Workinprogress

Reduced baseline circle? Looks smaller than even the standard height of the cam shaft portion also. Any lift numbers????

Jon, I got a decent selection in a kit from Fastenall. I usually just buy a box of 50 nuts or bolts when I have to go there for just a couple. Between the kit and the few boxes around my workbenches, I have all the fasteners I can use. Just a suggestion. Fastenall or Tacoma Screw in our part of the country.

Someone beat me to it!! You might be a gearhead if you've cleaned engine parts in a dishwasher! (rods, crank, front cover, harmonic balancer) Came out great! I then sprayed WD-40 on everything steel so it wouldnt rust.

I thought Powder coat doesnt blend like liquid paints. In my experience if you mix multiple colors, you'll just get a mosiac effect. My shop does PC for subs, and we've tried it.

Glyptal, its sold by Eastwood and you can find it on ebay, which is a link to Eastwood's ebay store. I couldnt find it anywhere else cheaper.

Engine bay looks good!! I couldnt help noticing, is there a bit of narrowing on your collector from the headers, it looks like your exhaust guy used an elbow and cut out portion to attach the common line, but it seems narrow there. Maybe just an illusion. Good work

573 brain cells.

Skullet wearing redneck

These pistons are a pain in the A$$, it turns out they are 12-15 yrs old and never have been installed. The rings are old style and I cant seem to find anyone to make good premium rings for me in this size. Either way, once they get put in I should be good to go for a strong NA motor.

I have a set of Arias forged pistons, I had them sent back to Arias due to the wrist pin holes being too small, by 2.5 thousanths. Anyway, I asked them about the proper piston to bore clearance and they guy (Elmer) asked one of his co-workers and they said for a piston size of 3.412" I should have the bore taken to 3.416". That seems very tight to me. I looked in the "How to modify" book and they dont say much about forged clearances, other than to follow the manufacture's reccomendations. This seems wrong.

Holy crap!! $500!! Is there any middle ground between cheesy possibly faulty stock dampner and these? I do know that its important, however, if you look at it, everything you put on your car is important also and we should get the best we can. But damn, 500!!

I have searched, but I cant seem to find a definite place to buy good quality aftermarket dampner (or harmonic balancer etc...) other than solid ones. Any ideas?

Is it me or does that lower shifter seem a bit high in the chassis? (this comes from someone who's never seen an LS1 conversion...) It seems it would make the shifter sit WAY high, unless you had an ultra stubby one.

GM makes yet another in a long string of bad decisions... (in this case it is the result of another bad decision, re-badging the holden)

Believe it or not, I never ran it. I did however have a 3.2" pulley (3.8 is stock I think), Borla Cat-Back, computer re-flashed (no chip, must re-program), Transmission cooler, Cold air intake, lowered and koni adjustable struts, larger front and rear sway bars, brake upgrade from an Alero of all things, etc... The thing would beat an LS1 up to 50 or so, but then would run out of breath, once the LS1 would go into 3rd it was all over. (I know this from experience, since my next car was an 02 Camaro SS.) Good luck,

Congrats on the new purchase!! I had a 99 GTP I bought off the showroom floor. I did extensive mods, then killed the tranny. Ballooned the torque converter, burnt up first and second gears. After I spent 3k on the rebuild, I sheared off the INPUT shaft to the tranny twice. Word to the wise, keep the transmission fluid from overheating. This is the weak point of the car, next being the open differential. (if you or the previous owner did any one wheel burnouts, you WILL have problems, when that happens, the carrier goes dry and will seize the spider gears to thier shaft.) That was one of my all time favorite cars, felt rock solid and was very quick off the line, I loved the HUD also. Look at gp-owners.com and grandprix.net. Very good info and boards.

Now their debating whether or not Tremclad and Rustoleum are indeed the same chemical mixtures. I read on the Rustoleum that I purchased here in the states to thin with Mineral Spirits or Acetone. There is way too much confusion on this subject. Screw this, Who's up for a trip to canada to load up on Tremclad!?!

Send this crap to Mythbusters and let them prove one way or another...

Isk, did you get it or what???

Look at the reflection below the hatch window on the rear deck http://www.geocities.com/jubbiejill/240z/rear.jpg As far as the roller job. I'm going to do two test areas on a spare fender I have here. I'll post the results and progress. Hopefully I'll be a bit quicker at that than the engine rebuild... Grant

Hey! I had dibs on that car!! Just kidding! Does that hatch have some oilcan action going on? Look at the right side near where the emblems go. Good luck! (still working on my build... now contemplating the roll-on paint job, experiments this weekend...)