Mikelly

You might find this hard to believe, but I also have that setup and it looks restrictive. Yes, that's right.. I have FIVE different cold air intake setups... Note of them are suitable for the job.

Yes, assuming you have the space under-hood. By the way, according to the tuner, the flexible hose is HORRIBLE and causes more issues than most people are aware. Mike

Mark, It is full course. I am hoping no more issues. NCChris, The Dual Snorkel air box worked great but the hood vents I installed are interfering with the size and angle of the box. So that is a no go. Mike

So here is what I did to resolve the issues with air cleaner and crank pressure when we decided to ditch the setup I had. First I bought this part number which is a smog air pump for a 1998 LS1 Camaro: Next I checked the wiring and found one ground (black), one wire to open the suction port (red), and one to spin the blower up (Orange): Then I soldered, shrinkwrapped, and made a harness with a 15 amp inline fuse for the setup. I plumbed the air-oil separators to the unit and the unit vents with a K&N breather filter: I also installed the air cleaner base/filter/top: I will get to try it all out this coming week at VIR with Chin Motorsports!

Few pics from yesterday at the dyno. This was before we did a baseline with the low profile carb hat on the motor. This is one of their customer's cars. Headlight/electrical issue. Other than the rear deck spoiler, the car was bone stock and had a recent respray... still had that "old gas" smell... Great shape for a 78!

He told me that I would be better ducting with the ram air style setup I had previously with the big sealed box and ducts to the front of the car. He also recommended ducting a custom box to an opening in the hood or something similar. I'll be selling BOTH of those Spectra Air Hats if anyone wants one! Issue there is now with the hood vents I can't use it. This is driving me closer and closer to 100% commitment in getting that LS1 built and in the car. And for those reading and wondering, this is the same dyno I've done all the tests on with this 383 stroker. 22 test runs over 3 different days between 2011-2013. Mike

The 70hp loss was with the low profile unit. No loss was with no air filter on it at all. Based on feedback from the shop owner who runs NHRA 10.5 inch class at 230mph, we are going with the least restrictive option.

Randy, I believe we'll be in C2 for chumpcar.. Mike

So yesterday I spent from 0900 until almost 1PM at EB3's Dyno. They use a Superflow Autodyn30 ( http://www.superflow.com/Dynamometers/Chassis/auto_dyn30.php ) and we did multiple tests looking at our tune with FAST. First thing we noticed is that the Air Hat and filter combo I was using was KILLING power... To the tune of 70 WHEEL HP and 80# ft. of torque.. KPA was down to 86 and our calculation showed that to be about 12inches of vacuum. This unit was choking the motor badly. Ignore the graphics in this image and just focus on the air hat and ducting. Moved to this air hat and gained 50% of the power back without doing anything other than adding additional fuel back into the mix, and by reducing our vacuum by about 4 inches: That unit sits almost and inch taller and isn't as restrictive. However, we still were losing 35HP and 40# torque from our previous baseline... And still pulling over 8 inches of vacuum. Here are the part numbers for these particular units from Spectra Products: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-9849/overview/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-98499/overview/ So what we're going to do is use the filter assembly base/Filter/lid from our old air box and let the motor draw the air in. We looked at log temps under hood at the last event (got to love the FAST system) and we didn't see air temps at speed above 100 degrees. Further testing on the dyno showed this to be the best solution for this application at the moment. During testing we had extremely high humidity and air temps in the shop were in the upper 80s. Again, with the air heating up due to the motor, temps were around 100 degrees at the inlet. While we were testing we also studied the time it takes the car to go from 2-6K rpm during the tests we did. I was floored when we saw that the above air intakes slowed that process with the worst offender by almost a second. That gang is real world performance on a roadrace car, with SECONDS being left on the table. The motor was getting choked down so badly that it simply couldn't accelerate quickly enough. This is HUGE. Figured I would share the experience and hopefully someone can learn from my mistake. This weekend while I'm at the track I am going to play around with AFRs a little and read the plugs. We have the car fat and safe in the upper 1/4 of the power band, so we are leaving a little power on the table. Half way through the first day I'll see how that is going and adjust accordingly. Mike

I just got back from 3 hours worth of dyno tuning and experimenting with induction, PCV, and afrs. We saw my latest setup kill over 60HP and 80 # ft. of torque. I moved to another air horn which was larger in volume and got half the power and torque back. I am going to get rid of both and run a base/14inch filter/top and use a vacuum pump on the Crank pressure issue and call it good. I cant see losing that much power for something like that. Mike

Went from Porsche GT3s and Twin turbos to this?!?! Is this not the ugliest car you have ever laid eyes on? It came with a truckload of parts for $1200. It came with three sets of wheels and an extra head, along with a bunch of spares... Here is the add... http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/3804525919.html Mike

Guys as the original post said. Contact me off line and I will share his information and you can contact him to discuss price and other details. I'm only trying to put him intouch with an enthusiast. Mods delete if not within the rules... Just trying to help a guy find the appropriate home for this car... This isn't a "I want X dollars for the car" kind of thing, as the owner doesn't even know what the car is worth. He is more concerned with finding someone who will bring her back to life and enjoy her. A "TRUE" Datsun enthusiast. I kinda think he was hoping I would take her, but after today, my wife may divorce me for bringing home another car... Couple of pics he had sent me a week ago asking my advice on a few things...

