Mikelly

I ran it in my LSD unit (87 R200) with no problems! Good stuff!!! Mike

I have to chime in here as well... Dan sent me a unit to test out since I am working with Mike (Locutus) on opening a web store for auto parts, and I want to carry this tool... The tool works well and is made well. I still have to clean it up and send it back, but it is bang for the buck bigtime! Two spindlepins run $60 plus shipping, and you will mess them up without a puller device like this one! $36 is a good price, and the only comment I'll make as a recommendation is to include instructions on how to use it. Dan, if you already do this, then disregard that comment, but if not, I'd recommend typing up some basic instructions, as I can see where folks would get confused in HOW to use it! Mike

Performance Machine of Alexandria... ] Mike

You think that was expensive... I quit counting the cost of the AQP fittings and line when I hit $1200.... That stuff is WAY expensive... Mike

Guy at Perfoemance Machine also said they could assemble the shortblock with studs, and have it all done right for less money to BUILD the shortblock than I would have expected... Might just let him do it, and just stab the cam in place and re-sintall my chain, roller lifters, pushrods, and upper end when I get it back at the end of the month.... Might have to buy a flywheel... Not happy about that... What is a good Internal balance 400 pattern flywheel to use with the T56??? Mike

Warning, Warning, Danger Will Robinson Danger!!! Carefull of those IDIOTS at the DMV. When I went and purchased my Antique tags for my 1974 Z, I had to make the lady behind the counter SHOW ME the policy, as she originally qouted the old ruling of driving the antique TO and FROM shows only, and for self inspection after mechanical repairs. I would go to DMVs home page, or speak to a director of DMV in your area to get the REAL truth! The counter staff isn't made up of rocket scientists by any means... Mike

I had those wheels on two different cars, and apparently that was an option by some of the dealers trying to give local aftermarket support to their customers. BBS was another popular company that dealers would work through, and I had a set of those BBS Mesh wheels in 14X8 on one of my cars...Sold them for $300 in 1992.... Mike

Dewzenal, Can you do me a favor and measure the width between your pipes at just in front of the collector?? I'm a bit concerned that my oil pan might not clear them. I don't think it will be an issue clearing the T56, because the ZF is bigger than the T56. Mike

I just finished the install of the bed liner on the underside frame rails, and both sides of the floor pans last night...Word of Caution: This stuff is DANGEROUS if breathed in. Provide P-L-E-N-T-Y of ventilation before using it... Stuff almost killed me last night...You don't realize until you get some fresh air... On the plus side, it sets up REALLY well and dries fairly quickly...Might go ahead and use some of it on my trucks BED! Anyway, it cleans up well and is not as difficult to work with as POR15. My floor pans look much better now and you can't see much of the bondo/ seam sealer with the liner coating over top of it... Nice looking stuff! I'll take pictures tomorrow night as I take pictures of the rear control arm install for the next installation of my magazine writing ventures... Next, I'll finish the plumbing of the fuel, battery and brakes by the weekend. Once that is done, I'll finish up the detail on the inside rollcage/ trunk area, and start wiring... Anybody inastalled the painless wiring harness??? I'm gonna go ahead and get the whole Kit today and just start from scratch with it! Mike

I can't wait that long...Looks like I'll be having it balanced and then re-assemble it with Pete or Jamie when I get the parts back... I won't wait until labor day... I got one of the fuel lines plumbed last night after I applied the roll on bed liner stuff, and I get all my brake lines today and will install all of them tomorrow. I'm moving along, and I'd like to have the motor back in the car by May! Mike

I'm not sure since I Haven't applied it yet. I have heard good things about it... Not sure I'll get much flex since each side of my floor pan was done in 9 sections... We'll see! Mike

That is an excellent question Van. Most of us are stuck with few header selections and the most common is obviously the shorty blockhugger. When you run the numbers for a number of these headers in DD2000 you find that shorty headers aren't costing as much HP as I had previously thought. You do lose power, but not as much as many would think. Mike

I just remembered that I get Jobber prices on stuff over at Victoria Brittish... I just ordered their steel front fender flares for my fenders for $318... I may eventually do away with the rear fiberglass units and buy the rear steel flares from them! Mike

OK, the shop Pete P. recommended is SOOOO popular that they have a 30 day minimum back log on work. Anyone in the Va/ MD/ PA/ NC area know of a reputable shop for balancing a shortblock and building it??? Mike Kelly

