Basically the problem is the geometrey between the front pivot arm (transverse link) and the steering rack. Ideally you want the inner pivot point on the transverse link to be in the same horizontal plain as the pivot joint on the end of the rack. In this condition, both pivoting members will have the same (very similar, anyway) travel path and not induce bumpsteer into setup. The bumpsteer occurs when the two pivoting members are at different locations, relative to the horizontal plain. When the locations are not on the same plain, they take different travel paths when the suspension moves up and down. I know this is a very general description of what is going on and does not address all the variables, but it might shed some light on the subject to thoughs who have wondered what bumpsteer is about. In stock form, the Z's pivoting members are not in the same plain.....thats production engineering for you!!! Maybe someone can add to this statement, as I am not the greatest at explaining things sometimes.
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Olie05, So, don't forget to fix your pinched headlight wiring or you may just wind up with the same problem later on, at a most inopertune time!!!
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Pusher, The LSD carrier will fit into the R200 housing, but as J. Soileau mentioned, the number of splines is at question. Count the number of splines on your half shaft input (into diff) and find out if they will match the LSD carrier. If they have the same spline count, your in business. It's likely to be 29 splines.
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What is an AAR???
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My suggestion is to go with the light flywheel now, because you have the engine out and won't have to pull the engine again to install it later. Save your $$$ and purchase the LSD later on down the road. The only plus side to my suggestion is, you will save yourself labor and maybe a fewer busted knuckles if you go with the flywheel first.
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Install it, as it will work, and get on down the road. If you've never set-up a differential before, take it to a qualified mechanic....if not you may find that you will be spending more money than you originally intended. Again, R200 carriers will work in other R200s.
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I think the funny thing is, is that for the most part, the people who probably really need to read the warning label are people who probably can't read!!! Next thing you know they will be putting warning labels on bottled water that say...." WARNING THIS BOTTLE CONTAINS WATER, IT IS WET AND HAS BEEN KNOWN TO CAUSE DEATH BY DROWNDING!"
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Loose Screws, I order to know how thick the wheel spacers need to be, you must first know the specifications of the wheels you intend to use, ie., rim width and offset or rim width and back set. According to the Ebay listing, these spacers are 2" wide (50.8mm). So, as an example.....if you use these spacers with a wheel with 50mm offset, you would have 0 offset. If the wheel had less than 50mm offset, you would reduce the backset, placing the wheel further out (increasing the track). Do a search on this site! There is bound to be info that will help explain it further. Hope this helps you a little!
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Very interesting car! I think I would be concerned about the lack of protection below the bottom frame rail...it looks like the only thing protecting your bottom (butt) is the floor pan assy. OK, it might be a CF piece, substancial enough for impact protection.
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jmortensen, Thanks for backing me up and providing the little details. I am always a little liery about here-say information and tend to listen to the manufactures that make the parts and race the parts as well.
Thanks again jmortensen
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Just a little information on installing a R200 LSD (late model 12mm bolts) into an R200 with 10mm bolts on the ring gear. I just got off the phone with Precision Gear...I placed an ordered for a R200 LSD (clutch type with 4 pinion spider) intended for the 12mm bolts. They told me that if you use spacers to take up the tolerance between the 10mm and 12mm bolt thru holes in the carrier, be sure they are not too long...infact they told me you do not need the spacers because the clamping force of the bolts is what actually holds the ring gear securely. The slight tolerance is not an issue. They said they have done many race cars in this fashion without a problem. By the way..Precision Gear's part number for the R200 LSD is #LOM59-12 ($602.95)....not bad for a new unit. Their phone number is (734) 946-0524
Hope this helps solve the issue of using spacers.
Roll Center Adjusters
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
As I understand it from my investigation into this issue, you should not require the spacers as you have already relocated the inner pivot points 1.18" (30mm) upward. Also, with your car at static ride height, it is a good that your links have a downward slope (outer end lower). If you visit Jim Cook Racing's website, they have a pretty good illustration and explaination regarding the roll center issue and using the spacers. Remember that the explaination is realtive to a Z that has not had the inner pivots relocated. Hope this helps!