It is a non turbi 5 speed. I will get some of ics from the owner.

Guys, A friend of mine in the Porsche comminity is unloading his father's white 81 280ZX (coupe not 2+2) with under 70K original miles. He is located in Raleigh NC and is more interested in finding the right buyer than getting the most money out of the car. He wants an enthusiast to buy and enjoy the car and bring it back to life. I am not interested in this car other than helping him find the right person to buy the car. If you are that person, contact me offline and I will put you in touch with him. I have seen pictures of the car and it isnt in bad shape considering it was stored outside for 4 years and hasnt been driven in a long time.

Took a bunch of photos of his car but here is a quick one.. . 'Ole boy was getting it done! Mike

Sure is. We removed that filler and will be filling the cell from in the hatch. With the rear hatch closeout panel in place, you cant see how full the cell was when adding fuel. I overfilled it not knowing. So when We got home after I was done troubleshooting the fuel deliver, I removed the hose connecting the filler neck to the bail and replaced it with a traditional bail. We are going with that until I can sort out how to stop this issue.

This photo was just sent to me by Stacy King from the event at NCCAR. Might need to frame this one...

I am currently running R6s on the Zcar. I found that starting pressures at about 33 cold gets me right at 40 PSI hot. I'm at 2640-ish with front 48.5/rear 51.5 weight balance. My sizes are 274-40-18 front/ 295-35-18 rear. As keith recommended, bleed pressure off as you go. My car is lighter and that requires more cold air pressure to start with. Hope this helps. Mike

Keith, I hate dual purpose pads. They simply don't work for my personal level of driving on the track, don't give the proper feedback and are more frustration than they are worth. Your car will hit some serious speeds, so I'd recommend a dual pad approach. find a good street pad that is quiet and works well for single stops at the drags, but gives enough stopping power for autoX (low heat there, so you don't need crazy bite) and then go with a GREAT trackpad for the track. You're already swapping wheels, so swapping out pads and bleeding the brakes for a real track event should be part of the routine anyway. I like Hawk Blacks, because they're cheap, they work very well in the application i have, and they last. Mike

Heard that about Barber. VIR will bill you for armco and irreparable tire bundles. Keith, We have a track here in the Northeast called Summit Point Shenandoah circuit. Many guys who "love" Watkins Glen would refuse to run on Shenandoah. It's silly. Any track can bite and bite hard. Some tracks are far more dangerous, yet seem safer. To me, any track you can go 150mph on with plenty of run-off is going to be more dangerous than a track with lower speed and barriers lining it. Sure, you run a greater risk of damage to your car, but personal injury is of greater concern. Having been upside down in no less than 5 cars, I'd prefer to keep all four wheels on the asphalt and the car moving in the right direction. As Matt said, Drive anywhere/any track, but drive within your limits. At a DE there is no trophy. There is no "class" winner. Go, learn and have fun within the limits of your car and your wallet. Oh, and I can't stress enough... If you have a car that is fast (and yours is) you should seriously consider all the appropriate measures of safety. I'm a huge fan of the HANS device/harness/seat (They work together as a complete system), and fire proof clothing. You don't have to be the DE guy in the driving suit, but you can wear the appropriate undergarments for added safety! Mike

Jim, Kydex is easy to work with, pretty durable, can be formed with a heat gun, and isn't to expensive. It also goesn't "look" like plywood. It is the same material knife sheeths and gun holsters are made of. You can get it in a number of thickness and texter/colors. It also makes a great mold to pull fiberglass parts from. Mike

Thanks for that perspective on the suspension travel, Matt... I may buy some 8611s and see if I can make an external adjuster for the bottom strut adjuster. I also need to talk to Koni about valving and spring rates. I can see eventually going to a stiffer front spring. Mike

RSICARD, If I eventually seal up the inner fenderwells, I will not need those vents. Right now the intent is to vent trapped air caught in the inner fender behind the wheel. The hood vents I incorporated are venting the under hood pressure nicely. I re-installed the hood cowl seal and due to the fact that my front of the car is completely closed off except for the opening that feeds the air filter and the opening for the radiator ducting (My car doesn't have the stock radiator core support at all) which drives the air nicely to the engine compartment. The vents are getting a workout indeed. Jimbo, It's been my experience that the lower lip is a consumable item. I'm going to connect the lower section to the MSA airdam with expansion nuts (rubber with metal insert). I'm also going to make two spares to have on hand. The Kydex is very inexpensive and easy to work with, and isn't terribly heavy. So I really like using it for a number of applications, like this one for example! I intend to collect data on all these aero treatments when we go to the windtunnel this fall/winter. Mike

Coming together well!

Glad you bought those headers and can use them man! I'll shoot some pics of the intakes and air boxes I have for ya! Mike