2126
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Posts posted by 2126
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Bill, Sorry to hear about the passing of your father. Hang tough partner!
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Nismo280zED, placement of the tweeters and mids are certainly a problem in a Z. The only solution I can think of is to fabricate custom door panels, to incorperate the placement of the tweeters and mids! I've seen this done on many of the custom tuner cars out there. Sounds like alot of labor to me. Me personally, I didn't even put a stereo in my Z because of all the issues involved...and besides, who has time to mess with a stereo when your grinning from ear to ear from the sound of that sweet L6. Well, that's just my preference anyway. Good luck on your project.
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Forgot one item that Aaron mentioned......the effect of hearing sound that sounds like its coming from the center of your dash...it's refered to as stereo imagining. It's the result of a well balanced system...to be more specific, when the right channel output is identical (best case) to the left channel you will have good stereo imagining. Of course, there are many more variables to address regarding stereo imagining and to actually verify your output signals, requires some fairly exspensive gear. OK, I'll shut up now!
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Jake, nice reply to the question at hand! I had no idea the Subaru PS pack looked so much like the original Datsun rack, with the exception the the PS part. Damn, that appears to be a pretty simple conversion!
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In my own experience' date=' most of the sound below about 250Hz is quite omnidirectional, so it makes little or no difference where woofers and subwoofers are located or aimed in a vehicle. Also, very little of the music in that frequency range is in stereo, so again, it makes little difference. It does seem to a little more difference in a home theater system than in a car.
When placing and aiming midrange speaker and tweeters, you want to keep the front speakers closer to the listeners ears than the rear speakers. (If you don't, the rear speakers have to be played at a much lower volume than the front to make it sound like the band is in front of you.) You generally want to try to aim the speakers at the oposite passenger's head (ie. driver's side speakers aimed at the passenger, passenger's side aimed at the driver's head). That tends to even out the volume difference caused by being closer to one speaker than the other. According to the IASCA manual a few years ago, the effect you are looking for your car to sound like the band is playing on the center of your dash board.
Hope that helps a little.[/quote']
I have to agree with Aaron's post 100%. The only other thing I might add is....generally speaking, most interiors of cars are low volume as opposed to a room in your home or a large arena, so putting together a sound system that work well in a car is much easier (except for component space) than a room or arena with large to infinite volume. Additionally, it's advisible to to use good damping material in the construction of your speaker enclosures, to attenuate resonate frequencies. With an undamped low frequency enclosure, the energy produced from a transducer will excite the enclosure walls. The undamped enclosure walls will move like a diaphram (like a speaker cone assy) and in turn produce its own signal and interfer with the original souce of output of the transducer (speaker). These conditions can and will cause phasing problems and in sever cases actually cause cancellations in the effected frequency band. OK, if thats confusing.....just be sure you damp the enclosure...it will sound more precise and improve the dynamics. Hope this helps you out a bit?
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Definitely a nice promo video! It's always interesting how marketing adds in the sexual twist......young lady softly stroking the shift knob and steering wheel!!! Wouldn't it just be the coolest to own an original 432R? Oh yah! Nice post there clint78z.
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Brian510, Dave at Rebello is a good guy isn't he? He's always been helpful and a straight shooter with me. Boy, that's one healthy L6 you've got. Very impressive at the least. 7.5 lbs per HP is damn good! I'm going to take a quess on your RWHP.....between 275 RWHP and 285 RWHP.........just quessing!!! Boy, I can already hear your back tires crying for mercy.
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Regarding your question about harnesses....have you checked out the various harness manufactures and their websites (not the retailer's websites)? Most will have all the answers you are looking for. Basically, the best angle for your shoulder harness is 90 degrees to the seat back's vertical angle...typically straight back or parrallel to the ground. If, for example, you mounted the shoulder harness to the floor board, directly behind the seat, this would be the worst case senerio, causing unwanted down force on your shoulders under braking and especially during a front impact. Search and you shall find!!!
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This has been discussed many times on this site.....I recommend you do some searchs for additional info. You have to ask yourself what you intend to do with your Z, first off......auto-X, road course, drag race, street car or whatever. Some inserts are designed for particular applications as well as some can handle more abuse under extreme loads (high spring rates and road racing). You also have adjustable shock and ones without adjustment. But, if you want coilovers so you can run wider wheels on your Z and have the ability to adjust your ride hieght easily and intend to use your Z mostly for the street.....then even the non-adjustable Tokico's will work well. I've read that the non-adjustable Tokico shock will not handle the higher rate springs reliably. I have GC coilovers on my 240Z with 200 lbs springs on the front and 275 lbs springs on the rear, with these Tokico inserts, and have had zero problems for 3 years now. However, I mostly drive my Z on weekends but it sometimes becomes a bit spirited if you know what I mean. Anyway, as you can see there are so many variable to consider, far more than I have mentioned. Just don't get discouraged!
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Let's look at it this way, if you will, and hopefully agree that......stupid laws are created by STUPID people!!! Remember this the next time we all go to vote! Let's be rational for a moment.....one cannot expect idiots to think logically or expect them to have the capability to think at all, for that matter! I'll stop right here...thank you.
