2126
-
Posts
769 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by 2126
-
-
I have to agee on the front calipers being the same and somehow I think Mike was likely thinking about the rear calipers, which as you stated, have an early and a later version. When I did my conversion I looked at both and thought to myself...gawd, there's no way I would install a set of the early rear calipers on my Z, they look like some cheap stamped out parts. Also, I believe the later model rear calipers from a ZX are the same units that are from the 240SX cars...at least they look identical! Just my $0.02 worth
-
zredbaron, I believe you are correct. I think it was the 1980 models that had the oddball, used one year, 5 speed. And as you probably know already, the later model 5 speeds, like yours are a closer ratio than the pre 1980 5 speeds.
-
I'm doing the full disc conversion on my 71 Z and want to get to the right parts first time out. The front will be the 280ZX/300ZX combo and the rear will be MM kit with 240SX calipers. I live near East Coast Z Center and will pick up the 280ZX pieces there. Never been there before but going in the next day or two to check it out.
Another question' date=' is $100 for these front calipers and hangers a reasonable price?[/quote']
ezzzzzzz, by chance have you read Terry Oxandale's write up on what he refers to as the street conversion? It's basically the same direction you're taking with your Z brakes. There are some pretty good details on the exercise. You can find his literature on this site. Good luck with your effort....I've done this conversion and I've been more than satisfied with how well it works.
-
I'm running a 2800cc L6 (N42 with SU"s & headers) and the engine internally is stock (probably 8.3 to 8.5 compression ratio). My ignition setup is as follows...MSD Blaster coil, Mallory Unilite distributor (w/vac adv), Magnacore KV85 wires, and the ubiquitous NGK plugs (gapped at .040"). The thing runs like a top...from idle to max RPM. OK, you may ask what max RPM is! I don't push the L6 past...say 5500 RPM...being a relatively stock engine, theres not much more beyond 5500 rpm anyway.
Side note: I always laugh when I see MSA's price for the Mallory Unilite...around $600.00, WOW!!! You can buy the same Unilite from Summit Racing for about $375.00...much much better price!
-
I wanna get a chance to say this' date=' cuz everybody else gets a chance, i just wanna say it once. Before everyone else yells at you, look at this [url']http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?[/url] its been discussed billions of times, and thats not an exzaggeration(sp?)
YES, I GOT TO SAY IT
You gotta be quick to "getter dun"
-
Vegasguy, Briefly speaking..... PRO's: I suspect the setup you posted pretty much isolates the engine bay from the heat coming off the radiator, hence keeping the engine bay temp down. Maybe some down force is acquired!?CON's: It's going to cost you to do this modification. And even more if you are not capable of doing the required fabrication work. Just my $0.02 worth!
Looks pretty slick if you ask me...and it does look to be a similar setup to Terry's SBF Z.
-
Come on now, let's be honest...doen't MMA stand for Maximum Masterbation Assosiation??? That's what I thought! You guys in Washington sure know how to stay busy.
-
Uhhhh, OK!!?
-
Go to [url=http://phantomgrip.com]http://phantomgrip.com[/url'] they have a very reliable, yet cheap assembly, they are also on ebay for about $280.00.
Tom Tom Tom Tom.......these units are junk! The phantom grip has been discussed a number of times. Have you seen pictures of the unit......pretty whimpy looking devise if you ask me!
-
even if it did' date=' did you read the info about it? Its designed for offroading and rock crawling. Not really gonna be doing that in a Z. The breakaway torque is probably all wrong for street use. The unit is what...$450? why not give Precision Gear a call and order there Power Brute LSD unit designed for the 12mm bolt R200's for $150 more that is designed to do what you want and theres no question of fitment?
http://www.precisiongear.com/powerbrute.htm
Model #: LOM59-12[/quote']
You may want to read the info again, as it say..."on and offroad use"!!! Now wether it fits an R200 or not is another question.
-
id be more interested in tien's new adjustable suspension system, its worth a look.
Is that the one that has the threaded lower section, in addition to the normal collar adjustment for the spring. Great idea...get the piston to insert adjusted for proper travel and then be able to adjust your ride height without effecting the piston to insert relation....outstanding design. A buddy of mine just put a set on all four corners of his STI. Damn, why didn't I think of that one?
-
When I first saw this post, Need cross-threading advise, I was very curious as to the content of the post! After reading the first post I thought.....well, he certainly doesn't need any advise on cross threading, as it seems he has accomplished the task without a problem!!!
-
I came up with a really cheap way to solve the problem of a less than acceptable operating wiper motor assy.....I took the damn thing out and put it in a box!
-
wanted to bring this back.. Cronic, when you said the rings can take 400whp, is there a better ring to replace the stock ones?
I believe he said the RINGLANDS will give out at around 400RWHP.....not the rings!
-
Tim, decal looks great! So, how does one go about aquiring a couple of these bad boys? I'm sure it will make my 240 much much faster...just kidding about the go faster!