That is VERY Nice! Well done! I'll be installing my Dupont bedliner on the top and bottom of the pans and subframe tonight, and then starting the plumbing of the fuel lines, brake lines and Battery relocation lines! I have to finish up some structural welding on the front of the subframes (clean up the crap from the original fabricator)when I get the car home, since my brother inlaw doesn't have a 30AMp breaker for my welder...Heavy gage stuff trips his 15amp units! Oh well, minor setback, but overall my car is moving along better than I had hoped... I call the machine shop today to arrange to have the shortblock balanced and rebuilt. Mike Kelly

Javv, Grinding that cam will likely be more expensive than any cam you can buy for the current configuration you posted originally... A good cam KIT with matching springs and lifters is gonna run you $200-230. Also, add in the screw in studs, push rods, and new rockers and you will easily get into the $500 range JUST for the parts listed... However, the cam alone will be cheaper to buy than have ground. Grumpy can verify this... Mike Kelly

Also, do we know of a maker of 1 3/4 block hubbers??? How about 1 7/8th units??? Seems like we may not have enough options or there is a ton of info I am missing... Mike

Go over to Pete Paraska's web page (Linked off the site when you come in unders Personal pages) and print his sub-frame connectors blue prints. Copy those and you will have a good foundation. Also, find the thread in the "Non-Tech" board listed as "Sheetmetal work SuckS! and scroll down until you see some pics of a floor pan kit one of our members purchased from a vendor... Get those and tack them inplace ontop of the framerails You will copy from Pete! After that, look into a 6 point or 8 point cage. Torque tubes...I don't think anyone here is using one...Ticht confines under that car with a V8 and tranny... Good Luck Mike

You need to tell us what the casting numbers on the heads are. Most likely you will not get the performance out of it that you want based on the amount of money you will have to put into them... Just My opinion, but Grumpy will need the casting numbers to tell you if the heads are worth it. Mike

Andrew, did you remove the spacer due to clearance problems? Or was it because of driveline angle issues? I'm looking at going with the S&S units, but need more info... Does S&S have a website??? Mike

Guys I finally got my Rods, and the Canton pan, dipstick, and pidkup. The pan is nice, except there are no traps on the left side...The T section is 15 inches wide and the pan to floor depth is 1.5inches less than my moroso Tsump... Nice pan, and I'm actually contemplating keeping it and just welding in the two trap doors on the left side just because of the added inch of width on the 6.5 inch deep road race pan. BTW, Stay away from Racer101 over on Ebay, selling a ton of Chevy and Ford Hipo parts... The guy "lost" my 6inch rods and took three weeks to notify me... Horrible on e-mail and phone calls as well...I'll NEVER do business with him again! Off to the machine shop I go this coming week to have it all balanced and the short block built! Mike

Guys, Here is the extent that I have worked on the 240SX...Pulled it home from Connecticut... Unloaded it at my brother inlaws house. Threw a battery in it and was shocked when it actually ran. Put it on a lift and did the screw driver test with the car running on the lift in the raised and lowered position and quite frankly that has been it. Oh, and I put a set of 16 inch 5 stars my buddy gave me on it. My brother inlaw took a trip in it down the driveway and found that it actually quit knocking in a specific RPM range driving downt he driveway. I'm gonna make time for it, just trying to do about a 100 different things right now! Reason for this thread is that I need to be armed with as many clues from you guys as possible so I can just start trying stuff until I find it... I'm hoping the motor won't have to be torn down! Mike

Motor has 92,000 on it and the knocking isn't there only in a very narrow power range (Somewhere between 2-2500RPMS it goes away)... But knocks ALL THE TIME at adle... Strange, but I'll find out this weekend! Mike

Pete, according to my source, the difference was negligable. Supposedly the setup for left hand turns was not an issue for overall driving. The pans come with 6 trap doors, and they are setup to allow oil to submerge the pickup in all conditions. The comment that was made to me about the RR pan was that the T was pretty wide and may cause issues for header routing. I'd love to have a 6inch deep pan, but I think my headers are gonna hit the ground before the pan... 1 3/4 long tubes are gonna be an issue. If I get the pan in and I don't like it, I'll be sending it back! Mike

....I haven't had the time to work that issue. I'm ognna pull it into the garage over the weekend and get it on the lift and drop the starter to see if I can find anything amiss. Hopefully there will be an inspection panel on the trans for me to remove and have a look. Mike