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Interesting post John! Are these claims not just another case of finger-pointers' flaring up? The typical....sensationalism based on reaction to a situation based on ZERO factual information. Sad, but isn't this the credo of the news media and their supporters now days. I should bite my tongue here, but.......sheep will follow just about any sheppard!
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Have you called Ground Control?
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YES....WE ARE MEN!!! Pretty funny. During my viewing of the boob-tube this weekend, (Discovery Channel) they were showing sporting event mishaps. One in particular involved an early Z in a rally. A photographer, positioned on the outside of a righthander, was video tapping this Z coming through a lefthander that preceeded the righthander....anyway the Z overcooked the lefthander and wound up is a nice big slide coming out of the corner. Well, the Z just kept sliding right into photographer!!! Holy crap! Fortunitely the photographer only got bumps and bruises.....the Z looked to be OK. You gotta wounder about some of those photographers!!?
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Can you say....thermodynamic lose!!! What a great engine dyno pic!
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I would recommend you post a number of good pics, as a starter, if you want to get any answers at all.
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The spacers are cheap and easy. Yes' date=' it is true that if you make them too long you could have a problem. If you make them 1/8" too short, they still do their job and there is not a problem.
I've seen diffs assembled with no spacers and seen them run just fine. On my stuff I wanted the spacers, and there are just a few reasons why.
1. The pilot on the R200 carrier, at least mine and Mat's, was NOT a press fit. Since the pilot wasn't a press fit, and the ring gear bolts are obviously 2mm too small, there really isn't as much centering the R200 as there is other diffs where the pilot is very tight and the ring gear gets beaten on with a dead blow hammer. Think of this like a wheel. If the wheel is not hub centric, then it should be lug centric.
2. I talked to another guy on classiczcars.com about this and he was advised to clock the ring gear so that it rested on the bolts. There is a reason for this. IF the bolts should come loose somehow and they were able to move 1mm before hitting the carrier, they'd be much more likely to snap than if they were already resting on the bolts. Unfortunately for guys like me that doesn't cover every situation. I do a lot of engine braking and that is stressing the ring gear in the opposite direction. With the spacer I'm covered in either situation.
3. It's cheap and easy to do.
I think that 2126 is right that the ring gear bolt spacers are NOT absolutely necessary. But for me it was $20 worth of cheap insurance. BTW--the Power Brute is by all accounts made by the same company that makes them for Nissan.[/quote']
I just thought I'd through that bit of info out for debate! Personally, I did as was talked about in statement #2....clocked the ring gear against the 10mm bolts, in the proper direction for accelloration, then loctited and torqued the bolts. One thing is interesting for sure, if in fact Precision Gear makes the POWERBRUTE for Nissan.....you gotta wonder why Nissan charges a couple of hundred dollars more than the manufacture for the same unit???
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I suppose it's a similar question of wether you drink your beer from the bottle or pour it into a mug before hand???? After it's all said and done....it tastes the same! Anybody enjoy edible panties..........? Come on, fess up! I'll bet Tim does.
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That was a great story Terry! I quess most people, like the original examiner, aren't quit sure what to do when they find themselves outside of the box!!!
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Here in SoCal we have a real problem.....can't find those snow covered parking lots very often! However, there seem to be an abundance of police officers to catch you if and when you do find one.
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Sounds like you got the lucky dog position...congrats!!!
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First of all I want to apollogize to anyone I may have offended! Yesterday after reading the post about one of our members going to jail for a firearms infraction got me so worked up....well we can see the results of that in my post. Sorry guys....I lost it!
Regarding the seats....for tall guys I would suggest using a seat with a seat cushion suspension similar to the original Z seats so you don't wind up with your head against the headliner. I believe the width of a seat is a concern in a Z as space is limited. I've read many posts that refer to the Mazda RX7 seats as being very comfortable as well, they fit in the Z. And I think they are leather. iistevo84ii....sorry to dump on you like that!
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77-79 had the same 5 speeds.
80 was an odd ball
81-83 na were the same.
the turbos had T-5's a stronger tranny than any na 280zx came with
Thanks for the correction! CRS is acting up again.
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Well done Guy!!! Pretty funny, but sadly true.
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For all who are interested.....and this is regarding the little spacers some us when installing a ring gear w/10mm bolts onto a carrier intended for 12mm bolts. OK, I know some think it really important, however if these spacers are ever so slightly too long, your ring gear will not run true. During my research on LSD (clutch type) I finally went with a unit called a POWERBRUTE manufactured by Precision Gear on the east coast. I specifically ask their set-up guy about using these spacers....he said you can use them, but in all the years and all the R200 differentials they have assembled, set-up and without a failure, he says they have never used any spacers and are not required. He told me.... think about it for a moment, the ring gear is piloted (centered) on the carrier and the torque on the bolts alone keep the ring gear from moving, so why would one want to add spacers that really do nothing? I told him that's what I thought also but just wanted to hear it from a reputable source. So, take it for what its worth....just my small contribution to the post.
Exhaust Physics
in Exhaust
Posted
Clint, Your thoughts on header wrap are correct. It's my understanding that the use of header wrap or the ceramic coated headers is to prevent temperature loss in the exhaust gases. Basically, hot gases flow faster than cooler gases, given the same flow path. Just my two cents worth.
What a great post....one of the best in a while.