-
Clifton, I checked out the pic of your rear tire/wheel setup. Your Z sits, what looks about, 1" to 1 1/2" higher than My 240. Now I see how they would fit. On my setup, the top of the 234-40 x 17 sit abpout even with the fender opening. What rate springs are you running in the rear?
-
275/40-17. The right offset is key. You do need coil overs with 8" tall springs though.
Very interesting.....got pics? I'm currently running 235-40 x 17 on 9" wide wheels on the rear, with coilovers/ 8" springs. Struts have been shortened 1.5". I have approx 1/8" clearance between the inside edge of the wheel and the strut tube and if I put on a tire wider than 235mm I would certainly rub the inside of the rolled fender lip. Would like to see pics of your setup...maybe I'll learn something!
-
John, has anybody told you you do nice work! By the way, is that your Harley I see next to the compressor?
-
Mmm...cooked noob. Is that a dish best served broiled or fried? Or perhaps baked...decisions, decisions.
BarBeequed (like the spelling?) for me....and don't forget the Pacifico beer! I think it's a good sign, when people talk a little trash about the Hybridz site....just means we're doing it right and they're just jealous...na, na, nana, na!!!!
-
Don't they lower the pivot point by, in essence, extending the length of the bottom of the strut housing?
Terry is correct! IIRC, the real purpose for installing the bumpsteer spacers is to reposition the transverse links back to or near the original geometry...when a Z has been lowered a significant amount...and thats about it!
I'm currently hunting for a front crossmember for my 1970 so I can do the pivot point mod without having the additional down time, if I were to use the one in my Z. Anyone help me out with a spare (straight) crossmember? I may even do the adjustable ball-joint mod to the transverse links as well. Ah hell, the next thing you know I'll be doing the CV drive axle mod....only time and $.
-
Somehow I had the feeling you two guys would add to the post. You guys are always worth listening to...I always look forward to your comments.!
So, John and Terry...if I put flames on my Z will it make it faster? JUST KIDDING YOU TWO!!!!!
-
Good question! I would think that any significant data would very difficult to obtain since there are so many variables to concider! However, you would think that someone at some time had some sort of data on the rear spoiler....but then again, it may have been nothing more than seat-of-the-pants engineering. I mean, thats how all the old boys did it back then!!!
I have a 1970 and while it sits pretty low (3.75" at the front crossmember) I still felt some front end lift at speeds over say 70mph. So, I decided to use the original type spoilers as were on the old 240 race cars (BRE front air dam/432 type rear spoiler). After installing them I went for a test drive, and hot damn the Z felt much more stable at speed. It was definitely worth the investment (approx $250.00).
I'm sure someone will jump in and provide a better answer than I provided.
-
Very interesting! One think to consider is the potential of creating a hot spot by adding the groves! I'm not suggesting this groving method does not do something to the swirling of the fuel/air mixture during the compression stroke and has been believed to have decreased detenation for someone, but if the groves were done in such a way as to leave pointy areas in the combustion chamber area (pointy spots are heated easier than a relatively flat area, typically left by most professional head modifying speciaists) you may just wind up making the detenation problem worse. Hot spots do attribute to detenation. You may ask yourself if any of the top head porting folks are using this method? Also, I agree that adding the groves will certainly decreases the compression ratio. One additional thought to consider...just because someone publishes something in a magazine such as Popular Mechanics does not not make it gospel. All to many times people read articles and without question accept it as the true! Hummmmmmmmmmm!!?
-
Precision Gear makes a PowerBrute 4 Pinion Clutch-Type LSD carrier for the R200 with 12mm ring gear bolts... 603 plus shipping... Brand new..
http://www.precisiongear.com/powerbrute.htm
LOM59-12
R200 W/12MM BOLTS
ALL
29
Yep! That's the one! They work really well, doen't cost $800.00 plus, and you won't have to wait weeks and weeks to get it. These puppies are DURABLE as well. The folks at Precision Gears are true professionals. Give then a call!
More questions on CV axle conversion
in Drivetrain
Posted
Ok guys, I've been doing my homework on what fits what and who makes the adaptor flanges, etc., etc.. My question is in regards to clearance between a rear mounted 19mm (3/4") anti-rollbar (on a 240Z) and the 300ZXT CV axles or 280ZXT CV axles...which axle provides the better clearance. During my research I ran across someone that mentioned possible clearance problems with the 280ZXT axles. Also, it looks to me as though there is a greater distance between the CV joints on the 300ZXT axles than on the 280ZXT axles. My Z sits pretty low so the angle on my drive axles are less than desirable....up at the stub axle end. This is one of the reasons I want to go with the CV's since by design a CV joint is happier at angles greater than, say 4 degrees or more. Anyone want to enlighten me, who has gone through this execise. I tend to want to go with the 300ZXT CV axles.